A couple I know skipped asking their home inspector any questions. They showed up to the inspection, trailed behind the inspector for three hours, nodded along at his comments, and received a 40-page report they barely read. Two months after closing, their basement flooded. The inspector had noted “evidence of past moisture intrusion” on page 31, but never flagged it as a concern during the walkthrough. And the couple never asked what it meant.
The right questions to ask a home inspector turn a passive walkthrough into an active investigation that protects your money. A home inspection costs $350 to $600. The problems it uncovers (or fails to uncover) can cost $10,000 to $100,000+. These 15 questions help you hire the right inspector, understand what they’re checking, and know exactly what to do with the results.
Before You Hire a Home Inspector
A few smart steps before booking an inspector help you choose the right one and get the most out of the inspection.
- Ask your real estate agent for referrals, then verify independently. Agent referrals are a starting point, not a final answer. Some agents recommend inspectors who “don’t kill deals” rather than ones who are thorough. Verify credentials independently.
- Check credentials and licensing. Most states require home inspectors to be licensed. Search your state’s licensing board to verify. Also look for membership in professional associations like ASHI (American Society of Home Inspectors) or InterNACHI (International Association of Certified Home Inspectors).
- Read recent reviews. Google reviews and Yelp reviews from the past 12 months tell you more than a single referral. Look for patterns: do multiple reviewers mention thoroughness? Communication? Report clarity?
- Ask about availability and timing. In hot markets, good inspectors book up fast. Reach out within 24 hours of your accepted offer to secure a time slot within your inspection contingency window.
- Plan to attend the inspection. This is non-negotiable. The walkthrough conversation is more valuable than the written report. You’ll see issues firsthand and can ask questions on the spot.
Credentials and Qualifications
1. Are you licensed, and what certifications do you hold?
Licensing requirements vary by state, but most states now require home inspectors to be licensed. Beyond the license, look for professional certifications that indicate additional training and ongoing education.
The two most respected professional organizations are ASHI (American Society of Home Inspectors) and InterNACHI (International Association of Certified Home Inspectors). Both require continuing education and adherence to standards of practice. An ASHI-certified inspector has performed at least 250 fee-paid inspections and passed a comprehensive exam. An InterNACHI-certified professional inspector has completed extensive training and testing requirements.
A license is the minimum. Certification demonstrates commitment to the profession beyond the minimum.
2. How many inspections have you performed, and how long have you been doing this?
Experience counts. An inspector who’s performed 2,000+ inspections has seen patterns and problems that a newer inspector might miss. They’re also better at communicating findings clearly and distinguishing between cosmetic concerns and serious structural issues.
That said, newer inspectors aren’t automatically bad. Some come from construction, engineering, or trades backgrounds that give them deep technical knowledge. Ask about their professional background, not just their inspection count. A former general contractor with 500 inspections may catch more than someone with 2,000 inspections but no construction experience.
3. Do you carry errors and omissions (E&O) insurance?
Errors and omissions insurance protects you if the inspector misses something significant that costs you money. If they fail to note a major structural defect and you discover it after closing, E&O insurance provides a path to compensation.
Not all states require E&O insurance, but a professional inspector should carry it regardless. Ask for proof of coverage and the policy limits. Standard E&O policies for home inspectors range from $100,000 to $500,000 in coverage. If an inspector doesn’t carry E&O insurance, move on to the next one.
Scope and Process
4. What does your inspection cover, and what’s not included?
A standard home inspection covers: structural components (foundation, framing), exterior (siding, grading, drainage), roofing, plumbing, electrical, HVAC, insulation, ventilation, and interior components (walls, ceilings, floors, doors, windows). Inspectors follow standards of practice that define the minimum scope.
What’s not included is equally important. Standard inspections don’t cover: pest/termite damage, mold testing, radon, sewer line condition, well water quality, asbestos, lead paint, pool and spa equipment, and septic systems. These require specialized inspections by different professionals.
Ask the inspector to walk you through both lists so there are no gaps in your understanding. Some inspectors offer add-on services (radon testing, mold sampling) for additional fees, which can save you from scheduling multiple appointments.
5. How long will the inspection take?
A thorough inspection of a standard single-family home (1,500 to 2,500 square feet) takes 2.5 to 4 hours. Larger homes, older homes, and properties with additional structures (detached garage, guest house) take longer.
Be suspicious of an inspector who promises to finish in 90 minutes for a 2,200-square-foot home. Speed and thoroughness don’t go together in home inspections. Conversely, an inspection lasting 5+ hours for a standard home might indicate disorganization rather than extra care.
Ask about the expected duration and plan your schedule accordingly. You want to be present for the entire inspection, especially the summary walkthrough at the end.
6. Can I attend and follow along during the inspection?
The answer should be an enthusiastic yes. Any inspector who discourages you from attending or following along is a red flag.
The walkthrough is your chance to see issues firsthand, ask questions in real time, and understand the severity of findings. Photos in a report can’t replace standing in front of a crack in the foundation while the inspector explains what it means and whether it’s a concern.
Bring a notebook and your phone for photos. Follow the inspector through every room, every crawlspace access they open, and every system they test. Ask questions as they go. A good inspector welcomes your curiosity and explains findings in plain language.
Report and Findings
7. What format is your report, and when will I receive it?
Modern inspectors deliver digital reports with photos, descriptions, and severity ratings for each finding. The report should arrive within 24 hours of the inspection, because your inspection contingency window is ticking.
Ask to see a sample report before hiring. A good report includes: a summary of major findings at the top, detailed descriptions with photos for each issue, severity categorization (safety concern, major defect, minor maintenance item), and recommendations for further evaluation by specialists where needed.
Avoid inspectors who provide handwritten checklists or verbal-only summaries. You need a documented, shareable report that your agent can use in negotiations and that you can reference for years.
8. How do you categorize the severity of issues you find?
Not every finding is a deal-breaker, and a good inspector helps you understand the difference. Look for inspectors who categorize findings into tiers:
Safety hazards: Issues that pose immediate risk (exposed wiring, gas leaks, missing handrails, fire hazards). These need immediate attention.
Major defects: Significant problems requiring expensive repair or affecting the home’s structural integrity (foundation cracks, roof replacement, faulty electrical panel, major plumbing issues). These are your negotiation items.
Minor defects: Issues that need attention but aren’t urgent or expensive (loose outlet cover, minor grading issue, sticking window). These are normal maintenance items.
Maintenance recommendations: Not defects, just reminders (clean gutters, service HVAC, trim tree branches near roof). Every home has these.
An inspector who calls everything a “major concern” creates unnecessary panic. One who downplays everything gives you false confidence. You want nuanced, honest categorization.
9. Will you walk me through the findings after the inspection?
The post-inspection summary walkthrough is arguably the most valuable part of the entire process. This is when the inspector consolidates their findings, highlights the most important issues, and answers your questions.
A good walkthrough takes 20 to 30 minutes and covers: the big-picture condition of the home, the top 3 to 5 most significant findings, items that need further evaluation by specialists, and their honest opinion of the home’s overall condition.
Ask your questions during this walkthrough. “How serious is this?” “What would repair cost roughly?” “Is this a deal-breaker or a negotiation item?” “Would you buy this home?” That last question isn’t binding, but the answer is illuminating.
Deal-Breakers and Negotiations
10. What would you consider deal-breakers in a home inspection?
Experienced inspectors have seen thousands of homes and have a strong sense of which problems are fixable and which are money pits. While they can’t make your buying decision for you, they can tell you which findings should give you serious pause.
Common deal-breaker territory includes: major foundation problems ($10,000 to $50,000+ to repair), failing or inadequate electrical systems ($5,000 to $25,000), active termite damage with structural compromise, environmental hazards (mold throughout the structure, asbestos in poor condition), serious water intrusion with no clear source or solution, and roof systems at end-of-life with water damage to the structure below.
No single finding automatically kills a deal. But a combination of three or four major issues often indicates a home that will drain your savings faster than you can fill it. Ask the inspector for their candid assessment of the overall picture, not just individual findings.
11. Which findings should I use as negotiation points with the seller?
Your inspector isn’t a negotiator, but they can help you prioritize which findings have the most financial impact. Focus negotiations on:
Safety hazards that must be addressed (code violations, gas leaks, faulty wiring). Major systems nearing end-of-life (roof, HVAC, water heater). Structural issues (foundation, framing damage). Water intrusion problems. Code violations that affect insurability or livability.
Don’t bother negotiating cosmetic issues, normal wear items, or minor maintenance tasks. Asking for a $200 credit for a dripping faucet weakens your position when you’re also asking for $8,000 off for a roof replacement.
A typical approach: request that the seller repair safety hazards, then negotiate a price reduction or credit for major defects based on estimated repair costs. Your agent handles the actual negotiation, but the inspector’s findings are the foundation.
Specialized Inspections
12. Do I need any additional specialized inspections?
Your general inspector will often recommend specialized inspections based on what they observe and the home’s characteristics. Common recommendations include:
- Termite/pest inspection ($75 to $200): Recommended for all homes, required in some states.
- Radon testing ($125 to $250): Recommended everywhere, especially in areas with known radon risk. Radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer.
- Sewer line scope ($150 to $300): Strongly recommended for homes over 30 years old. Replacing a sewer line costs $5,000 to $20,000.
- Mold testing ($300 to $600): If the inspector sees signs of moisture damage or visible mold.
- Septic inspection ($300 to $600): Required if the home uses a septic system. Replacing a septic system costs $15,000 to $30,000.
- Well water testing ($100 to $300): Required if the home uses well water.
- Structural engineer assessment ($300 to $800): If the inspector notes foundation concerns that require expert evaluation.
The general inspection identifies where to look deeper. Specialized inspections provide definitive answers. Skipping a $200 sewer scope to save money on a $350,000 purchase is penny-wise and pound-foolish.
13. What should I be most concerned about given this home’s age and type?
Different eras of construction have different common problems. A knowledgeable inspector tailors their attention based on the home’s age:
Pre-1950: Knob-and-tube wiring, lead paint, galvanized plumbing (corrodes internally), asbestos in various materials, foundation deterioration, outdated electrical capacity.
1950s to 1970s: Aluminum wiring (fire risk), polybutylene plumbing (prone to failure), Federal Pacific or Zinsco electrical panels (fire hazard), asbestos floor tiles and insulation.
1980s to 2000s: Polybutylene plumbing (installed through mid-1990s), EIFS/synthetic stucco moisture issues, LP siding (absorbs moisture), inadequate roof ventilation.
2000s to present: Fewer systemic issues, but watch for builder shortcuts, improperly installed flashing, and HVAC systems sized incorrectly for the home.
Ask the inspector what era-specific issues they’ll be watching for. Their answer tells you whether they’re running a generic checklist or bringing real expertise to your specific property.
After the Inspection
14. Are you available for follow-up questions after I read the report?
A good inspector makes themselves available for a reasonable period after delivering the report. You’ll inevitably have questions once you’ve read through the full document, and some of those questions need answers before your inspection contingency deadline.
Most inspectors include one follow-up call or email exchange in their fee. Some offer ongoing availability for the life of your ownership. Ask about their policy before hiring, and don’t hesitate to call when you need clarification. A finding that seems minor in the report might become more concerning once you research it, and vice versa.
15. If I move forward with the purchase, what maintenance should I prioritize in the first year?
This question transforms the inspection from a pass/fail exercise into a maintenance roadmap. Even in a home with no deal-breakers, there are always items that need attention in the first 6 to 12 months.
Ask the inspector to rank their minor findings by urgency. Which items need attention within 30 days? Within 6 months? Within a year? This prioritized list prevents you from spending money on low-priority items while ignoring things that could cause bigger problems if left unaddressed.
Common first-year priorities include: servicing the HVAC system, cleaning gutters and extending downspouts, sealing gaps around windows and doors, addressing minor grading issues that direct water toward the foundation, and testing smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.
What to Bring to the Inspection
Come prepared so you can follow along effectively and get the most value from the time.
- This checklist of questions. Print it and work through each question during or after the inspection.
- A notebook and pen. Write down the inspector’s verbal comments that may not make it into the written report, including their informal assessments and recommendations.
- Your phone (camera and flashlight). Take your own photos of issues the inspector points out. Your perspective and framing may capture context the inspector’s photos miss. A dedicated LED flashlight is much brighter than your phone’s light and helps you see into dark attics and crawlspaces.
- A moisture meter. Bring your own handheld moisture meter to spot-check walls, floors, and areas around windows. Most cost under $30 and can detect hidden moisture the inspector might not test in every location.
- Comfortable shoes and clothes. You’ll be walking through attics, basements, crawlspaces (if accessible), and around the exterior. Dress for utility, not style.
- A list of specific concerns about the property. If you noticed anything during showings (a stain on the ceiling, a musty smell in the basement, a crack in the driveway), mention it to the inspector so they pay extra attention to those areas.
Typical Cost Range and Factors
Home inspection costs vary by location, home size, and add-on services. Here’s what to expect in 2026.
Standard Home Inspection:
- Under 1,500 sq ft: $300 to $450
- 1,500 to 2,500 sq ft: $400 to $600
- 2,500 to 4,000 sq ft: $500 to $750
- Over 4,000 sq ft: $700 to $1,000+
Common Add-On Inspections:
- Termite/pest: $75 to $200
- Radon testing: $125 to $250
- Sewer line scope: $150 to $300
- Mold testing: $300 to $600
- Septic inspection: $300 to $600
- Well water testing: $100 to $300
- Structural engineer: $300 to $800
- Pool/spa inspection: $150 to $300
Factors That Affect Cost:
- Home age (older homes take longer and cost more)
- Home size (price scales with square footage)
- Location (urban areas tend to cost more)
- Accessibility (crawlspace versus basement, multiple stories)
- Additional structures (detached garage, guest house, barn)
What You’re Really Paying For: The inspection fee is trivial relative to the purchase price. On a $350,000 home, a $500 inspection is 0.14% of the price. The findings from that inspection could save you $5,000 to $50,000+ in repair negotiations or prevent you from buying a money pit entirely.
Red Flags vs. Green Flags
| Red Flag | Green Flag |
|---|---|
| They discourage you from attending. Any inspector who doesn’t want you present during the inspection is hiding the process from you. | They encourage you to attend and welcome questions throughout the inspection. |
| They promise to finish in under 2 hours (for a standard home). A thorough inspection of a typical home takes 2.5 to 4 hours. Speed indicates corners being cut. | They estimate 3 to 4 hours for a standard home and explain that thoroughness takes time. |
| They were recommended by the seller’s agent. The seller’s agent’s top priority is closing the deal. Their inspector recommendation may favor speed and leniency over thoroughness. | You selected them independently or verified a buyer’s agent recommendation through your own research. |
| No sample report available. If they can’t show you what their report looks like, the quality is likely poor. | They provide a sample report with clear photos, severity ratings, and plain-language descriptions. |
| They don’t carry E&O insurance. Operating without insurance suggests either inexperience or unwillingness to stand behind their work. | They carry E&O insurance and provide proof of coverage upon request. |
| They tell you the home is “fine” or “good” without specifics. Vague reassurances aren’t findings. Every home has issues worth noting. | They provide specific, detailed findings with honest severity assessments and recommendations for further evaluation where needed. |
Money-Saving Tips
- Don’t skip the inspection to save $500. This is the single worst place to cut costs in a home purchase. One missed foundation issue or failing sewer line can cost you $10,000 to $50,000+.
- Bundle add-on services with your general inspector. Many inspectors offer radon testing, mold sampling, or thermal imaging at discounted rates when added to the standard inspection. Bundling saves $50 to $150 per service versus hiring specialists separately.
- Use inspection findings to negotiate the purchase price. A roof with 3 years of remaining life (replacement cost: $8,000 to $15,000) is a legitimate negotiation point. Your inspection report is the evidence that supports your request for a price reduction or seller credit.
- Prioritize specialized inspections by risk. You don’t need every add-on for every home. A sewer scope is critical for homes over 30 years old. Radon testing matters everywhere. Pest inspections are standard in most areas. Pool inspections matter only if there’s a pool. Ask your inspector which add-ons are essential for this specific property.
- Get repair estimates from contractors, not just the inspector. Inspectors estimate repair costs, but contractors provide actual bids. Before you negotiate, get a real bid for the major items. A contractor’s $12,000 roof estimate carries more weight in negotiations than an inspector’s general range of $8,000 to $15,000.
- Keep the inspection report for future maintenance. The report is a detailed condition assessment of every system in the home at the time of purchase. Refer to it when planning maintenance and budgeting for replacements. Knowing the HVAC was 12 years old at purchase helps you plan for replacement at year 15.
Quick Reference Checklist
Before Hiring
- License verified with state licensing board?
- Professional certifications (ASHI, InterNACHI) confirmed?
- E&O insurance coverage verified?
- Recent reviews and references checked?
Scope and Process
- Inspection scope (included and excluded) understood?
- Expected duration discussed?
- Confirmed I can attend and follow along?
Report and Findings
- Report format and delivery timeline confirmed?
- Severity categorization system explained?
- Post-inspection summary walkthrough included?
Deal-Breakers and Negotiation
- Inspector’s candid assessment of major findings?
- Priority items identified for seller negotiations?
Specialized Inspections
- Additional inspections recommended for this property?
- Age-specific concerns addressed?
After the Inspection
- Follow-up availability confirmed?
- First-year maintenance priorities listed?
Glossary
Home Inspection: A visual examination of a residential property’s major systems and structural components performed by a qualified inspector. The purpose is to identify material defects, safety hazards, and maintenance needs. A standard home inspection is non-invasive (the inspector doesn’t open walls or dig up foundations).
ASHI (American Society of Home Inspectors): The oldest and one of the most respected professional organizations for home inspectors in the United States. ASHI members must meet experience requirements (250+ paid inspections), pass a comprehensive exam, and complete continuing education.
InterNACHI (International Association of Certified Home Inspectors): The largest home inspector association in the world. Certified InterNACHI inspectors complete training courses, pass exams, and adhere to standards of practice and a code of ethics.
E&O Insurance (Errors and Omissions): Professional liability insurance that protects the inspector (and indirectly you) if the inspector makes a mistake or overlooks a significant defect. If a missed issue costs you money, E&O insurance provides a mechanism for financial recovery.
Material Defect: A condition that significantly affects the value, habitability, or safety of a property. Material defects include structural damage, failed systems, safety hazards, and code violations. Inspectors are trained to identify and report material defects, distinguishing them from cosmetic or minor maintenance issues.
Helpful Tools and Resources
Detect hidden water damage in walls, floors, and ceilings. A $25 moisture meter can reveal problems that save you thousands in unexpected repairs after closing.
Affordable thermal cameras (some attach to your phone) reveal temperature differences that indicate insulation gaps, air leaks, and hidden moisture. A powerful tool for serious buyers.
A bright, high-quality flashlight is essential for inspecting dark attics, crawlspaces, and basements. Your phone light won't cut it in a windowless room.
Understanding what inspectors look for helps you ask better questions and evaluate their findings. A visual guide with photos of common defects is especially useful.
- ASHI Find an Inspector - Search for ASHI-certified home inspectors by zip code. All listed inspectors meet ASHI’s experience and education requirements.
- InterNACHI Find an Inspector - Directory of InterNACHI-certified inspectors searchable by location. Includes inspector profiles and specializations.
- EPA Radon Zone Map - Check whether your area has elevated radon risk. If your zone is 1 or 2, radon testing during the home inspection is strongly recommended.
- FEMA Flood Map Service Center - Verify whether the property is in a flood zone. Flood zone status affects insurance requirements and long-term costs.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does a home inspection cost in 2026?
A standard inspection for a typical single-family home runs $400 to $600. Larger, older, or more complex properties cost more ($600 to $1,000+). Add-on services like radon testing ($125 to $250), sewer scope ($150 to $300), and mold testing ($300 to $600) are extra. The total inspection investment for a thorough evaluation is typically $500 to $1,000.
Should I attend the home inspection?
Absolutely. Attending the inspection is one of the most valuable things you can do as a buyer. You’ll see issues in context, ask real-time questions, and get the inspector’s candid verbal assessment (which is often more nuanced than the written report). Plan to be there for the full 3 to 4 hours.
Can a home fail an inspection?
No. Home inspections aren’t pass/fail. They’re informational assessments that document the home’s current condition. Every home has findings. The question is whether the findings are acceptable to you given the price, your budget for repairs, and the seller’s willingness to negotiate.
What if the inspection reveals major problems?
You have several options: negotiate with the seller for repairs or a price reduction, request a seller credit at closing to cover repair costs, walk away using your inspection contingency (getting your earnest money back), or accept the findings and proceed with the purchase knowing what you’re getting into. Your real estate agent helps you evaluate which response makes sense.
Should I get a home inspection on new construction?
Yes. New homes have defects too. Common issues in new construction include improperly installed flashing, HVAC systems not sized correctly, grading problems, missing insulation, cosmetic damage, and code violations that passed through municipal inspections. A pre-closing inspection on new construction costs the same as any other inspection and frequently catches issues that would otherwise go unnoticed until after your builder warranty expires.
Disclaimer: This article is for educational purposes only and does not constitute real estate, legal, or financial advice. Home inspection findings, costs, and processes vary by location and property. Always hire a qualified, licensed inspector and consult with your real estate agent before making decisions based on inspection results. Information reflects general guidance as of early 2026 and may change.