My buddy bought a used Camry without asking about the timing belt. Six weeks later: $2,400 repair. The seller knew. He just didn’t volunteer it.
That’s the used car market in a nutshell. The average used car runs over $28,000 in 2026. A bad purchase doesn’t just mean buyer’s remorse. It means thousands in hidden repairs, a loan you’re upside down on, or a car with a dangerous history nobody mentioned.
Dealers and private sellers won’t hand you the bad news. You have to pull it out of them. These are the 25 questions to ask before buying a used car, whether from a dealership, a CPO program, or some guy on Facebook Marketplace. Print the checklist at the bottom, bring it with you, and don’t sign anything until you’ve worked through every one.
Before You Visit the Dealer or Seller
A little homework before you show up puts you in control of the conversation instead of the other way around.
- Get pre-approved for financing at your bank or credit union. Walk in knowing your interest rate and loan terms. Credit unions regularly beat dealer financing by 1-3%. A pre-approval letter is leverage, and it keeps you from getting trapped in a bad dealer loan.
- Research the specific make, model, and year you’re considering. Look up common problems, recall history, and typical maintenance costs. A five-minute search for “2020 Honda CR-V common issues” can save you from a known transmission problem or expensive timing chain job.
- Check fair market value on at least three sites. KBB.com, Edmunds.com, and NADA Guides. Know the private party price and the dealer retail price so you can spot an overpriced listing immediately.
- Run a free VIN check and recall lookup. Plug the VIN into NHTSA.gov for open recalls (free) and run a basic VIN decoder to confirm the trim, engine, and options match the listing. Discrepancies are a red flag before you’ve even left the house.
- Set your maximum budget and write it down. Include not just the purchase price, but tax, title, registration, insurance, and the first year of expected maintenance. Tape it to your dashboard. Emotional decisions happen in the moment. Your written number doesn’t change.
Vehicle History Questions
1. Can I see the vehicle history report (CARFAX or AutoCheck)?
A vehicle history report shows accidents, title problems, odometer rollbacks, flood damage, and ownership history. Clean report? Good start. Dirty report? Walk away.
But here’s the thing: never rely on a report the seller hands you. They might’ve cherry-picked a clean one or run it before a recent incident was reported. Run your own using the VIN. CARFAX costs around $40 for one report or $100 for six. That $40 can save you from a $5,000 nightmare.
2. Has this car ever been in an accident?
Even after professional repairs, a car that’s been in a serious wreck can have hidden structural damage, alignment problems, and tanked resale value. Minor fender benders? Less concerning. Frame damage? Dealbreaker. Full stop.
Ask for specifics: which panels were hit, did the airbag deploy, was the frame affected? Then cross-check against the vehicle history report. Walk around the car slowly and look for mismatched paint, uneven panel gaps, and fresh undercoating that might be hiding damage underneath.
3. How many previous owners has this car had?
One owner who kept the car for seven years with regular oil changes? That’s the dream. Four owners in three years? That’s a car everyone figured out was a problem and dumped on the next buyer.
More than three owners on a car under five years old is a red flag worth investigating further. The vehicle history report will show ownership timeline.
4. Does this car have a clean title?
A “clean” title means the car was never declared a total loss. A “salvage” or “rebuilt” title means it was, usually from a major accident, flood, or theft. Salvage title cars are harder to insure, harder to finance, and worth 20-40% less at resale.
Tip: Some states use different terminology: “rebuilt,” “flood,” “lemon law buyback.” Ask directly and verify with your state’s DMV. If the price seems too good for a clean-title car, run the VIN through NMVTIS (National Motor Vehicle Title Information System) for an extra check.
5. Has this car ever been recalled, and were all recalls completed?
Open recalls mean unresolved safety defects. We’re talking faulty airbags, brake failures, fuel system problems. The repairs are free at any authorized dealership, but only if they’ve actually been done.
Check yourself at NHTSA.gov. Takes 30 seconds. Free. Just punch in the VIN.
Mechanical Condition Questions for Used Cars
6. Can I have the car inspected by my own mechanic before buying?
This is the single most important question on this entire list. A pre-purchase inspection by an independent mechanic costs $100 to $200 and routinely catches problems that would cost thousands to fix.
Any seller who says no is hiding something. Period. Don’t negotiate on this one.
Find a mechanic who specializes in the car’s make if you can. A Honda specialist catches things a general shop might miss. And get the inspection done before you start negotiating price, since the findings give you real leverage at the table.
7. What is the current mileage, and does it match the vehicle history?
Odometer fraud still costs buyers over $1 billion per year according to NHTSA. Average annual mileage runs about 12,000 to 15,000 miles, so a 5-year-old car should show roughly 60,000 to 75,000 on the clock.
One thing people don’t realize: abnormally low mileage isn’t always better. A car that sat in a garage for three years can have dried seals, deteriorated fluids, cracked belts, and flat-spotted tires. Consistent, moderate mileage with regular service records is the sweet spot.
8. When were the brakes, tires, and battery last replaced?
Buyers overlook these constantly, and then they’re surprised by immediate costs after purchase. New tires: $400 to $1,000. Brake pads and rotors: $300 to $800. Battery: $150 to $300. If all three are due, that’s $850 to $2,100 you need to add to the real price of the car.
Check the tire tread yourself with a penny. Insert it with Lincoln’s head down. If you can see the top of his head, those tires are done. Also check the date code on the sidewall. Tires older than six years should be replaced regardless of tread depth.
9. Are there any warning lights on the dashboard right now?
A check engine light could mean a $20 gas cap or a $2,500 catalytic converter. An ABS or airbag light means safety systems aren’t working properly. Some sellers disconnect the battery before you arrive to temporarily clear codes.
Here’s how to catch that trick: when you turn the key to “on” (before starting the engine), all warning lights should briefly illuminate as a self-test. If the check engine light doesn’t come on during this cycle, someone may have tampered with the dash. Major red flag.
10. What major repairs or maintenance have been done?
A complete service history tells two stories: what’s already been taken care of (saving you future costs) and what the previous owner prioritized. Gaps in maintenance records are concerning.
Look specifically for evidence of regular oil changes, transmission fluid services, and timing belt replacement if applicable. A timing belt job runs $500 to $1,000, and if that belt snaps, it can destroy the engine. Most timing belts are due between 60,000 and 100,000 miles, and a lot of sellers dump cars right before that service is due.
11. Are there any fluid leaks or unusual noises?
Before your test drive, get down and look under the car. Fresh drips? Stains on the pavement? After the test drive, check again. Color matters: brown or black is oil, green or orange is coolant, red or pink is transmission fluid.
During the drive, turn the radio off and listen. Grinding, knocking, whining: these noises point to problems that are rarely cheap. Any leak or noise is fair game to bring up during price negotiations, even minor ones.
Used Car Pricing and Negotiation
12. What is the car’s fair market value based on its condition and mileage?
You need a number before you negotiate. Without it, you’re guessing.
Check at least three sources: Kelley Blue Book (KBB.com), Edmunds.com, and NADA Guides. Look up both the “dealer retail” price and the “private party” price, since private party is typically 10-20% lower. These numbers become your negotiation anchors. Walk in knowing what the car is worth, and the conversation changes completely.
13. Is the asking price negotiable?
Almost every used car price is negotiable. Asking this directly signals you’re an informed buyer who isn’t going to accept sticker price without a conversation.
At dealerships, always negotiate the total out-the-door price, not the monthly payment. Dealers love shifting to monthly payment discussions because it obscures how much you’re actually paying. In private sales, showing up with cash (or proof of pre-approved financing) gives you stronger leverage. Having a competing offer from another seller? Even better.
14. Are there any additional fees beyond the listed price?
Dealerships are notorious for piling on fees after you agree on a price: doc fees, dealer prep fees, advertising fees, VIN etching. Some are legitimate. Many are pure profit padding.
Doc fees vary wildly by state. California caps them at $85. Florida dealers sometimes charge $700+. Ask for a complete written breakdown of every fee before agreeing to anything. Most add-on fees are negotiable, and some you can flat-out refuse.
15. How long has this car been on the lot (or listed for sale)?
A car that’s been sitting for 60-90+ days gives you much stronger negotiating power. Dealers pay interest on unsold inventory every single day. Private sellers get more flexible the longer a listing sits.
At dealerships, check the sticker in the door jamb for the “in-service date” or just ask. For private sales, check when the listing first appeared online. Anything over 30 days is ripe for a lower offer, and 10-15% below asking is reasonable on a car that’s been sitting.
Used Car Financing Questions
16. What interest rate and loan terms are you offering?
Dealer financing is convenient but often expensive. The difference between 6% and 8% on a $20,000 loan over five years is over $1,000 in extra interest. That’s money out of your pocket for the convenience of not making a phone call.
Always get pre-approved at your bank or credit union before visiting the dealer. Credit unions regularly beat dealer rates by 1-3%. Bring your pre-approval letter and let the dealer try to match or beat it. Sometimes they can. Often they can’t.
17. What is the total cost of the loan, including all interest?
Low monthly payments hide bad deals. Stretching a loan to 72 or 84 months makes the monthly number look small while dramatically increasing total interest. Worse, you can end up “upside down” (owing more than the car is worth) for years.
Tip: Stick to 48 or 60 months maximum on a used car. Multiply the monthly payment by the number of months, add your down payment, and compare that total to the car’s value. If you’d be paying more than 120% of what the car is worth, the terms are too expensive. Run the numbers before you walk into the dealership.
18. Is there a prepayment penalty?
Most standard auto loans from banks and credit unions don’t have prepayment penalties. But “buy here, pay here” dealerships and subprime lenders? They sometimes sneak them in. A prepayment penalty charges you for being financially responsible, for paying the loan off early.
Confirm in writing that there’s no penalty. If there is one, find a different lender. Simple as that.
19. What is my total out-the-door price, including tax, title, and fees?
The advertised price is never the final price. Sales tax, title fees, registration, and dealer fees can add $1,500 to $4,000+ depending on your state and the vehicle.
Get this number in writing before you commit. And here’s something worth knowing: in some states, you only pay sales tax on the difference between the purchase price and your trade-in value. That can save you hundreds. Know your state’s rules before you sit down.
Warranty and Return Policy Questions
20. Is this a certified pre-owned (CPO) vehicle, and what does that include?
CPO cars have been inspected and come with a manufacturer-backed warranty, typically covering the powertrain up to 100,000 miles. A regular used car from a dealer might be sold completely “as-is.”
CPO vehicles cost $1,000 to $3,000 more than a comparable non-certified car. That premium can be worth it for the warranty and peace of mind. But read the fine print: not all CPO programs are equal. Manufacturer CPO (through a brand dealership) is far more reliable than a dealer’s self-created “certified” sticker. One has real backing. The other is marketing.
21. Is there any remaining factory warranty?
A three-year-old car with 30,000 miles might still have two years of bumper-to-bumper and seven years of powertrain warranty left. That’s free protection sitting on the table.
Don’t take the seller’s word for it. Call the manufacturer’s customer service line with the VIN and verify exactly what coverage remains. Ask about transfer fees (usually $0 to $100). This takes five minutes and could save you thousands.
22. What is your return policy if I find a problem after purchase?
Most private sales and plenty of dealership sales are “as-is.” Once you drive away, every problem is yours. Some dealers offer 3- to 7-day return windows, and a few states have limited lemon law protections on used cars.
Get any return policy in writing. A verbal “oh we’ll take care of you” means absolutely nothing. Online retailers like Carvana and CarMax offer 7-day return policies, which is genuinely useful if you’re nervous about buying sight-unseen. For private sales, your only real protection is that pre-purchase inspection.
23. Are you offering any extended warranty, and is it worth it?
Dealerships earn massive margins on extended warranties (technically called “vehicle service contracts”) and will push them hard in the finance office. Some provide real value. Many are overpriced.
If you want extended coverage, don’t just buy what the dealer offers. Shop around, since third-party providers often sell similar coverage for 30-50% less. Read the fine print: check the deductible, what’s excluded, whether you can choose your own repair shop. A warranty that requires you to use one specific shop two towns over isn’t much of a warranty.
Test Drive Questions for a Used Car
24. Can I test drive on the highway and on local roads for at least 20 minutes?
A quick lap around the block tells you almost nothing. You need highway speed to catch vibrations and transmission hesitation. You need stop-and-go to test the brakes under real conditions. You need a hill, a bumpy road, and enough time to actually evaluate the car.
Plan your own route before you show up. Include highway merging, a steep hill, and a rough road. Turn the radio off and listen. Turn the steering wheel fully in both directions at low speed. Test every feature: AC, heat, all windows, locks, infotainment system, backup camera. If something doesn’t work, that’s either a negotiating point or a reason to walk.
25. Can I start the car when the engine is cold?
Sellers sometimes run the car before you arrive so it starts smoothly and idles perfectly. A warm engine hides problems.
Ask to be the one who starts the car cold, the first start of the day. Watch the exhaust. White smoke on a cold morning? Normal condensation. Blue smoke? The engine is burning oil. Black smoke? Fuel system issue. Any smoke that doesn’t clear after a minute or two is a real concern. Also listen for rough idling, hard starting, or any knocking sounds that go away once the engine warms up. Those are problems the seller is hoping you won’t notice.
Quick Comparison Checklist
Use this table when comparing two or three vehicles side by side:
| Question | Car 1 | Car 2 | Car 3 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Year / Make / Model | |||
| Mileage | |||
| Asking price | |||
| Fair market value (KBB) | |||
| Number of owners | |||
| Accident history | |||
| Title status (clean/salvage) | |||
| Open recalls? | |||
| Tire condition | |||
| Brake condition | |||
| Service records available? | |||
| Warranty remaining? | |||
| CPO or as-is? | |||
| Pre-purchase inspection result | |||
| Total out-the-door price | |||
| Monthly payment (if financing) | |||
| Total loan cost | |||
| Return policy |
What to Bring to the Test Drive
Don’t show up empty-handed. Having the right stuff with you turns a casual visit into a serious evaluation.
- Your printed checklist: this one. Check off each question as you get answers. It keeps you organized and signals to the seller that you’re not an impulse buyer.
- A flashlight: for looking under the car, checking the engine bay, and inspecting the trunk for rust, water stains, or hidden damage. A phone flashlight works in a pinch.
- A penny and a tire tread depth gauge: insert the penny with Lincoln’s head down into the tread grooves. If you see the top of his head, those tires need replacing. A $3 tread gauge gives you exact measurements.
- Your phone with the VIN already entered: pull up the NHTSA recall check, the CARFAX report, and the KBB value before you arrive. Screenshots work great if cell service is spotty at the lot.
- A copy of your pre-approved financing: shows the seller you’re serious and ready to move. It also keeps you anchored to your budget when the salesperson starts pushing a higher-priced vehicle.
- A friend or second set of eyes: someone who isn’t emotionally invested in the car. They’ll notice things you won’t, and they’ll keep you from making a snap decision you’ll regret.
- An OBD2 scanner (optional but powerful): a $20-$40 Bluetooth scanner plugs into the port under the dash and reads diagnostic trouble codes. It’ll tell you if the check engine light was recently cleared, and what codes are lurking. Many auto parts stores will scan codes for free, but having your own tool puts you in control.
Typical Cost Range and Factors
The sticker price is just the beginning. Here’s what used car ownership actually costs, so you can budget for the real number.
Purchase Price (2026 averages): The average used car transaction price runs over $28,000. Budget models (5-7 years old, 70,000+ miles) start around $12,000 to $18,000. Late-model, low-mileage vehicles can hit $30,000 to $40,000+.
Sales Tax: Varies by state, from 0% (Montana, Oregon, New Hampshire) to over 10% in some jurisdictions when local taxes are included. On a $25,000 car in a 7% tax state, that’s $1,750.
Title and Registration: $75 to $500+ depending on your state and the vehicle’s weight and age. Some states charge more for newer or heavier vehicles.
Pre-Purchase Inspection: $100 to $200 for a thorough independent mechanic evaluation. Worth every cent.
Vehicle History Report: $40 for a single CARFAX report, $100 for a six-report package. AutoCheck is slightly cheaper.
Immediate Maintenance (first 6 months): Budget $500 to $2,000 for tires, brakes, battery, fluids, and other items that might be due. Even a well-maintained car usually needs something shortly after purchase.
Insurance: Used car insurance runs $1,200 to $2,400+ per year depending on your age, location, driving record, and the vehicle. Get quotes before you buy, since insurance on a sports car or luxury vehicle can be shockingly expensive.
Dealer Fees: Doc fees, dealer prep, VIN etching, and other add-ons can tack on $300 to $1,500 at a dealership. Most are negotiable.
Loan Interest (if financing): At 6% over 60 months on a $20,000 loan, you’ll pay about $3,200 in total interest. At 8%, that jumps to $4,300. The difference between getting pre-approved and accepting dealer financing can easily cost you $1,000+.
The bottom line: add 15-20% to the sticker price to estimate your true first-year cost of ownership. A $25,000 car realistically costs $29,000 to $31,000 once you factor in taxes, fees, insurance, and initial maintenance.
Red Flags vs. Green Flags
| Red Flag | Green Flag |
|---|---|
| Seller refuses a pre-purchase inspection. If they won’t let your mechanic look at it, they already know what the mechanic will find. Walk away, no exceptions. | Seller encourages an independent inspection. They’ve got nothing to hide and they know it. That confidence tells you a lot about the car’s condition. |
| No service records available. A car with zero maintenance documentation is a gamble. You have no idea what’s been done, or more importantly, what hasn’t. | Complete or near-complete service records. Regular oil changes, scheduled maintenance, and documented repairs show an owner who actually cared about the car. |
| Price is significantly below market value. If a 2021 Accord with 40,000 miles is listed for $8,000 under KBB, something is wrong. Flood damage, salvage title, odometer rollback: cheap cars have expensive secrets. | Price is within the KBB/Edmunds fair market range. A reasonably priced car from a seller who can justify the asking price with condition and history is a much safer bet. |
| Seller pressures you to decide immediately. “Someone else is looking at it this afternoon.” Classic tactic. A good deal today is still a good deal tomorrow. | Seller gives you time and space. They answer your questions patiently, let you take the car to your mechanic, and don’t manufacture fake urgency. |
| Dashboard warning lights are on, or suspiciously absent. A check engine light is a problem. A check engine light that doesn’t illuminate during the key-on self-test is a bigger problem, because someone tampered with it. | All warning lights cycle normally on startup, and none stay on. The dash self-test works, no codes are stored, and the seller can explain any recent maintenance clearly. |
| Fresh undercoating or recent repaint on a “no accident” car. New paint on one panel, overspray on rubber seals, or fresh undercoating in suspicious spots all suggest hidden body or frame damage. | Paint and panels are consistent. Even gaps are even, paint color matches across every panel, and there’s no overspray or fresh undercoating hiding repairs. |
| Title history shows multiple owners in a short period. Four owners in three years means everyone who bought this car figured out it was a problem and dumped it on the next person. | One to two owners over 5+ years. Long-term ownership with consistent maintenance is the best-case scenario for any used car. |
Money-Saving Tips
- Always negotiate the out-the-door price, not the monthly payment. Dealers love to shift the conversation to monthly payments because stretching the term hides the true cost. Insist on negotiating the total price first. Everything else flows from that number.
- Buy at the end of the month or quarter. Salespeople chase targets. A salesperson who’s one car short of a bonus at month-end will negotiate harder than someone who hit quota on the 15th. December and January are particularly good months for negotiating.
- Get pre-approved financing before you shop. Your credit union or bank rate is your floor. Let the dealer try to beat it. Sometimes they can, especially on CPO vehicles with manufacturer-subsidized rates. But if they can’t, you’ve already won.
- Use the pre-purchase inspection as a negotiating tool. A mechanic’s report showing $1,200 in needed brake work and tires is powerful leverage. You’re not guessing. You’ve got a professional’s written estimate. Most sellers will come down or agree to fix the issues.
- Consider a one- to two-year-old off-lease vehicle. Cars depreciate 20-30% in the first two years. A two-year-old car with 24,000 miles and remaining factory warranty is often the sweet spot for value. You skip the steepest depreciation and still get a relatively new car.
- Skip the dealer add-ons. Fabric protection, paint sealant, VIN etching, nitrogen tire fills: these are low-cost items with massive markups. A $500 “paint protection package” is a $30 bottle of wax. Say no to all of them.
- Check if your state offers a sales tax credit on trade-ins. In many states, you only pay sales tax on the difference between the new purchase price and your trade-in value. Trading in a $10,000 car on a $25,000 purchase? You’d only pay tax on $15,000. That saves $350 to $700+ depending on your tax rate.
- Shop insurance before you buy the car. Insurance on a used BMW 3 Series can cost twice as much as insurance on a used Toyota Camry. Get quotes for your top two or three choices before you commit. The annual insurance difference between models can easily be $500 to $1,000.
Glossary
CARFAX: A vehicle history report service that compiles data from DMVs, insurance companies, repair shops, and other sources to show a car’s accident history, title status, ownership timeline, odometer readings, and service records. It’s the most widely used report, though AutoCheck is a similar alternative.
Title Status: The legal classification of a vehicle’s ownership history. A “clean” title means the car was never declared a total loss. A “salvage” title means it was, typically from a major accident, flood, or theft. A “rebuilt” title means a salvage vehicle has been repaired and passed a state inspection. Title status directly affects insurance options, financing availability, and resale value.
Rebuilt Title: A title issued to a vehicle that was previously declared a total loss (salvage) but has since been repaired and inspected by the state. While rebuilt-title cars are legal to drive and register, they’re harder to insure, harder to finance, and typically worth 20-40% less than clean-title equivalents. The quality of the rebuild varies wildly.
CPO (Certified Pre-Owned): A used vehicle that has passed a manufacturer-specified multi-point inspection and comes with an extended manufacturer-backed warranty. Legitimate CPO programs are run through franchise dealerships (e.g., Toyota Certified, Honda Certified). Dealer-created “certified” labels without manufacturer backing don’t offer the same protection.
Gap Insurance: Coverage that pays the difference between what you owe on your auto loan and what the car is actually worth if it’s totaled or stolen. If you owe $22,000 on a car that’s only worth $17,000, gap insurance covers the $5,000 “gap.” It’s most valuable when you finance with a low down payment or a long loan term.
Depreciation: The decrease in a vehicle’s value over time. New cars lose roughly 20% of their value in the first year and 30-40% within the first three years. Depreciation is the single biggest cost of car ownership, and it’s the main reason buying used (especially 2-3 years old) saves so much money compared to buying new.
Helpful Tools and Resources
Plug it into any car built after 1996 to read diagnostic codes, check if the check engine light was recently cleared, and spot hidden problems before you buy. Costs $20 to $40 and pays for itself on the first used car you walk away from.
Check tire pressure on the spot during a test drive. Uneven or low pressure can signal alignment problems, slow leaks, or neglected maintenance. A $10 tool that tells you a lot about how the previous owner treated the car.
Once you've bought the car, a thorough detail makes a used vehicle feel like yours. A basic kit with interior cleaner, tire shine, and paint sealant runs $25 to $50 and saves you the $150+ a professional detail costs.
- Kelley Blue Book (KBB.com): The standard for used car pricing. Look up trade-in value, private party value, and dealer retail value for any make, model, year, and condition level. Use it to anchor every negotiation.
- NHTSA Recall & Safety Check: Free VIN-based recall lookup from the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. Also includes safety ratings, crash test results, and complaint databases. Takes 30 seconds.
- CARFAX Vehicle History Reports: The most comprehensive vehicle history service. Costs $40 for one report or $100 for six. Shows accidents, title issues, odometer history, ownership timeline, and service records.
- Edmunds.com: Independent car reviews, pricing tools, and a True Cost to Own calculator that estimates five-year ownership costs including depreciation, insurance, maintenance, and fuel.
- NMVTIS (National Motor Vehicle Title Information System): A federal database for checking title history across all 50 states. Catches title washing, where a salvage title from one state is cleaned by re-registering in another.
- iSeeCars.com: Free tools for checking whether a used car is fairly priced, how long it’s been on the market, and price drop history. Also ranks the best and worst used car deals by model.
- RepairPal.com: Look up average repair costs by make, model, and your zip code. Useful for estimating maintenance costs before you buy and for verifying whether a quoted repair price is fair.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many miles is too many for a used car?
There’s no magic number, but 100,000 miles is the threshold where expensive repairs become more likely. That said, a well-maintained car with 120,000 miles and complete service records is a better buy than a neglected one with 60,000. Maintenance history and overall condition matter more than the odometer alone.
Should I buy from a dealer or a private seller?
Depends on your comfort level. Dealerships offer more legal protections, financing options, and sometimes warranties, but charge higher prices. Private sellers are usually cheaper by 10-20% but sell as-is with no warranty or return policy. If you’re comfortable arranging your own financing and inspection, private sales can save real money.
Is a certified pre-owned car worth the extra cost?
For most buyers, yes. CPO vehicles cost $1,000 to $3,000 more but come with a manufacturer-backed warranty, a multi-point inspection, and roadside assistance. On a 3- to 5-year-old car, that coverage provides genuine peace of mind. Just make sure the “certified” label comes from the manufacturer, not the dealer’s own made-up program.
What is the best time of year to buy a used car?
Late December through February is the slowest sales period, which gives you more negotiating room. End-of-month and end-of-quarter are also strong because salespeople are chasing targets. September through November, when new model years arrive, pushes a wave of trade-ins onto used lots, meaning more supply and lower prices.
How do I avoid buying a flood-damaged car?
Run the vehicle history report and look for flood or salvage titles. Then use your nose and eyes: musty smells, water stains on upholstery, rust in weird places (under the dash, inside the trunk), silt in hard-to-reach areas. Test every electrical component, since flood damage causes intermittent electrical gremlins that show up weeks later. Cars from states recently hit by hurricanes deserve extra scrutiny. When in doubt, have your mechanic specifically look for water damage during the pre-purchase inspection.