A full roof replacement is one of those purchases where the spread between a great job and a nightmare is enormous. We’re talking $10,000 to $30,000 on the line, and most homeowners only go through this once or twice. The good news? Knowing the right roof replacement questions to ask puts you in control of the entire process, from material selection to final inspection.
These 17 questions are organized by topic so you can work through them during your estimate appointments. Bring this list, take notes on the answers, and compare contractors side by side. The differences will jump off the page.
Before You Contact a Roofing Contractor
Spending 20 minutes on prep work before your first call saves hours of confusion later. Here’s what to do:
- Figure out how old your current roof is. Check your closing paperwork, prior inspection reports, or ask a previous owner. If you don’t know the exact year, your best guess still helps.
- Document visible damage. Walk the perimeter and photograph anything obvious: missing or curling shingles, sagging sections, stains on interior ceilings. Take shots from multiple angles. A pair of roof binoculars lets you inspect shingles, flashing, and vent boots from the ground without climbing a ladder.
- Review your homeowner’s insurance policy. If storm damage is involved, pull up your coverage details, deductible amount, and your insurer’s preferred claims process.
- Look up HOA rules on roofing. Some associations dictate material type, color, or even the specific brand. Get this document in hand before any estimates come in.
- Check your state’s contractor licensing requirements. A two-minute search for “[your state] roofing contractor license” tells you exactly what credentials to verify.
Materials and Product Selection
1. What roofing material do you recommend for my home, and what are the trade-offs?
Not every material fits every roof. Your home’s pitch, your climate, local building codes, and your budget all factor into the decision. A roofer who recommends the same product for every single house isn’t doing their homework.
You should hear a clear explanation of why they’re suggesting a particular material. Architectural asphalt shingles are the most popular choice because they balance durability, appearance, and cost (typically $4 to $7 per square foot installed). Metal roofing lasts longer but costs significantly more ($9 to $15 per square foot). Three-tab shingles are cheapest but offer less wind resistance and a shorter lifespan. A good roofer explains what you gain and give up with each option.
2. What specific brand and product line will you install?
“Asphalt shingles” isn’t specific enough. GAF Timberline HDZ, Owens Corning Duration, CertainTeed Landmark Pro: these are real product names with different warranties, wind ratings, and price points. You need this level of detail to compare bids and to verify the warranty coverage later.
If a contractor can’t name the exact product, that’s a problem. It usually means they’ll install whatever’s cheapest or whatever they have sitting in the warehouse.
3. What type of underlayment will go under the new shingles?
Underlayment is the water-resistant layer between your roof deck and your shingles. Think of it as the backup plan if water gets past the outer layer. There are three main types: traditional felt paper, synthetic (the current industry standard), and self-adhering ice and water shield.
Most quality installations use synthetic underlayment across the whole deck, with ice and water shield along the eaves, in valleys, and around penetrations like chimneys and skylights. If you’re in a climate with freezing temperatures, ice and water shield along the first three feet from the eave is essential. Felt paper only? Ask them to explain why they’re going with the older option.
4. Will you replace all the flashing, or reuse what’s there?
Flashing is the metal that seals joints and transitions: around chimneys, skylights, vent pipes, and where the roof meets a wall. Reusing old, corroded flashing during a full replacement is one of the most common shortcuts that leads to leaks within a year or two.
The answer you want: “We replace all step flashing, counter flashing, and pipe boots.” Any roofer who plans to reuse “whatever looks okay” is cutting corners. New roof, new flashing. Period.
Old Roof Removal and Deck Condition
5. Will you do a full tear-off, or are you planning to roof over the existing layer?
Some contractors suggest laying new shingles directly over old ones to save time and money. While it’s technically allowed in some areas (up to two layers), it’s almost always a bad idea. Roofing over hides damage to the deck underneath, adds weight your structure may not handle well, reduces shingle lifespan, and can void manufacturer warranties.
A full tear-off lets the crew inspect the entire deck, replace damaged sections, and start fresh. Yes, it costs more (usually $1,000 to $3,000 extra for removal and disposal). It’s worth every dollar.
6. How will you handle rotted or damaged decking?
Once the old shingles come off, you’ll see the plywood or OSB sheathing underneath for the first time. Soft spots, water damage, and rot are common, especially around old leak areas. This is where surprise costs live.
Get a per-sheet price in writing before the tear-off starts. Most contractors charge $75 to $150 per sheet of replacement plywood or OSB. The contract should also specify that they’ll contact you for approval before replacing decking beyond a set dollar threshold (say, $500). No blanket permission to add charges without your okay.
7. How do you dispose of the old roofing materials?
Tear-off creates a mountain of debris: old shingles, felt, nails, broken flashing, and sometimes rotted wood. A professional operation brings a dumpster or dump trailer, lays tarps to protect your landscaping and siding, and runs a magnetic nail sweeper across your yard, driveway, and sidewalks when they’re done.
If disposal isn’t included in the bid, you’ll be stuck with a pile of debris and a separate hauling bill. Confirm this is part of the price.
Permits, Inspections, and Ventilation
8. Will you pull the required permits for this job?
Most municipalities require a building permit for a full roof replacement. The permit triggers an inspection, which means a third party verifies the work meets code. Skipping the permit might seem harmless, but it creates real problems: failed inspections when you sell the house, potential fines, and voided insurance coverage.
A reputable roofer pulls permits as standard practice and includes the cost in the estimate (typically $100 to $500 depending on your area). If someone suggests skipping permits “to save you money,” they’re saving themselves the hassle of meeting code requirements.
9. How will you address ventilation during the replacement?
Attic ventilation directly affects how long your new roof lasts. Poor ventilation traps heat and moisture, which can shorten shingle life by years and cause ice dams in cold climates. A balanced system needs intake vents at the soffits and exhaust vents at or near the ridge.
Your roofer should evaluate the current ventilation setup and recommend improvements if needed. The most common upgrade is adding a continuous ridge vent paired with functional soffit vents. One critical detail: mixing exhaust types (like keeping a powered attic fan while adding a ridge vent) creates competing airflow and makes things worse. A knowledgeable contractor will flag this.
10. Will there be a final inspection, and will you walk me through it?
After the work is done, you should get two things: a municipal inspection (triggered by the permit) and a walkthrough with your contractor. During the walkthrough, you should inspect the roof from the ground with binoculars, check the attic for daylight or debris, and verify that flashing, vents, and drip edge are all installed correctly.
Never release your final payment until you’ve completed this walkthrough and confirmed you’re satisfied. Put that condition in the contract.
Timeline, Crew, and Logistics
11. What is the projected start date and how many days will this take?
Most residential roof replacements take one to three days for a standard-sized home, assuming decent weather and a straightforward layout. Steeper pitches, complex designs with multiple dormers and valleys, or extensive decking repair can push it to four or five days.
Get a specific start date, not “sometime in the next few weeks.” Ask how weather delays are handled and how they’ll communicate schedule changes. During peak season (late spring through early fall), popular contractors book up fast. Off-season scheduling (late fall, winter) can sometimes get you a lower price and a faster start.
12. Who will be on-site supervising the work?
Some roofing companies subcontract the installation to crews they don’t directly employ. That’s common and not automatically a problem, but you need to know who’s responsible for quality control on your roof each day.
Get the name of the project manager or lead foreman. Ask whether the crew members are the company’s own employees or subcontractors. If they’re subs, confirm they’re insured and that the roofing company takes full contractual responsibility for their work.
13. How will you protect my property during the replacement?
A roof tear-off sends debris everywhere. Shingle pieces, nails, and broken material rain down on anything below. Your landscaping, siding, windows, air conditioning unit, and vehicles are all at risk.
The contractor should lay tarps over plants and walkways, move or cover anything fragile near the house, and use protective boards against siding. Ask specifically about this and confirm property protection is written into the contract. If something gets damaged, you want clear responsibility established in advance.
Pricing and Warranty
14. Can I get a fully itemized estimate with materials and labor broken out?
A single lump-sum number is useless for comparison. You need to see individual line items: shingle brand and product, underlayment type, flashing, drip edge, ridge vent, tear-off and disposal, decking replacement rate, permit fees, and labor.
Itemized estimates let you compare bids on equal terms. When one contractor is $5,000 cheaper, you can see exactly where the savings come from. If it’s cheaper materials or skipped steps, that “savings” is actually a liability.
15. What is your workmanship warranty, and what does it cover?
Two warranties matter: the manufacturer’s warranty on materials and the contractor’s warranty on their labor and installation. Here’s the thing most people miss: a manufacturer’s warranty won’t cover problems caused by bad installation. So if the crew botches the flashing and you get a leak, the shingle manufacturer will deny your claim.
Look for a workmanship warranty of at least five years, ideally ten. Get the details in writing: What’s covered? What voids it? Does it transfer if you sell the house? And confirm the contractor has been in business long enough that you can actually count on them being around to honor it.
16. What manufacturer warranty tier am I getting, and is it prorated?
Manufacturer warranties sound impressive (“Lifetime!” “50-year!”) but the fine print is where people get burned. Many standard warranties are prorated, meaning coverage shrinks every year. Some only cover replacement materials, not the labor to install them.
Ask which warranty tier your installation qualifies for. GAF, for example, offers System Plus, Silver Pledge, and Golden Pledge, each with different coverage levels. Non-prorated warranties with labor coverage cost more but provide dramatically better protection. This is one area where spending extra upfront almost always pays off.
17. What’s your payment schedule?
How a roofer structures payment tells you a lot about how they operate. Full payment upfront is one of the oldest contractor scams. Walk away from anyone who demands it.
A reasonable structure: 10% to 30% deposit to cover materials, with the remaining balance due after completion and your final inspection. Some contractors split payments into three stages (deposit, mid-project, final). That works too. Everything should be spelled out in the contract, including what triggers each payment. Cash-only demands and verbal payment terms are both red flags.
What to Mention or Send Beforehand
Share these details with each contractor before the estimate visit. It makes the appointment faster and the numbers more accurate.
- Your roof’s age and any repair history. Even an approximate age helps the roofer plan what they’ll find underneath the shingles.
- Photos of problem areas. Snap pictures of missing shingles, stains, sagging spots, or interior ceiling damage. Send them by text or email before the visit.
- Your insurance claim details (if applicable). If you’re filing for storm damage, provide the insurance company name, claim number, and adjuster contact info. Many roofers coordinate directly with insurers.
- HOA material and color restrictions. Send over the relevant section of your HOA rules so the roofer can tailor their recommendation from the start.
- Your general budget range. Saying “we’re hoping to stay around $15,000” helps the roofer recommend appropriate materials without wasting time on options you can’t afford.
Typical Cost Range and Factors
Roof replacement costs depend on your location, roof size, materials, and complexity. Here’s what to expect nationally:
Asphalt shingle replacement (most common): $8,500 to $25,000 for a typical 1,500 to 2,500 square foot home. Architectural shingles land in the middle of that range. Three-tab shingles cost less but offer shorter lifespans and weaker wind ratings.
Metal roof replacement: $15,000 to $45,000 depending on the type (standing seam vs. metal shingles) and roof size. Higher upfront cost, but metal can last 40 to 70 years.
Tile or slate replacement: $20,000 to $60,000+. Premium materials with very long lifespans but significantly higher weight requirements and labor costs.
Key cost drivers:
- Roof size. Measured in “squares” (one square = 100 sq ft). More area means more material and labor.
- Pitch and complexity. Steeper roofs need special safety equipment. More dormers, valleys, and penetrations add labor hours.
- Number of layers to tear off. Removing two old layers costs more than removing one.
- Decking condition. Replacement plywood runs $75 to $150 per sheet, and you won’t know the full extent until tear-off.
- Material choice. Three-tab asphalt is cheapest; slate and tile are at the top.
- Your region. Urban areas and high-cost markets run 20% to 40% above national averages.
- Season. Off-season work (late fall, winter) can be 10% to 15% cheaper in some markets.
Red Flags vs. Green Flags
| Red Flag | Green Flag |
|---|---|
| Wants full payment before starting work. No legitimate roofer needs 100% upfront. | Reasonable deposit (10-30%) with balance due after completion and your inspection. |
| Suggests roofing over the old layer to “save money.” Hides deck damage and shortens shingle life. | Recommends a full tear-off, inspects the deck, and explains why starting fresh matters. |
| Won’t provide an itemized estimate. A lump sum hides cheap materials and inflated margins. | Detailed written estimate breaking out every material, labor cost, and fee. |
| Showed up uninvited after a storm. Storm chasers do fast, cheap work and disappear. | Local company you found through research, with a verifiable address and track record. |
| Says permits aren’t needed or suggests skipping them. | Pulls all required permits and schedules inspections as standard practice. |
| No workmanship warranty, or one that only lasts a year. | Five to ten year workmanship warranty, in writing, with clear terms. |
| Pressures you with “this price expires today.” | Encourages you to get multiple bids and gives you 30+ days on the quote. |
Money-Saving Tips
- Schedule in the off-season. Late fall and winter are slower for roofers in most regions. Many offer 10% to 15% discounts to keep their crews busy. You’ll also get a faster start date.
- Ask about manufacturer rebates. GAF, Owens Corning, and CertainTeed run seasonal promotions that your roofer might not mention unless you bring it up.
- Compare bids on equal scope, not just price. The cheapest bid often excludes items the others include (drip edge, ice shield, full decking inspection). Line-by-line comparison reveals the real value.
- Coordinate with a neighbor. Some roofers offer multi-home discounts when they can do two or three roofs on the same block during one mobilization. It cuts their setup costs, and they’ll pass savings to you.
- Choose mid-range architectural shingles. They offer excellent durability and curb appeal without the premium price of designer lines. Unless you need a specific look, mid-range is the sweet spot.
- Maintain your current roof to delay replacement. Replacing a few damaged shingles ($200 to $500), clearing gutters, and trimming overhanging branches can buy you three to five extra years. That’s real money saved. Keeping a roof repair tarp in the garage gives you a way to cover a damaged section during a storm until a roofer can get there.
- Don’t skip the enhanced warranty. Paying $200 to $500 more for a non-prorated warranty with labor coverage can save you thousands if a problem develops in year eight or ten.
Quick Reference Checklist
Print this out and bring it to every roofing estimate:
- What material do you recommend, and what are the trade-offs?
- What specific brand and product line will be installed?
- What type of underlayment will go under the shingles?
- Will you replace all flashing, or reuse existing flashing?
- Full tear-off or roofing over the existing layer?
- How will you handle rotted or damaged decking?
- How is old material disposed of?
- Will you pull the required permits?
- How will you address attic ventilation?
- Will there be a final inspection and walkthrough?
- What is the projected start date and duration?
- Who supervises the work on-site each day?
- How will you protect my property during the job?
- Can I get a fully itemized estimate?
- What is the workmanship warranty?
- What manufacturer warranty tier am I getting?
- What is the payment schedule?
Glossary
- Square: A roofing measurement equal to 100 square feet. A 2,000 square foot roof is 20 squares. Bids and material costs are often priced per square.
- Tear-off: The process of removing all existing roofing material down to the bare deck before installing new shingles. Allows full inspection of the deck and a clean starting surface.
- Drip edge: An L-shaped metal strip installed along the roof edges that directs water away from the fascia board and into the gutters. Required by most building codes on new installations.
- Ice and water shield: A self-adhering membrane installed in vulnerable areas (eaves, valleys, around penetrations) that provides a waterproof barrier even if water gets under the shingles. Critical in climates with freezing temperatures.
- Ridge vent: A ventilation component running along the roof peak that lets hot, moist air escape from the attic. Works with soffit vents to create balanced airflow.
Helpful Tools and Resources
Inspect your roof from the ground without climbing a ladder. You can spot missing shingles, damaged flashing, and vent boot failures from your driveway. Useful before and after the roofer's work.
A heavy-duty waterproof tarp covers a damaged section until the roofer arrives. Essential during storm season when roofers are booked for days. Keep one stored in the garage.
If a shingle blows off before the roofer arrives, a few galvanized roofing nails and a tube of roofing sealant can hold a temporary patch. Ask the roofer if a quick repair is feasible while you wait for the full replacement.
- NRCA Consumer Resources (National Roofing Contractors Association): Free guides on choosing materials, finding contractors, and understanding roofing warranties from the industry’s leading trade group.
- GAF Contractor Locator: Search for GAF-certified installers in your area. Certified contractors can offer enhanced warranty tiers that non-certified installers can’t match.
- Owens Corning Roofing Contractor Network: Find Owens Corning preferred contractors and explore their product lines and warranty options.
- Better Business Bureau: Look up any roofing company’s complaint history, customer reviews, and accreditation status before signing a contract.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does a typical roof replacement take?
One to three days for most homes with asphalt shingles, assuming good weather and a standard layout. Homes with steep pitches, multiple dormers, or extensive decking damage may take four to five days. Metal and tile roofs generally take longer due to more complex installation requirements. Your contractor should provide a specific timeline based on your roof, not a generic estimate.
Should I replace my roof if only part of it is damaged?
It depends on the roof’s age and the extent of the damage. If your roof is less than 10 years old and the damage is isolated (a few missing shingles from a storm, for example), a targeted repair is usually the smarter call at $300 to $1,500. But if the roof is 20+ years old and you’re patching a new problem every year, those repair costs add up fast. A full replacement becomes the better long-term investment.
Can I stay in my home during a roof replacement?
Yes, in most cases. Expect significant noise from tearing off old material and nailing new shingles. The crew typically works during normal business hours, and you’ll have water and power throughout the process. It’s loud and somewhat disruptive, but livable. If you work from home or have small children, plan to spend the noisiest days (usually day one, the tear-off) away from the house.
Does a new roof increase my home’s value?
A new roof typically recoups 60% to 70% of its cost at resale, according to industry data. Beyond the direct return, it removes a major negotiation point for buyers. An aging roof on an inspection report can cost you $10,000 to $15,000 in buyer concessions. A new roof eliminates that conversation entirely.
What time of year is best for a roof replacement?
Late spring through early fall offers the best installation conditions for asphalt shingles. The adhesive strips on shingles need warm temperatures to seal properly. However, scheduling in the off-season (late fall or winter) can save you 10% to 15% in some markets because roofers are less busy. If you go this route, confirm your contractor knows how to handle cold-weather installation techniques that help shingles seal correctly.
Next Steps
Get at least three itemized estimates and walk through this checklist with each contractor. Pay close attention to how they answer: roofers who give specific, confident responses and put everything in writing are the ones worth trusting with a five-figure investment. Vague answers and verbal promises are your signal to move on.
For related guidance, check out our guides on Questions to Ask a Roofer Before Signing a Contract and our Complete Guide to Hiring Home Service Professionals.