Whether you’re starting from bare dirt or overhauling an overgrown yard, the right landscaper makes a dramatic difference in both the result and the experience. A poorly planned landscape wastes water, dies in the first season, and looks worse than what you started with. A well-designed one adds curb appeal, increases property value, and gives you outdoor space you actually use. The questions to ask a landscaper before hiring one aren’t complicated, but skipping them is how people end up with $8,000 worth of dead plants and a yard that floods every time it rains.
These 15 questions cover design, irrigation, maintenance, plant selection, and everything else you need to know before signing a contract. Bring this list to your consultations and let the answers separate the professionals from the amateurs.
Before You Contact a Landscaper
A little prep work makes every conversation more productive:
- Walk your property and take notes. Where does water pool after rain? Which areas get full sun vs. shade? Where is the soil rocky or hard clay? What existing plants do you want to keep? These observations give the landscaper critical information. Running a soil test kit before the consultation gives you hard data on your soil’s pH and nutrient levels, which helps the landscaper choose the right plants and amendments.
- Define your priorities. Do you want low maintenance or a show garden? Privacy screening or open views? A patio and outdoor kitchen or just a clean, green lawn? Be honest about how much time you’re willing to spend on upkeep.
- Set a budget range. Landscaping costs vary enormously. Knowing your number upfront helps the landscaper design something achievable instead of presenting a $50,000 plan when your budget is $10,000.
- Check your HOA rules (if applicable). Some HOAs regulate fence heights, tree species, front-yard gardens, and even mulch color. Get those rules before the design phase.
- Photograph your yard from multiple angles. Include problem areas, existing features you want to keep, and views from inside the house that you’d like to improve.
Credentials and Experience
1. Are you licensed and insured for landscaping work in this area?
Licensing requirements for landscapers vary by state and city. Some states require a landscape contractor license for any work beyond basic mowing. Others have separate licenses for irrigation, pesticide application, and structural work (retaining walls, patios). At a minimum, any landscaper you hire should carry general liability insurance and workers’ compensation.
Ask for a license number and verify it. Then ask to see a certificate of insurance. If they’re doing irrigation work, they may need a separate plumbing or irrigation license depending on your jurisdiction. Uninsured landscapers leave you liable for injuries on your property and damage to underground utilities.
2. How long have you been in business, and can I see examples of your work?
Landscaping has a low barrier to entry. A pickup truck and a trailer is all it takes to hang a shingle. But designing, installing, and maintaining a landscape that thrives requires real skill and experience. Look for at least three to five years in business under the same name.
Ask for photos of completed projects, especially projects similar in scope to yours. Even better: ask to visit one or two finished landscapes in person. You’ll see how the plants filled in, how the hardscape has held up, and whether the overall design still looks intentional rather than random.
3. Do you have any horticultural training or landscape design certifications?
Not every good landscaper has formal certifications, but credentials from organizations like the Association of Professional Landscape Designers (APLD) or a Certified Landscape Professional (CLP) designation from the National Association of Landscape Professionals indicate a higher level of training. A background in horticulture, landscape architecture, or plant science also suggests they know how to select plants that’ll actually survive in your specific conditions.
This matters more for design-intensive projects than for basic lawn installation. If you’re hiring someone to create a comprehensive landscape plan with diverse plantings, water features, and outdoor living areas, qualifications matter.
Design and Plant Selection
4. Will you create a detailed landscape design plan before starting work?
For anything beyond basic sod installation or a simple mulch-and-shrub job, you should receive a scaled design plan before any digging begins. The plan should show plant placement with species names, hardscape locations (patio, walkways, retaining walls), grading and drainage, irrigation zones, and lighting layout.
A proper design plan costs $500 to $3,000+ depending on the property size and complexity. Some landscapers include the design fee in the installation cost if you hire them for the project. Others charge separately. Either way, approving a plan on paper is far cheaper than moving a patio after it’s been poured.
5. How do you select plants for my specific site conditions?
This is where a lot of landscapers fail. Planting shade-loving hostas in full sun, or installing drought-sensitive hydrangeas where the irrigation won’t reach, is a waste of money. Plant selection should be driven by your site’s sun exposure, soil type, drainage, USDA hardiness zone, and your maintenance tolerance.
A knowledgeable landscaper will ask about your soil (or test it), observe the sun patterns on your property, and recommend plants that thrive in those conditions. They should also consider mature plant sizes so the landscape doesn’t look overgrown in three years. If someone proposes a plant list without ever looking at your soil or asking about sun exposure, they’re guessing.
6. What’s your approach to native plants and water-efficient landscaping?
Native plants adapted to your region typically require less water, fewer pesticides, and less maintenance than non-native ornamentals. They also support local pollinators and wildlife. Water-efficient landscaping (sometimes called xeriscaping in dry climates) groups plants by water needs so you’re not overwatering drought-tolerant species or underwatering thirsty ones.
This isn’t just an environmental consideration. It’s a financial one. A landscape designed with water efficiency in mind can reduce your irrigation costs by 30% to 50% compared to a traditional lawn-heavy design. Ask the landscaper how they approach water efficiency and whether they’re familiar with your region’s native plant palette.
Irrigation and Drainage
7. Do I need an irrigation system, and what type do you recommend?
If your area gets less than 30 inches of rain per year, or if you’re planting anything beyond native groundcover, you’ll almost certainly need irrigation. The two main residential types:
Drip irrigation ($1,500 to $4,000 for a typical residential install): Delivers water directly to plant roots through emitters. Extremely efficient, wastes very little water to evaporation, and ideal for garden beds, shrubs, and trees.
Spray/rotor irrigation ($2,500 to $6,000+): Traditional pop-up sprinkler heads. Necessary for lawns and large turf areas. Uses more water than drip but covers ground efficiently.
Most well-designed systems combine both: drip for beds and spray for lawn areas. Ask the landscaper how many zones the system will have, what controller they recommend (smart controllers that adjust to weather save significant water), and whether the design meets local water regulations.
8. How will you handle drainage and grading on my property?
Poor drainage ruins landscapes and foundations. Water should always flow away from your house and not pool in your yard. If you have low spots, clay soil, or downspout discharge that saturates a planting area, the landscaper needs to address drainage as part of the design.
Solutions range from simple regrading ($500 to $2,000) to French drains ($1,500 to $5,000+), dry creek beds ($1,000 to $3,000), and catch basins. Your landscaper should evaluate water flow during the site assessment and include drainage solutions in the plan. A landscape that looks great in dry weather but turns into a swamp after every rain is a failed installation.
Hardscape and Structures
9. What hardscape elements (patio, walkways, retaining walls) are included in the design?
Hardscape is the non-living part of your landscape: patios, walkways, retaining walls, fire pits, outdoor kitchens, and fences. These elements cost more per square foot than plantings but define the structure and usability of your outdoor space.
Common hardscape costs:
- Concrete patio: $6 to $15/sq ft
- Paver patio: $12 to $30/sq ft
- Natural stone patio: $15 to $50/sq ft
- Retaining wall: $20 to $50 per square face foot
- Concrete walkway: $8 to $15/sq ft
Ask the landscaper about material options for each element, the foundation/base preparation they’ll use (this determines longevity), and whether the work requires a permit. Retaining walls over 4 feet tall typically require an engineer’s stamp and a building permit in most jurisdictions.
10. How will you handle the transition between new landscaping and existing features?
A well-designed landscape blends seamlessly with your house, driveway, existing trees, and neighboring properties. Abrupt transitions, where new sod meets old concrete or where fresh mulch stops at a neighbor’s fence line, look unfinished.
Your landscaper should address edge treatments, grade transitions, and plant layering to create a cohesive look. This includes dealing with tree roots near new plantings, matching grading to existing walkways, and planning for how the landscape will look from inside your house, from the street, and from the backyard.
Maintenance and Guarantees
11. What maintenance will this landscape need in the first year and beyond?
Every landscape requires some maintenance, but the amount varies enormously based on design choices. A native prairie garden needs almost nothing after establishment. A formal garden with hedges, annuals, and a manicured lawn needs weekly attention.
Ask the landscaper to be specific: How often will plants need watering during establishment? When should fertilization happen? Which plants need pruning and when? How often should mulch be replenished? If you’re not willing to do the maintenance yourself, ask what a monthly or seasonal maintenance contract would cost ($150 to $500+ per month for most residential properties).
12. Do you offer a plant warranty, and what does it cover?
Reputable landscapers warranty their plant material, typically for one year from installation. This means if a properly maintained plant dies within the warranty period, they’ll replace it at no charge. The key phrase is “properly maintained.” Warranties almost always exclude plant death caused by drought (your fault for not watering), neglect, acts of nature (severe storms, unusual freezes), and improper owner-applied chemicals.
Ask for the warranty terms in writing. Find out what you’re responsible for (watering, fertilizing) and what triggers a warranty replacement. Some landscapers offer extended warranties (two to three years) if you also sign a maintenance contract with them. That’s a reasonable arrangement because they’re maintaining the plants themselves.
13. Do you offer ongoing maintenance contracts, and what do they include?
Many landscapers prefer clients who sign up for ongoing maintenance because it provides steady revenue. A typical residential maintenance contract includes: mowing, edging, blowing, seasonal pruning, mulch replenishment, irrigation adjustments, and seasonal fertilization.
Monthly costs range from $150 to $500+ depending on property size and service level. Some contracts also include seasonal color plantings (swapping annuals), pest monitoring, and winterization. Get specific about what’s included and what’s billed separately. “Full maintenance” means different things to different companies.
Contract and Pricing
14. What does the estimate include, and what’s excluded?
Landscape estimates often exclude more than people realize. The bid might cover plants, mulch, and labor but not delivery, soil amendments, irrigation, drainage, hardscape, or permits. And “plants” might mean one-gallon nursery pots instead of the five-gallon specimens you were imagining.
Demand an itemized estimate that specifies: plant names and sizes (gallon count), mulch type and depth, soil amendments, irrigation components, hardscape materials and quantities, labor, delivery and equipment fees, and permit costs. Compare bids on equal scope. A $5,000 bid using one-gallon plants and 2 inches of mulch is not the same value as an $8,000 bid using five-gallon plants and 4 inches of mulch.
15. What is the payment schedule, and do you offer any guarantees on the timeline?
Standard payment for landscaping work: 25% to 33% deposit at signing (covering plant and material procurement), a progress payment at the midpoint, and the final 25% to 33% upon completion and your walkthrough.
Ask about timeline guarantees. Weather delays are legitimate, but a project that was supposed to take two weeks shouldn’t drag on for two months. The contract should include a projected start date, estimated completion date, and a process for handling delays. If the landscaper can’t commit to a timeframe, they may be juggling too many projects.
What to Mention or Send Beforehand
Share these details before your first meeting to get more accurate estimates:
- Photos of your property from multiple angles. Include the front, back, sides, and any problem areas (standing water, bare spots, overgrown areas).
- Your priorities and lifestyle. How you use your outdoor space (kids, pets, entertaining, gardening) directly shapes the design. Be specific.
- Any HOA rules or city ordinances. Fence heights, setback requirements, water restrictions, or prohibited plant species. The landscaper needs these before designing.
- Your irrigation situation. Do you have an existing system? What’s the water pressure like? Is there a hose bib on every side of the house?
- Your budget range. An honest number lets the landscaper design something achievable. Most good landscapers can phase a project across multiple seasons if budget is tight.
Typical Cost Range and Factors
Landscaping costs depend on scope, property size, material choices, and your region. Here’s what to expect:
Basic lawn and bed installation: $3,000 to $8,000. Sod or seed, foundation plantings, mulch beds, and basic edging.
Mid-range landscape design and installation: $10,000 to $30,000. Design plan, diverse plantings, mulch, irrigation system, and basic hardscape (walkway or small patio).
Comprehensive landscape with hardscape: $30,000 to $75,000+. Detailed design, extensive plantings, full irrigation, paver patio, retaining walls, outdoor lighting, and drainage solutions.
Ongoing maintenance contracts: $150 to $500+ per month depending on property size and service level.
Key cost drivers:
- Property size. Larger properties need more material, more labor, and more irrigation.
- Plant sizes. One-gallon shrubs ($8 to $20 each) vs. five-gallon ($30 to $75 each) vs. fifteen-gallon trees ($150 to $400 each). Larger plants give instant impact but cost significantly more.
- Hardscape materials. Concrete is cheapest, pavers are mid-range, natural stone is premium.
- Irrigation. Adding a full irrigation system runs $2,500 to $6,000+.
- Soil conditions. Rocky soil, heavy clay, or soil that needs extensive amendment adds cost.
- Your region. Labor rates, plant availability, and water costs vary significantly by area.
- Grading and drainage work. Major regrading or French drain installation adds $2,000 to $10,000+.
Red Flags vs. Green Flags
| Red Flag | Green Flag |
|---|---|
| No license or insurance. One damaged utility line or injured worker and you’re on the hook. | Licensed, insured, and provides documentation without hesitation. |
| Proposes a plant list without visiting the property or assessing sun, soil, and drainage. | Visits the property, evaluates conditions, and designs based on your specific site. |
| Can’t name the specific plant species in their proposal. “Some nice shrubs” isn’t a plan. | Provides a detailed plant list with species names, sizes, and placement rationale. |
| No written estimate or contract. “It’ll be about $X” on the phone. | Itemized written estimate specifying every material, quantity, size, and cost. |
| Wants full payment before any work begins. | Deposit at signing, progress payments tied to milestones, final payment after walkthrough. |
| No plant warranty. “Plants are living things, we can’t guarantee them.” | One-year plant warranty with clear terms about what’s covered. |
| Can’t explain their drainage approach or dismisses water management concerns. | Addresses grading and drainage proactively as part of the design. |
Money-Saving Tips
- Phase the project over multiple seasons. Install hardscape and trees in year one, add shrubs and perennials in year two, finish with lighting and accessories in year three. This spreads the cost without compromising the design.
- Start with smaller plant sizes. One-gallon shrubs ($8 to $20 each) reach the same mature size as five-gallon shrubs ($30 to $75 each). You just wait an extra year or two for them to fill in. Trees are the exception: invest in larger specimens because they take much longer to grow.
- Use native plants. They cost the same at the nursery but require less water, less fertilizer, and less maintenance once established. Lower lifetime cost by a wide margin.
- Seed the lawn instead of sodding. Grass seed ($0.10 to $0.25/sq ft) costs a fraction of sod ($0.60 to $1.50/sq ft). It takes longer to establish, but the savings on a 5,000-square-foot lawn are $2,000 to $5,000.
- Do your own mulching and basic planting. Spreading mulch and planting small perennials doesn’t require professional skills. Have the landscaper handle the hardscape, grading, trees, and irrigation, and handle the simpler tasks yourself.
- Install a smart irrigation controller. A smart irrigation controller ($150 to $250) adjusts watering based on local weather data and can reduce water bills by 30% to 50% compared to a traditional timer.
Quick Reference Checklist
Bring this to your landscaper consultations:
- Are you licensed and insured?
- How long have you been in business, and can I see your work?
- Do you have horticultural training or design certifications?
- Will you create a detailed design plan before starting?
- How do you select plants for my site conditions?
- What’s your approach to native plants and water efficiency?
- Do I need irrigation, and what type?
- How will you handle drainage and grading?
- What hardscape is included in the design?
- How will you transition between new and existing features?
- What maintenance will this landscape require?
- Do you offer a plant warranty?
- Do you offer ongoing maintenance contracts?
- What does the estimate include and exclude?
- What is the payment schedule?
Glossary
- Hardscape: The non-living structural elements of a landscape, including patios, walkways, retaining walls, fences, and fire pits. Hardscape defines the layout and usability of outdoor space.
- Drip irrigation: A water-delivery system that uses emitters to deliver water directly to plant roots at a slow, steady rate. More efficient than spray irrigation because it minimizes evaporation and runoff.
- Xeriscaping: A landscaping approach that reduces or eliminates the need for supplemental irrigation. Uses drought-tolerant plants, efficient irrigation, appropriate mulching, and soil improvement. Common in arid regions but applicable anywhere.
- Grading: Shaping the ground surface to control water flow. Proper grading directs water away from structures and prevents pooling. Critical for both landscape health and foundation protection.
- Hardiness zone: A USDA-defined geographic zone based on average annual minimum temperatures. Your zone (ranging from 1 to 13) determines which plants can survive your winters. Essential for selecting perennials, trees, and shrubs that’ll last.
- French drain: A subsurface drainage system consisting of a perforated pipe surrounded by gravel, installed in a trench. Collects and redirects groundwater away from problem areas. Common solution for yards with persistent water pooling.
Helpful Tools and Resources
Test your soil's pH, nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium levels before your landscaper's first visit. A $15 kit gives you data that helps inform plant selection and amendment recommendations.
A quality set with a trowel, cultivator, pruners, and weeder handles most basic yard maintenance between professional visits. Stainless steel tools last longer and resist rust.
Replaces your basic sprinkler timer and adjusts watering based on real-time weather data. Cuts water waste by 30% to 50% and pays for itself within a season or two on most properties.
- USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map: Enter your zip code to find your hardiness zone, which determines which plants can survive your winters. Essential for verifying your landscaper’s plant selections.
- NALP (National Association of Landscape Professionals): Find certified landscape professionals and access consumer resources on hiring and planning.
- Your Local Cooperative Extension Office: Free, science-based advice on soil testing, plant selection, pest management, and irrigation for your specific county and climate.
- WaterSense (EPA): Find EPA-certified smart irrigation controllers that reduce water waste. Most qualify for local water utility rebates.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much should I budget for landscaping a new home?
A common guideline is 5% to 10% of your home’s value, but that’s a rough starting point. A basic lawn and foundation planting for a $300,000 home might cost $5,000 to $10,000. A comprehensive landscape with hardscape, irrigation, and diverse plantings could run $20,000 to $50,000+. The best approach is to define your priorities, get a design, and then phase the work over time if the full scope exceeds your current budget.
How long does it take for a new landscape to look “filled in”?
Most professionally installed landscapes look good immediately and “filled in” within one to three growing seasons. Trees take longer (three to five years for noticeable canopy growth), but shrubs and perennials fill their spaces relatively quickly if planted at appropriate sizes and spacing. Overplanting for instant fullness leads to overcrowding problems within a few years.
Should I hire separate companies for design and installation?
It depends on the project. For simple installations (sod, mulch, basic shrubs), a single landscape company handles both. For complex projects with extensive hardscape, grading, and diverse plantings, a separate landscape designer or landscape architect ($500 to $5,000 for the design) can create a more thoughtful plan that you then bid out to installation companies. The advantage: competitive bids on the same design.
When is the best time of year to do landscaping work?
Spring and fall are the best planting seasons in most regions because temperatures are moderate and rainfall is more consistent. Hardscape work (patios, walls, walkways) can happen anytime the ground isn’t frozen. Irrigation installation is best done before planting. If you’re on a budget, late fall can be a good time to negotiate lower prices because landscapers’ schedules are slowing down.
How do I protect my new plants through the first winter?
Watering is the biggest factor. New plants need consistent moisture through their first winter (even dormant plants lose water through their bark and remaining foliage). A 3 to 4-inch layer of mulch around the base insulates roots. For tender plants in cold climates, burlap wrapping can protect against wind desiccation. Ask your landscaper for a winterization plan specific to the plants they installed.
Next Steps
Get proposals from at least three landscapers and compare them using this checklist. Pay close attention to how they assess your property, how specific their plant recommendations are, and whether they address drainage and irrigation proactively. A landscaper who visits your site, evaluates conditions, and presents a detailed plan is worth more than one who quotes a number over the phone.
For more guidance on hiring home service professionals, check out our Questions to Ask a General Contractor and our Complete Guide to Hiring Home Service Professionals.