Bathrooms are small rooms with big price tags. The average midrange bathroom remodel runs $15,000 to $35,000, and a master bath renovation can easily hit $50,000 to $75,000 or more. Every square foot involves plumbing, electrical, waterproofing, and tile, which means every square foot has the potential for expensive mistakes. Having the right bathroom remodel questions ready before your first contractor meeting protects your budget, your timeline, and your sanity.
These 17 questions cover layout, plumbing, tile, ventilation, accessibility, and everything else you need to address before demo day. Walk through them with each contractor you interview and compare the answers. The differences will tell you who’s prepared and who’s winging it.
Before You Contact a Contractor
Some quick prep work before your first meeting goes a long way:
- Decide on the scope. Are you updating fixtures and finishes (cosmetic refresh), replacing the tub/shower and vanity (midrange remodel), or gutting everything and changing the layout (full renovation)? Your answer determines the budget range and which contractors to call.
- Measure your bathroom. Length, width, and ceiling height. Note the locations of the toilet, vanity, tub/shower, and any windows. A quick sketch with measurements gives the contractor a head start.
- Identify what frustrates you about the current bathroom. Not enough storage? Poor lighting? A cramped shower? Slippery floors? These pain points should drive the design, not just aesthetics.
- Set a realistic budget range. Include a 15% to 20% contingency for surprises behind the walls (and there will be surprises). Knowing your number upfront helps the contractor design to your budget instead of your dreams.
- Gather inspiration photos. Save images from Houzz, Pinterest, or magazines that capture the style, colors, and features you like. Visual references communicate more efficiently than verbal descriptions.
Layout and Design
1. Should I change the layout, or keep the plumbing where it is?
This is the biggest cost decision in a bathroom remodel. Keeping the toilet, sink, and tub/shower in their current locations keeps plumbing costs minimal ($500 to $2,000 for hookups). Moving any of these fixtures means rerouting drain lines, supply lines, and potentially vent stacks, which adds $2,000 to $7,000 or more depending on what’s moving and how far.
Sometimes a layout change is worth it. If the current configuration wastes space or makes the bathroom feel cramped, rearranging fixtures can transform the room. But if the layout works and your issues are cosmetic, keeping the plumbing in place and upgrading finishes delivers the most value per dollar.
2. Tub, shower, or both? What configuration makes the most sense?
This depends on the bathroom, your household, and resale considerations. A common mistake: ripping out the only bathtub in the house to install a walk-in shower. While showers are more popular with homeowners, having at least one tub in the home is still considered important for resale, especially for families with young children.
For a master bath, a standalone shower with a separate freestanding tub is the premium option. For smaller bathrooms, a tub/shower combo maximizes versatility in a compact footprint. Walk-in showers without a curb (curbless or zero-entry) are increasingly popular and offer accessibility advantages. Your contractor should discuss the trade-offs based on your specific space, needs, and budget.
3. What are the structural limitations I should know about?
Bathrooms on upper floors sit above living space, so plumbing changes are more complex (and more consequential if something leaks). Load-bearing walls may limit where you can add a niche or expand an opening. Floor joists need to support the weight of a full bathtub (a standard soaking tub filled with water and a person can weigh 500+ pounds).
Your contractor should assess the structure during the first visit and identify any limitations before drawing up plans. Questions like “Can this wall come out?” and “Can we move the toilet to the opposite wall?” need structural answers, not sales answers.
Plumbing and Waterproofing
4. What’s the condition of the existing plumbing, and does anything need upgrading?
Behind bathroom walls, you’ll often find supply lines and drain pipes that are decades old. Galvanized steel supply lines (common in pre-1970s homes) corrode over time, restrict flow, and can contaminate water. Cast iron drain pipes develop rust and scale. If the wall is coming open anyway, this is the most cost-effective time to replace aging plumbing.
Ask the contractor whether they’ll inspect the plumbing during demolition and how upgrades are priced. Replacing galvanized supply lines with copper or PEX while the walls are open costs a fraction of doing it as a standalone project later. A proactive contractor will flag this; one who’s focused only on the finish work might not.
5. How will you waterproof the shower and tub area?
Waterproofing failure is the number one cause of bathroom remodel disasters. Moisture behind tile leads to mold, rot, and structural damage that can cost thousands to remediate. There are two primary approaches: sheet membrane (like Schluter Kerdi) and liquid-applied membrane (like RedGard or Hydroban).
Both work well when installed correctly. The key questions: Will the entire shower enclosure be waterproofed, including the curb, bench, niche, and floor? What product will you use? Will it extend at least 6 inches above the showerhead height? A contractor who can’t articulate their waterproofing method in detail is skipping a step you’ll pay for later.
6. What type of shower drain system will you install, and how will you ensure proper slope?
The shower floor needs to slope toward the drain at roughly 1/4 inch per foot. Improper slope causes standing water, which leads to mold and premature grout failure. There are two main drain types: center point drains (the traditional round drain in the middle of the floor) and linear drains (the modern trench-style drain along one wall or the shower entry).
Linear drains allow the entire floor to slope in one direction, which is simpler to execute correctly and works better with large-format tile. They also enable curbless (zero-entry) designs for accessibility. Center drains require a four-way slope, which is trickier with large tiles. Ask the contractor which type they recommend and why.
Tile, Flooring, and Finishes
7. What tile do you recommend for the shower walls and floor, and why?
Tile selection affects aesthetics, durability, maintenance, and cost. For shower floors, you need a tile with adequate slip resistance: smaller mosaic tiles (2x2 or penny round) with lots of grout lines provide better grip than large-format tiles. For shower walls, porcelain and ceramic are both excellent choices. Natural stone (marble, travertine) is beautiful but requires sealing and more maintenance.
A few practical considerations most people overlook: larger tiles mean fewer grout lines (easier to clean) but require a flatter substrate. Very small tiles on shower walls create extensive grout lines that can be tedious to maintain. The sweet spot for most shower walls is 12x24 or 4x12 subway tile. Ask your contractor about maintenance requirements for whatever material you’re considering.
8. What are my flooring options, and which works best for a bathroom?
Bathroom floors deal with water constantly, so the material needs to handle moisture without warping, staining, or becoming dangerously slippery. Top options:
Porcelain tile ($6 to $15/sq ft installed): The gold standard. Waterproof, durable, available in countless styles including convincing wood-look options. Choose a textured or matte finish for slip resistance.
Luxury vinyl plank/tile ($4 to $10/sq ft installed): Waterproof, warm underfoot, comfortable to stand on, and significantly cheaper than tile. Great for guest bathrooms and budget-conscious projects.
Natural stone ($10 to $30/sq ft installed): Beautiful but requires sealing and is more prone to staining. Marble looks stunning but etches from acidic cleaners.
Heated floors ($8 to $15/sq ft for the electric mat): Not a material, but an upgrade worth discussing. Electric radiant floor heating under tile adds comfort and dries the floor faster after showers. It’s inexpensive to add during a remodel but very expensive to retrofit later.
Ventilation and Electrical
9. Is the exhaust fan adequate, or does it need upgrading?
Bathroom ventilation is critical for controlling moisture, preventing mold, and protecting your new finishes. Many older bathrooms have undersized fans (50 CFM) or, worse, no fan at all. The general rule: you need 1 CFM per square foot of bathroom area, with a minimum of 50 CFM.
For a 100-square-foot master bath, that’s a 100 CFM fan. If you have a separate enclosed toilet area or a large shower, you may need additional ventilation. Quiet fans are measured in sones: 1.0 sone or less is whisper-quiet and costs $100 to $250. Louder, cheaper fans tend to get turned off because people hate the noise, which defeats the purpose entirely.
10. What electrical work is needed, and is the existing wiring up to code?
Bathrooms have specific electrical code requirements: GFCI-protected outlets within 3 feet of every sink, dedicated 20-amp circuits, and proper grounding. Older bathrooms may not meet current code, and any new work must bring the affected circuits up to standard.
Discuss lighting early in the planning process. Recessed lights in the shower (must be rated for wet locations), vanity sconce lighting, a lighted mirror or medicine cabinet, and a night light are all electrical decisions that need to be made before walls are closed up. Your contractor should coordinate with an electrician to plan outlet placement, lighting layout, and fan wiring.
Accessibility and Future-Proofing
11. Should I include any universal design or accessibility features?
Even if accessibility isn’t a current need, a bathroom remodel is the perfect time to add features you’ll appreciate as you age. Curbless shower entries, grab bars (installed into blocking behind the tile, not just into drywall), a comfort-height toilet (17 to 19 inches vs. the standard 15 inches), and a handheld showerhead on a slide bar are all relatively inexpensive additions during construction that become very costly to retrofit.
If you’re planning to age in this home, or if anyone in the household has mobility concerns, discuss universal design with your contractor. Wider doorways (32 to 36 inches clear), a roll-in shower, and reinforced blocking behind walls for future grab bar installation are smart investments that don’t compromise aesthetics.
12. What storage solutions should I plan for?
Bathroom storage is almost always underestimated. Think beyond the vanity: recessed medicine cabinets, shower niches (built into the wall during construction, not surface-mounted), linen towers, floating shelves, and vanity drawer organizers.
Shower niches are worth specific attention. They should be waterproofed as part of the shower membrane, framed between studs (or custom-sized with blocking), and lined with the same tile or a complementary material. Surface-mounted corner shelves work but look and function poorly compared to a properly built niche. Plan niche placement for the height and items you’ll actually store there: shampoo bottles are taller than you think.
Timeline, Budget, and Warranty
13. How long will this remodel take from start to finish?
Realistic timelines based on scope:
Cosmetic refresh (fixtures, paint, accessories): 1 to 2 weeks. Midrange remodel (new tub/shower, vanity, tile, flooring): 3 to 6 weeks. Full gut renovation (layout change, new everything): 6 to 10 weeks.
Custom tile patterns, specialty fixtures with long lead times, and permit-related inspections can extend these timelines. Ask for a phase-by-phase schedule: demolition, rough plumbing and electrical, waterproofing, tile, vanity and fixtures, paint, and final cleanup. Know which phases require inspection sign-off before the next phase can begin.
14. What does this estimate include, and what’s excluded?
Read the estimate line by line. Confirm that it covers: demolition and haul-away, rough plumbing, rough electrical, waterproofing, tile (supply and installation), flooring, vanity (supply and installation), toilet, fixtures (faucets, showerhead, accessories), mirror or medicine cabinet, exhaust fan, paint, cleanup, and permit fees.
Common exclusions that catch people off guard: towel bars and accessories, the mirror, painting, flooring outside the bathroom if it needs transitioning, door hardware, and window treatments. If something isn’t on the estimate, it’s not included. Ask about everything.
15. What is the payment schedule?
A standard bathroom remodel payment structure: 10% to 20% deposit at contract signing, 30% at demolition or material delivery, 30% at tile/fixture installation, and the final 10% to 20% at walkthrough and punch list completion.
Hold that final payment until you’ve inspected every detail: grout lines, caulk joints, fixture operation, drain function, fan operation, door clearance, and finish quality. This is your leverage. A contractor who demands full payment before the walkthrough isn’t giving you the opportunity to catch problems while they’re still on-site to fix them.
16. What warranty do you offer on the work?
Bathroom remodels involve multiple trades (plumbing, electrical, tile, carpentry), and each element should be backed by a warranty. Ask for specifics: how long is the workmanship warranty? What does it cover? What happens if tile cracks, grout fails, or a plumbing connection leaks within the warranty period?
One year minimum on workmanship. Two to five years is better. Plumbing fixtures typically carry a manufacturer warranty of one to five years. Tile itself is nearly indestructible, but installation workmanship (bonding, grouting, waterproofing) is where failures occur. Get the warranty details in writing before the project starts.
17. What’s your process for the final walkthrough and punch list?
The final walkthrough is your opportunity to flag anything that isn’t right before releasing your final payment. Chipped tile, uneven grout, caulk gaps, a slow drain, a squeaky fan, a wobbly toilet, a vanity door that doesn’t close flush: all of these are legitimate punch-list items.
Ask the contractor: How soon after completion do we do the walkthrough? How quickly will punch-list items be addressed? What if we disagree about whether something needs fixing? A professional contractor welcomes this process because they’re proud of their work. One who tries to rush past the walkthrough or minimize your concerns has likely cut corners you haven’t noticed yet.
What to Mention or Send Beforehand
Share these details with each contractor before the estimate appointment:
- Photos and measurements of the current bathroom. Every angle, plus shots of under the vanity, the ceiling vent, and any visible damage. Include a rough sketch with dimensions.
- Your scope and budget range. Be direct about what you want to accomplish and what you’re prepared to spend. This helps the contractor design to your reality, not their ideal.
- Your must-have features. Heated floor? Curbless shower? Double vanity? Specify what’s non-negotiable so the estimate reflects your priorities.
- Inspiration photos. Images that show your preferred style: tile patterns, vanity styles, fixture finishes, color palette.
- Any accessibility needs, current or anticipated. Grab bars, comfort-height toilet, wider doorway, curbless entry. Better to plan for these now than add them later.
Typical Cost Range and Factors
Bathroom remodel costs vary by scope, size, materials, and location. Here’s what to expect nationally:
Cosmetic refresh (half bath or powder room): $3,000 to $8,000. New vanity, toilet, faucet, mirror, paint, and accessories.
Midrange full bath remodel: $15,000 to $35,000. New tub/shower, tile surround, vanity, toilet, flooring, fixtures, and lighting. Keeps existing layout.
High-end master bath renovation: $35,000 to $75,000+. Layout change, walk-in shower with custom tile, freestanding tub, double vanity, heated floors, upgraded lighting and ventilation.
Key cost drivers:
- Tile. Material and labor combined. Simple subway tile costs $8 to $15/sq ft installed. Large-format porcelain runs $12 to $25/sq ft. Natural stone hits $20 to $50/sq ft. Complex patterns add labor cost.
- Plumbing changes. Keeping fixtures in place: $500 to $2,000. Moving fixtures: $2,000 to $7,000+.
- Vanity. Stock vanity with top: $300 to $1,500. Semi-custom: $1,000 to $3,000. Custom: $3,000 to $8,000+.
- Shower/tub. Prefab acrylic insert: $1,000 to $3,000 installed. Custom tile shower: $5,000 to $15,000+.
- Flooring. Porcelain tile is $6 to $15/sq ft installed. Luxury vinyl is $4 to $10/sq ft. Heated floor mats add $8 to $15/sq ft.
- Labor. Metro areas run 20% to 50% above rural rates.
Red Flags vs. Green Flags
| Red Flag | Green Flag |
|---|---|
| Can’t explain their waterproofing method in detail. This is the most critical step in a bathroom remodel. | Describes the specific waterproofing products and process they’ll use, including coverage areas. |
| Gives a vague verbal estimate without measuring the space or asking about your goals. | Takes detailed measurements, asks about your priorities and budget, and delivers a written itemized estimate. |
| No references from recent bathroom projects. | Provides references and photos from completed bathroom remodels similar in scope to yours. |
| Pushes back on permits. “It’s just a bathroom, you don’t need one.” | Pulls permits as standard practice and treats inspections as quality assurance. |
| Wants 50%+ payment upfront before demolition. | Payment tied to milestones, with 10-20% held until final walkthrough. |
| Dismisses your accessibility or ventilation questions. | Proactively discusses ventilation upgrades and universal design options. |
| No written contract or warranty terms. | Detailed contract covering scope, materials, timeline, payment, and warranty. |
Money-Saving Tips
- Keep the plumbing layout. Every fixture you move adds $1,000 to $3,000+ in plumbing costs. If the layout works, upgrade the finishes instead.
- Choose porcelain tile that mimics marble. Modern porcelain tiles convincingly replicate the look of marble, carrara, and calacatta at a fraction of the cost and with zero maintenance. No sealing required.
- Go with a stock vanity from a quality brand. Companies like Ikea, Home Depot’s Glacier Bay, and Allen + Roth offer solid vanities with soft-close drawers for $400 to $1,200. Custom vanities start at $3,000+.
- Install a prefab shower pan with tile walls. A custom-tiled shower floor costs $2,000 to $4,000+ for the mud bed, waterproofing, and small mosaic tile. A quality prefab pan ($300 to $800) with tile walls above saves thousands while still looking great.
- Limit the accent tile. A decorative accent strip or feature wall using premium tile looks intentional and high-end without tiling the entire shower in $30/sq ft material. Use the premium tile strategically and fill the rest with complementary, less expensive tile.
- Do your own demolition. Ripping out an old vanity, toilet, and tile is dirty work but not complicated. Confirm with your contractor first, and avoid damaging plumbing or electrical in the walls.
- Buy your own fixtures and accessories. Shop sales for bathroom faucets, showerheads, towel bars, and toilet paper holders. Contractors often mark up these items 20% to 40%.
Quick Reference Checklist
Bring this to every bathroom remodel consultation:
- Should I change the layout, or keep plumbing where it is?
- Tub, shower, or both?
- What structural limitations should I know about?
- What’s the condition of the existing plumbing?
- How will the shower and tub area be waterproofed?
- What drain system and slope method will you use?
- What tile do you recommend for shower walls and floor?
- What are my flooring options?
- Is the exhaust fan adequate?
- What electrical work is needed?
- Should I include accessibility features?
- What storage solutions should I plan for?
- How long will this take?
- What does the estimate include and exclude?
- What is the payment schedule?
- What warranty do you offer?
- How do you handle the walkthrough and punch list?
Glossary
- Curbless shower (zero-entry): A shower design with no raised threshold or curb at the entry. The entire bathroom floor slopes gently toward the shower drain. Popular for accessibility and modern aesthetics, but requires precise waterproofing and slope work.
- Waterproof membrane: A barrier applied to the shower walls and floor (either sheet or liquid) that prevents water from penetrating behind the tile and into the wall structure. Failure of this membrane leads to mold, rot, and expensive repairs.
- GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter): A safety outlet that cuts power when it detects electrical current flowing through an unintended path, like water. Required by code in all bathroom outlets. Recognizable by the “Test” and “Reset” buttons.
- Comfort-height toilet: A toilet with a seat height of 17 to 19 inches, compared to the standard 15 inches. Easier on the knees and more comfortable for most adults. Also called “right height” or “ADA height” by various manufacturers.
- Shower niche: A recessed shelf built into the shower wall between or beside studs, providing storage for soap, shampoo, and other items without taking up shower floor space. Must be properly waterproofed as part of the shower membrane system.
Helpful Tools and Resources
A large-format rain showerhead transforms the shower experience. If you're buying fixtures yourself (saving the contractor's 20% to 40% markup), this is one of the most impactful upgrades for the money.
Good vanity lighting is one of the most overlooked upgrades in a bathroom remodel. LED fixtures provide even, flattering light for grooming and add a modern look without high energy costs.
If you're doing any tile work yourself, a leveling system with clips and wedges ensures flat, even tiles with consistent spacing. Professional tilers use these, and they cost very little.
A fresh remodel is a good time to replace your old scale. Modern digital scales are slim, accurate, and fit the clean aesthetic of a newly renovated bathroom.
- NKBA (National Kitchen and Bath Association): Find certified bathroom designers and access planning guidelines for layout, ventilation, and fixture spacing.
- Houzz Bathroom Ideas: Thousands of real bathroom photos filtered by style, size, and budget. Great for gathering inspiration images to share with your contractor.
- Tile Council of North America (TCNA): Industry standards for tile installation, including waterproofing methods and slip resistance ratings. Useful if you want to verify that your contractor’s methods meet professional standards.
- Better Business Bureau: Check complaint history, customer reviews, and accreditation for any remodeling contractor.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does a bathroom remodel typically take?
A cosmetic refresh (new vanity, toilet, paint, fixtures) takes 1 to 2 weeks. A midrange remodel with new tile, tub/shower, and flooring runs 3 to 6 weeks. A full gut renovation with layout changes takes 6 to 10 weeks. Custom tile, specialty orders, and inspection scheduling can extend these timelines. Build at least a one-week buffer into your expectations.
Can I use my bathroom during the remodel?
Not the one being remodeled. The toilet, sink, and shower/tub will all be disconnected during construction. If you only have one bathroom, discuss staging options with your contractor. Some can keep the toilet functional for longer by phasing the work. For multi-day projects where the toilet is out of commission, you may need to arrange a temporary solution (a neighbor’s bathroom, a porta-potty, or a gym membership for showers).
Is heated flooring worth the cost?
For most people, yes. Electric radiant floor heating adds $8 to $15 per square foot for materials and installation during a remodel. In a 50-square-foot bathroom, that’s $400 to $750 for a feature you’ll appreciate every winter morning. The operating cost is roughly $0.25 to $0.50 per day for a typical bathroom. It’s extremely inexpensive to install during a remodel and very expensive to add later, so if there’s any chance you’d want it, now is the time.
Do I need a permit for a bathroom remodel?
Cosmetic changes (paint, new vanity, replacing fixtures) generally don’t need a permit. Any work involving plumbing changes (moving a drain, rerouting supply lines), electrical changes (new circuits, moving outlets), or structural modifications (removing a wall, widening a doorway) requires a permit in most jurisdictions. Your contractor should handle the permit process and include the fees in the estimate.
How do I choose between a prefab shower and a custom tile shower?
Budget is the biggest factor. A quality acrylic or fiberglass prefab shower unit costs $1,000 to $3,000 installed and offers reliable waterproofing in a low-maintenance package. A custom tile shower costs $5,000 to $15,000+ but offers unlimited design options, premium materials, and a high-end look. If your budget allows, custom tile is the more durable and visually impressive choice. If you’re working with a tighter budget, a good prefab unit looks perfectly fine and eliminates waterproofing concerns.
Next Steps
Get estimates from at least three contractors who specialize in (or have strong experience with) bathroom remodels. Use this checklist to compare their approach to waterproofing, ventilation, and tile work, not just their bottom-line price. The contractor who explains their waterproofing process in detail, addresses ventilation proactively, and provides a thorough written estimate is the one most likely to deliver a bathroom that holds up for decades.
For related guidance, see our Questions to Ask Before a Kitchen Remodel and our Complete Guide to Hiring Home Service Professionals.