Last year, a friend of mine paid $2,400 for a water line repair that should’ve cost $900. The plumber showed up fast, seemed confident, and gave a verbal quote. My friend said yes because the pipe was leaking and he just wanted it fixed. No written estimate. No second opinion. No questions asked.
That’s how most people get burned. Not by scam artists, but by rushing. Knowing the right questions to ask before hiring a plumber is the single easiest way to protect yourself, and it costs you nothing but ten minutes on the phone.
These 23 questions cover licensing, pricing, warranties, and everything in between. Save this page, pull it up on your phone when you’re calling around, and let the answers do the filtering for you.
Before You Contact a Plumber
Do these five things before you pick up the phone. They’ll make every conversation faster and help you spot bad answers immediately:
- Identify the problem as specifically as you can. Is it a leak, a clog, no hot water, low pressure, or a sewer smell? The more detail you give, the more accurate the estimate you’ll get back.
- Locate your main water shutoff valve. If you’ve got an active leak, shutting off the water prevents further damage and buys you time to make calls without panicking. If you don’t already have one, a water leak detector placed under sinks and near the water heater can alert you to leaks before they cause serious damage.
- Check if you can see the problem area. Look under sinks, around the water heater, and near exposed pipes. Note any visible corrosion, water stains, or dripping. Take photos.
- Gather your homeowner’s insurance info. Some plumbing failures (burst pipes, slab leaks, sudden water damage) may be covered. Knowing your deductible and coverage limits helps you make smarter decisions.
- Get at least three plumber names ready to call. Ask neighbors, check Google reviews, or pull from your local NextDoor group. Never call just one plumber when you’re under pressure. That’s how you overpay.
Licensing and Credentials
1. Are you licensed to do plumbing work in this state and municipality?
Honestly, if a plumber won’t give you a license number, walk away. Full stop. An unlicensed plumber might be perfectly handy, but their work can blow up in your face when you try to sell your home, file an insurance claim, or pass inspection. Every state has a licensing board website where you can punch in a number and verify it in under a minute. Do that. “I’ve been doing this for years” isn’t a license.
2. Do you carry liability insurance and workers’ compensation?
Picture this: an uninsured plumber floods your basement or falls off a ladder on your property. Guess who’s on the hook? You are. A legit plumber will hand over a certificate of insurance without blinking. If someone says “don’t worry about it,” that’s exactly when you should worry.
3. How long have you been in business, and do you have references for jobs like mine?
Experience matters, but experience with your specific type of job matters more. A plumber who installs water heaters all day isn’t necessarily your best pick for a sewer line replacement. Ask for references on similar work and actually call one or two. Also check Google reviews. Not just the star rating, but the patterns. Are people consistently mentioning the same problems?
Tip: Three to five years in business is a reasonable minimum. Anything less and you’re taking a bigger gamble.
4. Are you a master plumber or a journeyman, and who will actually do the work?
Here’s a trick some companies pull: they send a master plumber for the estimate (impressive credentials, great sales pitch), then dispatch a journeyman or apprentice to do the actual work. There’s nothing wrong with journeymen; they’re trained and licensed. But you deserve to know upfront who’s turning the wrenches.
5. Do you pull permits when the job requires them?
Any job involving water lines, sewer lines, water heaters, or major remodels usually needs a permit. Skipping it might save $100 today and cost you $5,000 tomorrow in fines, failed inspections, or voided insurance. If a plumber suggests skipping the permit “to save you money,” they’re saving themselves hassle, not saving you anything.
Pricing and Payment
6. Do you charge a flat rate or by the hour?
Neither one is inherently better. Hourly can spiral if the job hits surprises. Flat rate gives you certainty but sometimes includes padding. You just need to know what you’re agreeing to before anyone picks up a wrench.
For hourly jobs, ask for a time estimate and a cap. For flat rate, ask the magic question: “Does this price hold if the scope changes, or will I get a change order?“
7. What does your estimate include, and what could cause the price to change?
A $200 estimate that turns into a $600 invoice is one of the most common plumbing complaints I’ve come across. The gap almost always comes from parts, permit fees, or “unforeseen conditions behind the wall.” Get a written estimate that itemizes labor, materials, and fees. Then ask directly: “Under what circumstances would the final bill be higher than this number?”
Write down the answer. Seriously.
8. Is there a service call fee or diagnostic charge, and does it apply toward the repair?
Most plumbers charge $50 to $150 just to show up and look at your problem. Some apply that fee toward the repair if you hire them. Others pocket it either way. Neither approach is shady, but you need to know which one you’re dealing with before they’re standing in your kitchen.
9. What forms of payment do you accept, and do you require a deposit?
Payment terms tell you a lot about how professional the operation is. Flexible options (credit card, check, financing) are a good sign. A deposit of 10-30% on a large job is perfectly normal.
Watch for this: Anyone demanding full payment before starting work. That’s a risk you don’t need to take.
10. Do you offer financing for large jobs?
A sewer line replacement or whole-house repipe can run $5,000 to $15,000. That’s not pocket change. Many reputable plumbers offer third-party financing. If they do, ask about the APR, monthly payment, and the total cost over the life of the loan. Read the terms before you sign anything.
Scope of Work and Process
11. What exactly is wrong, and what are my options to fix it?
A good plumber explains what’s broken in plain English and gives you choices. Not just the expensive option. If someone jumps straight to the costliest fix without walking you through alternatives, they’re either lazy or upselling.
You should hear at least two options with rough price differences and honest tradeoffs.
12. What materials and brands will you use?
Cheap parts fail sooner. But you don’t always need the premium option either. The point is: you deserve to know what’s going into your walls. Ask for specific brand names. “Standard parts” is not an answer. A plumber who cares about their work will happily tell you why they chose one fitting over another.
13. How long will the job take, and will I be without water?
A faucet repair takes an hour. A sewer line replacement could take three days. Big difference in how you plan your week. Ask specifically about water shutoffs: how long, and whether they can stage the work to minimize the time your family goes without running water.
14. Will you need to cut into walls, floors, or ceilings?
Most people don’t ask this, and then they’re genuinely shocked when the plumber starts sawing through drywall. Even more shocking? Patching that drywall often isn’t included in the estimate. Ask upfront what surfaces they’ll need to access and whether repair of those surfaces is part of the price. If it’s not, factor that cost in.
15. Who handles cleanup and disposal of old materials?
That old water heater or pile of corroded pipes has to go somewhere. Some plumbers include haul-away and cleanup in the price. Others leave everything sitting in your garage. Ask before they start, and confirm they’ll protect your floors and furniture during the work.
Warranty and Guarantees
16. What warranty do you offer on your labor?
If a fitting they installed starts leaking six months later because it was done wrong, a labor warranty means they fix it free. One year is the bare minimum you should accept. Many reputable plumbers offer two years or more. Get it in writing. Verbal warranties are worth exactly nothing when you’ve got water dripping through your ceiling.
17. What warranty comes with the parts and equipment?
Here’s something most homeowners don’t realize: a water heater might carry a 6-year or 12-year manufacturer warranty, but only if it’s installed to the manufacturer’s specs. Sloppy installation can void the whole thing. Ask about the specific warranty length, confirm the install will meet manufacturer requirements, and find out who handles claims: the plumber or the manufacturer.
18. What happens if something goes wrong after the job is done?
This question separates the pros from the rest. What you want to hear: no charge for return visits within the warranty period, a reasonable response time, and an actual phone number for emergencies. What you don’t want to hear: silence, deflection, or “just call the office.”
19. Will this work pass a code inspection?
Plumbing that doesn’t meet local building codes creates safety hazards now and headaches later when you sell. Your plumber should give you a confident yes and know the current codes for your area. If the job requires an inspection, they should handle scheduling it, not leave it to you.
Logistics and Communication
20. When can you start, and what is your availability for emergencies?
A plumber booked out two weeks won’t help if your basement is flooding tonight. Get an honest timeline. And ask about after-hours availability now, before you need it at 2 a.m. on a Saturday. Weekend and evening calls typically cost 1.5x to 2x the standard rate, which is fair, but you should know that number before you’re desperate.
21. How will you communicate with me during the job?
On bigger jobs, communication breakdowns cause more frustration than the actual plumbing work. Ask for a defined contact method and update schedule. For multi-day projects, end-of-day updates and a single point of contact make an enormous difference. You shouldn’t have to chase someone down to find out what’s happening in your own house.
22. Do you guarantee your arrival time, and what is your policy if you’re running late?
The infamous four-hour arrival window. Few things in life are more annoying than blowing an entire workday waiting for someone who shows up at 3:47 p.m. Ask for a two-hour window or less, and ask if they’ll call or text when they’re running behind. “On my way” notifications are a small thing that separates well-run operations from everyone else.
23. Can I get everything we discussed in writing before work begins?
Verbal agreements lead to disputes. Period. A written agreement should include the scope of work, total cost, payment terms, warranty details, and expected timeline. If a plumber resists putting things in writing, that tells you everything you need to know about how they’ll handle a disagreement later.
What to Mention or Send Beforehand
Before the plumber arrives, share these details by phone, text, or email. It speeds up the diagnosis and helps them bring the right parts:
- Describe the symptom, not your guess. Say “there’s water pooling under the kitchen sink” instead of “I think the P-trap is broken.” Let the pro diagnose.
- Send photos of the problem area. A quick picture of the leak, the corroded pipe, or the water heater label gives the plumber a head start before they’re even on-site.
- Mention the age of your home and plumbing. Older homes (pre-1980) may have galvanized steel or even lead pipes, which changes the approach entirely.
- Let them know about access issues. Is the problem behind a finished wall? In a crawl space? Under a concrete slab? This affects how long the job takes and what equipment they’ll need to bring.
- Share any recent work done on the system. If another plumber worked on the same area six months ago, that’s relevant. It might be a warranty issue, not a new problem.
Typical Cost Range and Factors
Here’s what you should expect to pay for common plumbing jobs in 2026. These are national averages, and your area may run higher or lower:
Common repairs:
- Leaky faucet or fixture: $150 - $350
- Clogged drain (snaking): $150 - $300
- Toilet repair or replacement: $200 - $500
- Water heater repair: $150 - $600
Mid-range jobs:
- Water heater replacement (tank): $1,200 - $2,800
- Sump pump installation: $800 - $1,500
- Garbage disposal replacement: $250 - $500
Major jobs:
- Sewer line repair or replacement: $2,500 - $10,000+
- Whole-house repipe: $5,000 - $15,000
- Slab leak repair: $2,000 - $6,000
What drives the price up or down:
- Your location. Metro areas cost 20-40% more than rural areas for the same work.
- Hourly vs. flat rate. Hourly can spiral on complicated jobs; flat rate includes some padding for unknowns.
- Permit and inspection fees. Usually $50-$300 depending on your municipality.
- Emergency or after-hours service. Expect 1.5x to 2x the standard rate for nights, weekends, and holidays.
- Access difficulty. A water heater in a wide-open basement is a different job than one stuffed in a second-floor closet.
- Materials and brand. Budget fixtures vs. mid-range vs. premium: the price difference between brands can be 2-3x.
Quick Reference Checklist
Pull this up on your phone when you’re ready to start calling plumbers:
- Are you licensed in this state and municipality?
- Do you carry liability insurance and workers’ comp?
- How long have you been in business, and can you share references?
- Who will actually do the work: master plumber or journeyman?
- Do you pull permits when required?
- Do you charge flat rate or hourly?
- What does the estimate include, and what could change the price?
- Is there a service call or diagnostic fee?
- What payment methods do you accept, and is a deposit required?
- Do you offer financing for large jobs?
- What exactly is wrong, and what are my repair options?
- What materials and brands will you use?
- How long will the job take, and will I lose water?
- Will you need to cut into walls, floors, or ceilings?
- Who handles cleanup and disposal?
- What warranty do you offer on labor?
- What warranty comes with parts and equipment?
- What happens if something goes wrong after the job?
- Will this work pass a code inspection?
- When can you start, and what is your emergency availability?
- How will you communicate updates during the job?
- Do you guarantee your arrival time?
- Can I get everything in writing before work starts?
Red Flags vs. Green Flags
| Red Flag | Green Flag |
|---|---|
| No license number or refusal to share it | Gives you a license number upfront and encourages you to verify it |
| No insurance, or “I’ll take care of it” | Emails you a certificate of insurance without hesitation |
| Demands full payment upfront | Asks for a reasonable deposit (10-30%) with the balance due on completion |
| Pressure to decide immediately (“this price is only good today”) | Written estimate that holds for at least 30 days |
| Refuses to provide a written estimate | Provides itemized, written quotes with labor, parts, and fees broken out |
| Suggests skipping the permit | Pulls permits as a matter of course and schedules inspections |
| Dramatically lower price than everyone else | Price falls within the range of other quotes, with no mystery discounts |
| Can’t explain the problem in plain language | Walks you through the diagnosis step by step in terms you understand |
Money-Saving Tips
- Get three quotes, minimum. This isn’t just about finding the cheapest price. It’s about seeing the range. When three plumbers quote $2,800-$3,400 and one quotes $1,100, you know something’s off with that low number.
- Ask if the diagnostic fee applies toward the repair. Many plumbers credit the $75-$150 service call fee if you hire them. That’s free money you leave on the table if you don’t ask.
- Bundle jobs when possible. If you’re already paying a service call fee for a leaky faucet, ask about that running toilet or slow drain while they’re there. Most plumbers will discount additional work done in the same visit.
- Don’t pay for emergency rates if you don’t have an emergency. A dripping faucet is annoying, not urgent. Schedule it during regular business hours and save 50-100% on the labor premium.
- Maintain your plumbing to avoid expensive surprises. Flush your water heater annually, inspect exposed pipes for corrosion, and never pour grease down the drain. A $100 maintenance visit beats a $3,000 emergency repair every time. Keeping a roll of plumber’s tape on hand lets you handle small threaded-joint drips yourself.
- Check your homeowner’s insurance before paying out of pocket. Sudden water damage from burst pipes or failed water heaters is often covered. You might only owe a deductible instead of the full repair bill.
Helpful Tools and Resources
A basic pipe wrench is handy for tightening loose fittings and shutting off stubborn valves in an emergency. Worth having before you actually need it.
Place these under sinks, near the water heater, and by the washing machine. They alert your phone the moment water is detected, giving you time to act before damage spreads.
A basic hand-crank drain snake ($15 to $30) clears most sink and shower clogs without calling a plumber. Pays for itself on the first use.
A $3 roll of Teflon tape stops small drips at threaded connections. Every homeowner should have this in the toolbox for quick fixes.
- EPA WaterSense Program: Find water-efficient fixtures and learn how to reduce water waste. Useful when upgrading fixtures or replacing a water heater.
- Better Business Bureau (BBB): Check complaint history and ratings on any plumbing company before you hire. Look for patterns, not just scores.
- Your State’s Contractor Licensing Board: Every state has a searchable database where you can verify a plumber’s license, check for disciplinary actions, and confirm insurance status. Start at USA.gov to find your state’s specific portal.
Next Steps
You’ve got the questions. Now call at least three plumbers, run through this checklist with each one, and compare the answers side by side. The right plumber will welcome your questions, and the wrong one will dodge them. That contrast alone tells you who deserves the job.
For more help with your home, check out our guides on Questions to Ask a Plumber About a Water Heater That’s Not Heating, Questions to Ask a Plumber About a Kitchen Sink Leak, and Questions to Ask Before Hiring an HVAC Technician. You can also browse our full Home Services Checklist Hub for every question you need before hiring any contractor.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many plumbers should I get quotes from?
Three is the sweet spot. It gives you a realistic price range for your area and makes outliers obvious, both the suspiciously cheap and the absurdly expensive. Just make sure each plumber is quoting the same scope of work. Comparing a quote that includes permits and cleanup to one that doesn’t is useless.
Should I hire the cheapest plumber?
Not automatically. I’ve seen the cheapest quote win the job and then the final bill come in higher than anyone else’s estimate. Low prices often mean cheaper materials, less experienced workers, or missing line items that show up as “extras” on the invoice. Compare total value: license status, warranty length, materials quality, and what’s included, not just the bottom-line number.
What is a fair hourly rate for a plumber in 2026?
Licensed plumbers typically charge $75 to $200 per hour depending on where you live and how complex the job is. Major metro areas skew higher. Emergency and after-hours calls usually carry a premium of 1.5x to 2x the standard rate. That’s industry standard, not a ripoff.
Do plumbers need to pull a permit for every job?
No. Minor repairs like fixing a leaky faucet, unclogging a drain, or swapping out a toilet usually don’t need a permit. But work involving water line installation, sewer line replacement, water heater installation, or rerouting pipes almost always does. Your plumber should know the specific requirements in your municipality without you having to Google it.
What should I do if a plumber did bad work?
Start by contacting the plumber directly and giving them a chance to make it right under their warranty. Document everything first: photos, texts, invoices, the original written agreement. If they refuse or ghost you, file a complaint with your state licensing board and leave an honest review. For significant financial losses, a consumer protection attorney is worth the consultation.
Glossary
P-Trap: The U-shaped pipe under your sink that holds a small amount of water at all times. That water acts as a seal to prevent sewer gases from coming back up through the drain into your home. If you smell rotten eggs near a sink that doesn’t get used much, the P-trap has probably dried out. Just run the water for 30 seconds to refill it.
Shutoff Valve: A valve that stops water flow to a specific fixture or to your entire house. Every toilet, sink, and water heater should have one. Know where yours are before you have an emergency. Turning off the shutoff valve is the fastest way to stop a leak from becoming a flood.
Backflow Preventer: A device that stops contaminated water from flowing backwards into your clean water supply. Required by code in many areas, especially if you have an irrigation system, boiler, or any cross-connection. Your plumber should check it annually.
Snake/Auger: A flexible metal cable with a corkscrew tip that plumbers feed into a drain to break up or pull out clogs. A basic hand snake handles most sink and shower clogs. A motorized auger is used for tougher blockages in main sewer lines. Snaking a drain typically costs $150-$300, far cheaper than the $500+ for hydro-jetting.