Electrical work is one area where cutting corners can burn your house down. That’s not hyperbole. Faulty wiring is one of the leading causes of residential fires in the United States. So the questions to ask before hiring an electrician aren’t just about getting a fair price. They’re about safety, code compliance, and making sure the person wiring your home actually knows what they’re doing.
These 18 questions cover licensing, panel capacity, code requirements, permits, and everything else you should know before handing someone the keys to your electrical system. Whether you need a simple outlet installed or a full panel upgrade, this checklist has you covered.
Before You Contact an Electrician
A little prep work makes every phone call and estimate appointment more productive:
- Describe the problem or project as specifically as you can. “The outlet in the kitchen sparks when I plug something in” is much more helpful than “something’s wrong with my electrical.” Specific descriptions lead to accurate estimates.
- Note the age of your home and any known electrical work. Homes built before 1970 may have knob-and-tube wiring or aluminum branch wiring, both of which affect the scope (and cost) of any electrical project.
- Check your electrical panel. Look at the main breaker for the amperage rating (typically 100, 150, or 200 amps). Note whether breaker slots are full, and write down any breakers that frequently trip. A simple outlet tester ($10 to $15) can tell you which outlets have wiring problems before the electrician arrives.
- Make a list of everything you want done. If you’re thinking about adding outlets, upgrading the panel, installing a ceiling fan, or wiring for an EV charger, put it all on one list. Bundling work saves money.
- Verify your state’s licensing requirements. Most states require electricians to hold a specific license. A quick search for “[your state] electrician license lookup” gives you the verification tool you’ll need.
Licensing, Insurance, and Credentials
1. Are you a licensed electrician, and what type of license do you hold?
Electrical licensing varies by state, but there are generally three tiers: apprentice, journeyman, and master electrician. A journeyman can perform most residential work independently. A master electrician has additional training and can pull permits, design electrical systems, and supervise other electricians.
Ask for the license number and verify it yourself through your state’s licensing board. This takes two minutes online. If someone can’t produce a license number or claims they “don’t need one,” end the conversation. Unlicensed electrical work can cause fires, void your insurance, and create serious problems when you sell your home.
2. Do you carry general liability insurance and workers’ compensation?
If an uninsured electrician damages your home or gets injured on your property, you could be financially responsible. General liability covers damage to your property. Workers’ comp covers injuries to the electrician and any helpers.
Don’t just accept a printed certificate. Call the insurance company listed on the certificate and verify the policy is active. Policies lapse, and some contractors hand out expired documents hoping you won’t check. You want at least $1 million in general liability.
3. How long have you been doing electrical work, and can I see references for similar projects?
Experience matters, but experience with your type of project matters more. An electrician who specializes in new construction may not be the best fit for troubleshooting a 1950s home with original wiring. Ask for references on work similar to yours and follow up on at least one or two.
Five or more years in business under the same name is a solid benchmark. Fewer years isn’t automatically disqualifying, but dig deeper into the electrician’s training background and apprenticeship history.
Scope of Work and Technical Questions
4. What is my electrical panel’s current capacity, and is it enough for what I need?
This question matters more than most people realize. If your panel is a 100-amp service (common in homes built before the 1980s) and you’re adding an EV charger, a hot tub, or a kitchen full of new appliances, you may need a panel upgrade to 200 amps before any of that work can happen.
A good electrician will evaluate your current panel, calculate the load of your existing circuits plus whatever you’re adding, and tell you honestly whether the panel can handle it. If it can’t, they should explain the upgrade options and costs ($1,500 to $4,000 for a typical panel upgrade to 200 amps).
5. Is my home’s existing wiring up to current code?
Building codes evolve constantly. A home that was up to code when it was built in 1985 may not meet today’s standards. That doesn’t necessarily mean you need to rewire the whole house, but any new work your electrician does must comply with the current National Electrical Code (NEC) and local amendments.
Specific things to ask about: Are GFCI outlets required in my kitchen, bathrooms, and garage? Do I need AFCI protection on bedroom circuits? Is my grounding system adequate? These code requirements exist to prevent electrocution and fires. An electrician who brushes off code questions isn’t someone you want working in your walls.
6. What work specifically needs to be done, and what are my options?
You’re paying for expertise, so get a clear explanation. The electrician should walk you through the problem or project in plain language, explain what needs to happen, and present options where they exist. “You need a new panel” isn’t enough. You want to hear why, what size, what it involves, and what alternatives exist.
For troubleshooting jobs, ask what they think is causing the problem before they start opening walls. Their initial diagnosis tells you a lot about their experience level. A seasoned electrician can often narrow down the cause from your description of the symptoms alone.
7. How many circuits will this project require, and will you need to add any to the panel?
Every circuit has a capacity limit. Adding a 240-volt EV charger, a kitchen island with outlets, or a workshop with power tools may require dedicated circuits. If your panel is already full, that could mean adding a sub-panel or upgrading the main panel.
The electrician should explain exactly how many new circuits are needed, whether the panel has room for them, and what happens if it doesn’t. This is where costs can jump unexpectedly, so getting clarity upfront prevents sticker shock on the invoice.
8. Will you need to run new wiring through walls, attic, or crawl space?
Running new wire isn’t just about the electrical work. It often involves drilling through studs, fishing wire through finished walls, accessing the attic, or working in a crawl space. The difficulty of the wire run affects both cost and timeline.
Ask where the new wiring will go and whether any drywall needs to be opened and patched. Some electricians include patching in their price; many don’t. If you’ll need a drywall repair after the electrical work is done, factor that into your total budget. Attic runs are usually less disruptive (no drywall holes), but they require adequate access and can be more difficult in homes with low attic clearance or heavy insulation.
Permits, Inspections, and Code Compliance
9. Does this job require a permit, and will you pull it?
Most electrical work beyond swapping a light fixture or replacing an outlet requires a permit. Panel upgrades, new circuits, rewiring, and any work involving the service entrance absolutely require one. The permit triggers an inspection by your local building department, which verifies the work meets code.
Your electrician should pull the permit as a standard part of the job. The cost is typically $50 to $300 depending on the scope and your municipality. If an electrician suggests skipping the permit, that’s a disqualifying red flag. Unpermitted electrical work creates fire hazards, complicates home sales, and can void your insurance.
10. Will the work be inspected, and what does that process look like?
When a permit is pulled, an inspection follows. The inspector checks that the work meets the National Electrical Code and any local amendments. In some jurisdictions, there’s a rough-in inspection (before walls are closed up) and a final inspection.
Ask the electrician whether they’ll schedule the inspection or if that’s your responsibility. Most handle it themselves. Find out if you need to be home during the inspection, and what happens if the inspector requires changes. A professional electrician builds inspection-ready work from the start, so corrections should be rare.
11. Are there any code upgrades I should address while you’re here?
Since your electrician is already in your walls (or panel), this is the cheapest time to address other code deficiencies. Upgrading ungrounded outlets, adding GFCI protection in wet areas, installing AFCI breakers on bedroom circuits, or replacing an outdated panel can all be done more cost-effectively when combined with other work.
A thoughtful electrician will proactively flag items they notice during the job. That’s not upselling. That’s looking out for your safety and saving you money on a future service call. If they mention something, ask for a price to add it to the current scope.
Pricing, Timeline, and Payment
12. Do you charge by the hour or by the job, and what does the estimate include?
Electricians typically charge $75 to $200 per hour, or they quote a flat rate for defined projects. Neither method is inherently better. Hourly works well for diagnostic and troubleshooting work where the scope is uncertain. Flat rate gives you price certainty for well-defined projects like a panel upgrade or adding outlets.
For hourly work, ask for a time estimate and a not-to-exceed cap. For flat-rate work, ask what’s included (materials, labor, permit fees, cleanup) and what could cause the price to change. Get everything in a written estimate.
13. What materials will you use, and are they included in the price?
Electrical materials vary in quality. Copper wiring vs. aluminum (for branch circuits, copper is standard). Breaker brand matching your panel. Wire gauge appropriate for the circuit’s amperage. Commercial-grade outlets vs. residential-grade.
Ask the electrician to specify the wire type and gauge, breaker brand, outlet/switch grade, and any specialty components. Materials should be itemized in the estimate. If they’re using a different brand of breaker than your panel manufacturer (not recommended), ask why.
14. How long will this project take, and when can you start?
A simple outlet installation might take an hour. A full panel upgrade is typically a full day. Rewiring a room could take two to three days. Whole-house rewiring runs one to two weeks.
Get a specific start date and an estimated completion date. Ask how they handle delays and whether the work will require shutting off power to part or all of your home. For panel upgrades, there’s usually a planned power outage of four to eight hours while the utility disconnects and reconnects service. Plan accordingly.
15. What is your payment structure?
Reasonable payment terms for electrical work: no deposit or a small deposit (10% to 25%) for larger jobs, with the balance due upon completion. For small jobs under $1,000, payment at completion is standard.
Full payment upfront is never acceptable. It removes all your leverage if something goes wrong. Cash-only demands are another warning sign. Legitimate electricians accept multiple payment methods and put their terms in writing.
Warranty and Follow-Up
16. What warranty do you offer on your workmanship?
Electrical work should be done right the first time. But if a connection fails, a breaker trips repeatedly, or an issue surfaces after the walls are closed up, you need a warranty to cover the correction.
One year is the bare minimum. Many quality electricians offer two to five years on their labor. Get the warranty in writing with specifics: what’s covered, what’s excluded, and how to file a claim. A contractor who won’t warranty their work beyond 90 days either doesn’t trust their own quality or doesn’t plan to be around long enough to honor it.
17. What should I watch for after the work is done?
Electrical problems can sometimes appear days or weeks after installation, especially if connections weren’t properly tightened or if the load on a circuit was underestimated. Ask the electrician what warning signs you should monitor.
Common things to watch for: breakers tripping under normal use, outlets that feel warm to the touch, flickering lights, a burning smell near outlets or the panel, or buzzing sounds. Any of these warrants an immediate callback. Knowing what to look for gives you early warning before a minor issue becomes dangerous.
18. Can I get everything we’ve discussed in writing before you start?
Verbal agreements are worthless when there’s a dispute. You need a written document that includes the complete scope of work, materials to be used, total cost, payment terms, estimated timeline, warranty details, and who’s responsible for the permit and inspection.
If an electrician resists putting things in writing, move on. The professionals who do quality work are happy to document every detail because it protects them just as much as it protects you.
What to Mention or Send Beforehand
Share these details before the appointment to get more accurate estimates:
- Your home’s age and any known electrical history. If you know the wiring type (copper, aluminum, knob-and-tube), mention it. If you’ve had previous electrical work done, share those details too.
- Photos of your electrical panel (with the cover on and off). A photo of the panel label showing the amperage rating and the breaker layout gives the electrician a head start.
- A written list of everything you want done. Outlets added, fixtures installed, panel questions, EV charger wiring. Putting it all on one list ensures nothing gets missed and lets the electrician plan efficiently.
- Any recurring problems you’ve noticed. Breakers that trip frequently, lights that flicker, outlets that don’t work. Note which circuits are affected and when the problem occurs.
- Access information. Will they need to get into the attic, crawl space, or basement? Is there adequate clearance? Any obstructions? Letting them know in advance helps them bring the right equipment.
Typical Cost Range and Factors
Electrical costs depend on the complexity of the work, your location, and the materials involved. Here’s what to expect nationally:
Common small jobs:
- Outlet installation or replacement: $150 to $400 per outlet
- Light fixture installation: $150 to $500
- Ceiling fan installation: $200 to $600
- GFCI outlet installation: $150 to $300
Mid-range projects:
- Panel upgrade (100A to 200A): $1,500 to $4,000
- EV charger installation (Level 2): $800 to $2,500
- Dedicated circuit addition: $200 to $600
- Whole-house surge protector: $300 to $600
Major projects:
- Whole-house rewiring: $8,000 to $20,000+
- Knob-and-tube removal and replacement: $10,000 to $25,000
- New construction rough-in: $3 to $6 per square foot
Key cost drivers:
- Your location. Electricians in major metro areas charge 20% to 50% more than rural areas.
- Accessibility. Easy attic runs cost less than fishing wire through finished walls. Crawl space work adds time and difficulty.
- Panel capacity. If your panel needs upgrading before the actual project can start, that’s an additional $1,500 to $4,000.
- Permit and inspection fees. Typically $50 to $300 depending on your municipality.
- Code upgrades. If existing wiring doesn’t meet code, bringing it up to standard adds cost to any project.
- Material quality. Commercial-grade outlets, specific breaker brands, and specialty wire all affect the total.
Red Flags vs. Green Flags
| Red Flag | Green Flag |
|---|---|
| No license, or claims they “don’t need one.” Every state requires electrical licensing for a reason. | Provides a license number immediately and encourages you to verify it. |
| Suggests skipping the permit. Unpermitted electrical work is a fire and liability risk. | Pulls permits as standard practice and schedules inspections. |
| Can’t explain what’s wrong or what they plan to do in plain language. | Walks you through the diagnosis and plan clearly, using terms you understand. |
| Demands full payment before starting. You lose all leverage. | Small deposit (if any) with balance due on completion. |
| No written estimate. “It’ll be around $X” on a phone call doesn’t count. | Provides a detailed, itemized written estimate before any work begins. |
| Doesn’t carry insurance or gets defensive when you ask. | Emails a current certificate of insurance and invites you to verify it. |
| Quotes a price dramatically lower than everyone else. Cheap electrical work is dangerous electrical work. | Price falls within the range of other quotes, with clear explanation of what’s included. |
| No warranty on workmanship, or warranty is only 90 days. | One to five year workmanship warranty, in writing, with clear terms. |
Money-Saving Tips
- Bundle multiple tasks into one visit. Service call fees and setup time are the same whether the electrician does one task or five. Adding outlets, installing a fixture, and upgrading a GFCI can all happen in the same trip at a lower total cost than separate visits.
- Get three quotes and compare scope, not just price. The cheapest bid may exclude materials, permits, or cleanup. Compare line by line to understand what you’re actually getting.
- Schedule during slower periods. Late fall and winter tend to be slower for residential electricians. You may get better availability and slightly lower pricing.
- Do the non-electrical prep work yourself. Clearing furniture away from the panel, moving items out of the attic access path, and removing outlet covers saves the electrician time, which saves you money on hourly jobs.
- Ask about code upgrades while they’re already working. Adding GFCI outlets or AFCI breakers during an existing project costs a fraction of what it would as a standalone service call.
- Consider future needs now. If you’re planning an EV charger, hot tub, or workshop in the next few years, running the wiring now (while walls are open or the panel is being worked on) is far cheaper than doing it as a separate project later. In the meantime, plugging valuable electronics into a whole-house surge protector or at least a quality power strip surge protector protects them from voltage spikes.
Quick Reference Checklist
Print this and bring it to your electrician consultation:
- Are you licensed, and what type of license do you hold?
- Do you carry liability insurance and workers’ comp?
- How long have you been doing electrical work?
- What is my panel’s capacity, and is it sufficient?
- Is my existing wiring up to current code?
- What work needs to be done, and what are my options?
- How many new circuits will this require?
- Will you need to run wire through walls, attic, or crawl space?
- Does this require a permit, and will you pull it?
- Will the work be inspected?
- Are there code upgrades I should address now?
- Do you charge hourly or flat rate?
- What materials will you use?
- How long will this take, and when can you start?
- What is your payment structure?
- What warranty do you offer on workmanship?
- What should I watch for after the work is done?
- Can I get everything in writing before you start?
Glossary
- NEC (National Electrical Code): The standard for safe electrical installation in the United States, updated every three years. Local jurisdictions adopt the NEC (sometimes with amendments) as the basis for their building codes. Your electrician’s work must comply with the version your municipality has adopted.
- GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter): A safety device that shuts off electrical power when it detects current flowing through an unintended path (like water or a person). Required by code in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, outdoors, and near any water source. Recognizable by the “Test” and “Reset” buttons on the outlet face.
- AFCI (Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter): A breaker or outlet that detects dangerous electrical arcs (sparks caused by damaged or loose wiring) and shuts off the circuit. Required by current code on most living-space circuits, including bedrooms. Helps prevent electrical fires.
- Service entrance: The point where utility power enters your home, including the meter base, the main disconnect, and the wiring connecting them. Panel upgrades often involve work at the service entrance, which may require coordination with your utility company.
- Load calculation: The process of adding up the electrical demand of everything in your home (appliances, HVAC, lighting, outlets) to determine whether your panel has enough capacity. Your electrician should perform this before recommending a panel size.
Helpful Tools and Resources
Plug this into any outlet to instantly check for wiring problems: open ground, reversed polarity, or missing neutral. A $12 tool that tells you which outlets need professional attention.
Protect computers, TVs, and other sensitive electronics from voltage spikes. Look for at least 2,000 joules of protection and indicator lights that confirm the surge protection is active.
If you handle basic tasks like swapping light switches or outlets (with the breaker off), a quality wire stripper makes clean connections easier and safer than using a knife or pliers.
- NFPA (National Fire Protection Association): Publisher of the National Electrical Code. Their site includes consumer resources on electrical safety and code requirements.
- [Your State’s Electrical Licensing Board]: Search for “[your state] electrician license verification” to find the database where you can verify any electrician’s license status and check for disciplinary actions.
- ESFI (Electrical Safety Foundation International): Free resources on home electrical safety, including checklists for identifying hazards and guidance on when to call a professional.
- Better Business Bureau: Check any electrical contractor’s complaint history, customer reviews, and accreditation status before hiring.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if I need a panel upgrade?
Three common signs: your breakers trip frequently under normal use, your panel is rated at 100 amps or less and you’re adding major loads (EV charger, heat pump, hot tub), or your panel uses obsolete equipment like Federal Pacific or Zinsco breakers (both known for safety issues). An electrician can perform a load calculation to determine whether your current panel can handle your needs or whether an upgrade is necessary.
Is it safe to do any electrical work myself?
Simple tasks like replacing a light switch or outlet (with the breaker off) are generally safe for a handy homeowner who understands basic safety. Anything beyond that, including new circuits, panel work, wiring, and anything involving the service entrance, should be done by a licensed electrician. DIY electrical work that doesn’t meet code creates fire hazards and can void your insurance. When in doubt, call a professional.
How long does a panel upgrade take?
A straightforward panel upgrade (swapping a 100-amp panel for a 200-amp panel in the same location) typically takes one full day, including a planned power outage of four to eight hours while the utility disconnects and reconnects service. More complex upgrades that involve moving the panel, upgrading the service entrance, or running new feeders can take two to three days.
What’s the difference between a journeyman and a master electrician?
A journeyman electrician has completed an apprenticeship (typically four to five years) and passed a licensing exam. They can perform most residential and commercial electrical work independently. A master electrician has additional experience (usually two or more years beyond journeyman status) and an advanced exam. Master electricians can design electrical systems, pull permits in most jurisdictions, and supervise other electricians. For most residential work, a licensed journeyman is perfectly qualified.
Should I upgrade my wiring if I have an older home?
It depends on the wiring type and condition. Knob-and-tube wiring (common in homes built before 1940) and aluminum branch wiring (common in homes built in the late 1960s and 1970s) both present safety concerns and should be evaluated by a licensed electrician. Copper wiring in good condition from the 1960s onward is generally fine, though the panel and connections may need updating. If you’re unsure, an electrical inspection ($200 to $400) can tell you exactly where you stand.
Next Steps
Start by calling at least three licensed electricians for estimates. Use this checklist to compare their answers side by side. The electrician who gives clear, specific answers, pulls permits without being asked, and puts everything in writing is the one you want working on your home’s electrical system. Vague responses and shortcuts on safety aren’t negotiable.
For more guidance on hiring contractors, check out our Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Plumber and our Complete Guide to Hiring Home Service Professionals.