21 Questions to Ask Before Hiring Movers

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Here’s a nightmare scenario that happens more often than you’d think: movers load up everything you own, then refuse to unload until you pay double the quoted price. Your furniture is literally held hostage on their truck. It sounds extreme, but the FMCSA logs thousands of complaints against moving companies every year, and “hostage loads” are one of the most common.

The good news? Asking the right questions to a moving company before you sign anything makes it remarkably easy to separate the pros from the predators. These 21 questions cover everything from licensing to estimates to what happens when things break, whether you’re moving across town or across the country.

Pull this list up on your phone every time you call a mover for a quote. The answers will tell you everything.

Before You Contact a Moving Company

A little preparation before you start calling movers will save you time, help you get more accurate estimates, and make it easier to compare quotes apples to apples.

Do a quick home inventory. Walk through every room (including closets, the garage, attic, and storage areas) and note anything large, heavy, or unusual. Movers need this to give you a realistic estimate, and you’ll want it for insurance purposes too.
Decide what you’re not taking. The less you move, the less you pay. Now’s the time to sell, donate, or toss anything you don’t need. Every box you eliminate saves money and hassle. A label maker makes sorting and labeling boxes much faster, and it pays off at the unpacking stage.
Know your moving dates (or at least a window). Having specific dates (or a narrow range) lets movers check availability and give you accurate pricing. Flexibility helps, but “sometime this summer” is too vague for a real quote.
Measure doorways, stairwells, and elevator access at both locations. Tight access means longer carry times, possible shuttle trucks, or disassembly of large furniture. Knowing this ahead of time prevents surprises on moving day.
Check whether your building or HOA requires a moving reservation or insurance certificate. Many apartments, condos, and HOA-managed communities require advance scheduling, elevator reservations, or a Certificate of Insurance from the mover. Find this out now so it doesn’t delay your move.

Licensing and Insurance Questions for Moving Companies

1. Are you licensed and registered with the FMCSA? What’s your USDOT number?

Any company moving household goods across state lines must carry a USDOT number. That’s federal law, not a suggestion. A company without one is operating illegally, and you’ll have zero recourse when things go wrong.

A legit company will rattle off their USDOT number without hesitating. Verify it yourself at safer.fmcsa.dot.gov. Check that the company name matches, their operating authority is active, and there’s no “out of service” flag. Moving within a single state? Ask about state licensing requirements instead, because those vary.

2. Do you have both liability insurance and cargo insurance?

These are two different policies and you need both confirmed. Liability covers injuries or property damage during the move (a mover trips and takes out your porch railing). Cargo insurance covers your belongings while they’re on the truck.

Watch for this: A verbal “yeah, we’re covered” isn’t enough. Ask for a certificate of insurance emailed to you. A reputable company does this without pushback. If they dodge the question or tell you not to worry about it, that is the thing to worry about.

3. Will your own crew handle my move, or do you use subcontractors?

Some “moving companies” are actually brokers. They book your move, take your deposit, and hand the whole thing off to a crew you’ve never spoken to. Then when your dresser arrives with a smashed mirror, nobody takes responsibility.

You want a company that uses its own trucks and employees. If they do sub out work, they should tell you upfront, give you the subcontractor’s information, and clearly explain how claims get handled.

4. How long have you been in business under this name?

Same story as roofing and contracting: bad movers shut down and reopen under new names to dodge reviews and complaints. A company operating under the same name for several years has a track record you can actually research.

Three to five years is a solid baseline. Cross-reference with online reviews, the Better Business Bureau, and the FMCSA database.

Moving Estimates and Pricing Questions

5. Is this a binding estimate, a non-binding estimate, or a binding not-to-exceed estimate?

This might be the single most important question on the list, and most people don’t even know to ask it.

Binding estimate: Price is locked in based on the items listed, regardless of actual weight.
Non-binding estimate: Basically an educated guess. Final cost can be higher based on actual shipment weight.
Binding not-to-exceed: The best deal for you. You pay the quoted price or less if things weigh less than estimated. Never more.

Get the estimate type in writing. If a company only does non-binding estimates, ask how much the final bill typically varies. And be very skeptical of any company giving you a low number over the phone without seeing your stuff. That’s the classic bait-and-switch setup.

6. Did you base this estimate on an in-home survey or just a phone call?

“How many bedrooms do you have?” is not the basis for an accurate estimate. It’s a shortcut that almost always leads to surprise charges on moving day.

For any move of real size, a reputable company will offer a video walkthrough or in-home survey at no cost. They should go room by room and ask about closets, garages, storage areas, and the attic. A firm price from a company that’s never seen your stuff? Treat that as a warning.

7. What extra fees could show up beyond this estimate?

The base estimate rarely tells the whole story. Common surprises include long carry fees (truck can’t park close enough), stair fees, elevator fees, shuttle fees for narrow streets, bulky item surcharges, and weekend premiums.

Ask for a written list of every possible add-on charge and what triggers it. A trustworthy company walks you through these upfront. “There shouldn’t be any extra fees” with zero specifics? Push harder.

8. What’s your cancellation and rescheduling policy?

Life throws curveballs. Some companies charge steep cancellation fees, especially during peak season (May through September). Others are flexible.

Get cancellation and rescheduling terms in writing before you sign anything. How much notice do you need to give? What percentage of the deposit do you lose? These details matter a lot more once your plans change.

9. What forms of payment do you accept, and when is payment due?

Legitimate movers accept credit cards, checks, or certified funds. A company demanding a large cash deposit upfront, or insisting on cash-only payment, is telling you something, and none of it is good.

A reasonable deposit (no more than 20% of the estimate) with the balance due on delivery is standard. Paying by credit card also gives you chargeback protection if things go south. Avoid anyone who wants full payment before moving day.

Moving Services and Logistics Questions

10. What packing services do you offer, and what do they cost?

Full-service packing saves you time but adds to the bill. Some companies offer partial packing (just the fragile items or kitchenware) as a middle ground.

Ask for an itemized price list. Find out whether materials (boxes, tape, bubble wrap, wardrobe boxes) are included in the packing fee or charged separately. Here’s a detail people often miss: many movers only accept liability for items they packed. If you pack it yourself and it breaks, the claim gets denied.

11. Do you offer storage, and how does it work?

When your move-out and move-in dates don’t line up, you need temporary storage. Not every mover offers it, and those that do handle it very differently.

Key questions: Is it climate-controlled? How are your items secured? Is billing monthly or a flat fee? What’s the process for getting your things out when you’re ready? Make sure storage costs are written into your contract, not quoted verbally.

12. Can you handle specialty items like pianos, antiques, hot tubs, or safes?

A 700-pound gun safe or a baby grand piano requires specific equipment, extra crew, and experience. Not every company can pull it off, and the wrong crew attempting it can mean damage or injury.

If you’ve got anything unusual, bring it up specifically. Ask whether they charge extra, whether they use dedicated specialty movers or handle it in-house, and what happens if it gets damaged. Better to know now.

13. What’s the estimated timeline for pickup, transit, and delivery?

Local moves are straightforward. Long-distance? Your stuff might be on a truck for days or weeks. Knowing the realistic delivery window lets you plan temporary housing, time off work, and which essentials to keep with you.

Get a specific delivery window in writing, not just “5 to 10 business days.” Ask what happens if they miss it. Some contracts include a daily penalty for late delivery. That kind of accountability is a strong signal you’re dealing with a serious company.

14. How many crew members and what truck size?

Too few movers means a longer, more exhausting day. Too small a truck means a second trip, and possibly extra charges. Both directly affect cost and schedule.

Rough benchmarks: A two-bedroom apartment typically needs 2-3 movers and a 20-foot truck. A four-bedroom house usually requires 4 movers and a 26-foot truck. The company should be able to tell you these specifics based on the inventory they’ve reviewed.

Protection and Claims Questions for Your Move

15. What valuation coverage options do you offer?

There’s an important difference between “valuation coverage” and actual insurance, and movers count on you not knowing it. Federal law requires two tiers:

Released Value Protection is free but basically worthless. It covers 60 cents per pound per item. Your 10-pound laptop? Worth $6 under this plan.

Full Value Protection means the mover must repair, replace, or pay current market value. It costs extra but is almost always worth it.

Ask what Full Value Protection costs and what the deductible is. Find out about exclusions. Some movers won’t cover items of “extraordinary value” (artwork, jewelry, collectibles) unless you declare them on the inventory sheet in advance.

16. Should I buy separate moving insurance from a third party?

Even Full Value Protection has limits. Third-party moving insurance from companies that specialize in transit coverage can fill the gaps, especially for high-value belongings.

Ask the mover whether their valuation has caps or exclusions that might leave you exposed. For expensive moves or homes full of valuable items, a third-party policy in the $100-$300 range can be genuinely worthwhile.

17. What’s your claims process if something is damaged or goes missing?

Even the best movers occasionally break something. What matters is what happens next. You want a clear, documented process, not three months of voicemails into the void.

Federal rules for interstate moves: you have nine months from delivery to file a claim. The company has 30 days to acknowledge it and 120 days to resolve it. Ask whether they handle claims in-house or use a third-party service, and get the claims contact info before your move, not after something’s already broken.

Day-of-Move Details and Logistics

18. What should I do to prepare before your crew arrives?

A little prep on your end makes the move faster, cheaper (especially if you’re paying hourly), and less likely to result in damage.

Ask about disassembling furniture, disconnecting appliances, clearing pathways, and reserving elevator time if you’re in a building. Good movers send a preparation checklist. If they don’t offer one, ask for it, or take it as a sign they haven’t thought through the details.

19. Will the same crew load and unload?

On long-distance moves, it’s common for one crew to load and a totally different crew to unload. That can create confusion about where boxes go, how furniture gets reassembled, and who’s accountable for what.

If different crews handle each end, ask how the handoff works and who to contact if something seems off at delivery. For local moves, the same crew should be there start to finish.

20. Do you use protective materials for floors, doorways, and furniture?

Floor runners, door frame padding, furniture blankets, stretch wrap: these aren’t extras. They’re the baseline for any professional operation.

Confirm that protection is included in the price, not an add-on. And here’s a tip from experience: take photos of your walls, floors, and doorways at both locations before the movers arrive. Having documentation makes damage claims infinitely easier.

21. What’s the tipping expectation?

Tipping movers is customary but not required. Knowing the norms helps you budget and shows respect for genuinely hard physical work.

A general range: $20-$40 per mover for local moves, $40-$80 per mover for long-distance, adjusted based on difficulty and service quality. Tip each person individually in cash at the end of the job. If the company has a no-tipping policy, they’ll tell you. And honestly, offering water, snacks, and access to a bathroom goes a surprisingly long way.

Quick Reference Checklist

Use this when you’re calling movers for quotes:

What to Mention or Send Beforehand

Once you’ve picked a few movers to get quotes from, sharing key details upfront leads to more accurate estimates and fewer surprises on moving day.

Your inventory list or home walkthrough video. Even a rough list of major furniture pieces and an estimate of how many boxes you’ll have gives the mover something real to price against. A quick video walkthrough of each room is even better.
Access details for both locations. Let them know about stairs, narrow hallways, long driveways, elevator reservations, parking restrictions, or anything that could slow the crew down or require special equipment. These details directly affect the estimate.
Any specialty or high-value items. Got a piano, pool table, 500-pound safe, or a valuable art collection? Mention these specifically. They may require special crating, extra crew, or a separate specialty mover, and the cost should be in the estimate, not added on moving day.
Your move-out and move-in dates, plus any flexibility. Exact dates get you exact pricing. If you have some wiggle room, say so. Shifting your move by a few days could save you money if it lands on a less busy date.
Building or HOA requirements. If either location requires a Certificate of Insurance, elevator reservation, loading dock booking, or specific moving hours, share those rules before the estimate so they can plan accordingly.

Typical Cost Range and Factors

Moving costs depend on distance, the size of your home, and the time of year. Here’s what you can typically expect:

Local moves (under 50 miles):

Studio or one-bedroom: $300 to $800
Two to three bedrooms: $800 to $2,500
Four+ bedrooms: $2,000 to $5,000+

Local moves are usually priced by the hour. Expect $100-$200 per hour for a crew of two to three movers with a truck.

Long-distance moves (over 100 miles):

Studio or one-bedroom: $1,500 to $3,500
Two to three bedrooms: $3,500 to $7,500
Four+ bedrooms: $6,000 to $15,000+

Long-distance moves are typically priced by weight and distance rather than time.

Factors that move the price:

Distance. The further you go, the more you pay. Interstate moves involve fuel surcharges, driver per-diem costs, and potentially multiple-day transit.
Weight and volume of your shipment. More stuff = higher cost. This is why decluttering before getting estimates directly reduces your bill.
Time of year. Peak season (May through September) and end-of-month dates are the most expensive. Moving in October through April, mid-month, on a weekday? That’s how you save 20-30%.
Access challenges. Long carries (truck can’t park within 75 feet of the door), flights of stairs without an elevator, and narrow streets requiring a shuttle truck all trigger additional fees.
Packing services and materials. Full-service packing can add $500-$2,000+ depending on the size of the home. Partial packing (fragiles only) is a cost-effective middle ground.
Specialty items. Pianos, hot tubs, safes, and antiques require extra equipment and expertise, adding $200-$1,000+ per item.
Insurance and valuation coverage. Full Value Protection typically costs 1-2% of your declared shipment value on top of the base price.

Red Flags vs Green Flags

Red Flag	Green Flag
No USDOT number, or a fake one. If the number doesn’t check out on the FMCSA website, stop everything. Non-negotiable for interstate moves.	They provide their USDOT number immediately, it’s verified on the FMCSA site, and their operating authority is active with no out-of-service flags.
A suspiciously low phone estimate with no inventory review. Classic bait-and-switch. They quote cheap to win the job, then jack up the price once your stuff is on the truck.	They insist on an in-home survey or detailed video walkthrough before giving a firm price. The estimate is itemized and transparent.
Demanding a large cash deposit. Legitimate movers take small deposits (10-20%) and accept credit cards. A cash-only demand is a screaming red flag.	They accept credit cards, checks, or certified funds. The deposit is reasonable (under 20%), with the balance due at delivery.
A blank or vague contract. Never sign anything with blank spaces, missing dates, or fuzzy service descriptions.	The contract is thorough: specific dates, services, estimate type, valuation coverage, and a clear breakdown of all charges and potential fees.
The “hostage load.” Movers load your stuff, then demand significantly more money before they’ll deliver.	They honor the written estimate. Any additional charges are explained, documented, and agreed to before they occur.
No physical business address. A P.O. box isn’t a business.	They have a verifiable physical address, branded trucks, uniformed crew, and a consistent presence in online directories and review sites.
They show up in an unmarked truck. Professional movers use branded vehicles. An unmarked rental truck signals an unlicensed operation.	They arrive in clearly branded trucks with company name, USDOT number, and contact info visible on the vehicle.
They pressure you to sign immediately. Legitimate companies give you time to read, compare, and think.	They encourage you to compare quotes, read the contract carefully, and take your time making a decision.

Money-Saving Tips

Move during the off-season. October through April is cheaper across the board. Mid-month weekdays are the least expensive dates. If you can avoid peak season (May through September) and end-of-month rushes, you’ll save 20-30% on the same move.
Declutter before getting estimates. Every item you sell, donate, or throw away reduces the weight and volume of your shipment, and your bill. Do this before the in-home survey so the estimate reflects what you’re actually moving.
Pack what you can yourself. Full-service packing is convenient but expensive. Pack your own books, clothes, linens, and non-fragile items. Let the movers handle the breakables. That way you keep their liability coverage on the items most likely to get damaged.
Get free moving boxes. Liquor stores, grocery stores, and online marketplace groups are full of free boxes. Wardrobe boxes and specialty packing materials are worth buying, but standard boxes don’t need to be brand new. If you do need to buy, a moving box kit bundles boxes, tape, and bubble wrap at a better price than buying everything separately.
Compare at least three binding not-to-exceed estimates. This estimate type protects you from price increases while allowing for a lower final bill. Comparing three of these side by side gives you the clearest picture of fair market pricing.
Ask about flexible date discounts. Some movers offer reduced rates if you give them a window (say, any day within a five-day range) instead of a fixed date. They fill gaps in their schedule, and you get a better price.

Glossary

Binding estimate: A written agreement that locks in the total cost of your move based on the items and services listed. The price doesn’t change even if your shipment ends up weighing more than expected, as long as you don’t add items not on the original inventory.
Bill of lading: The official contract between you and the moving company. It’s created on moving day and includes the inventory list, shipment weight, charges, pickup and delivery addresses, and the terms and conditions of the move. Review it carefully before signing.
Valuation coverage: The mover’s liability for loss or damage to your belongings. It’s not traditional insurance. It’s a level of liability the mover assumes. The two standard options are Released Value (60 cents per pound per item, free) and Full Value Protection (repair, replace, or reimburse at current market value, for an additional fee).
Long carry: An additional fee charged when the moving truck can’t park within a standard distance (usually 75 feet) of your door. Common with apartments, walk-ups, or homes on long driveways. Typically charged per additional 50 or 75 feet.
Shuttle service: When the main moving truck is too large to access your street, building, or driveway, a smaller vehicle (the shuttle) transfers your belongings between the truck and your door. Shuttle fees typically run $300-$700 and should be disclosed in the estimate.

Helpful Tools and Resources

Our Pick

Heavy-Duty Moving Boxes

Double-wall corrugated boxes hold up much better than used grocery store boxes, especially for books and kitchenware. Worth the investment for anything heavy or fragile.

Our Pick

Packing Tape with Dispenser

A tape gun with heavy-duty packing tape makes sealing boxes twice as fast. You'll go through more tape than you expect, so grab a multi-roll pack.

Our Pick

Furniture Moving Pads

If your movers don't provide adequate blankets, having your own set protects wood furniture, appliances, and mirrors from scratches and dings during transit.

Our Pick

Portable Label Maker

Label every box with the room and a quick summary of contents. This one step makes unpacking dramatically faster and helps movers place boxes in the right rooms.

FMCSA Mover Search (Protect Your Move): The federal government’s official tool for verifying a mover’s USDOT number, checking complaint history, and confirming active operating authority. This is your first stop for any interstate move.
Better Business Bureau Moving Company Lookup: Check any mover’s BBB rating, complaint history, and customer reviews. A pattern of unresolved complaints is one of the strongest warning signs available.
American Moving & Storage Association (AMSA) - Moving Tips: Consumer resources, planning checklists, and a directory of ProMover-certified companies from the industry’s largest trade association.

Next Steps

Get quotes from at least three different movers. Use this list to compare not just pricing but how they handle your questions. The way a company responds to a thorough inquiry tells you a lot about how they’ll handle your actual move.

Start the process at least four to six weeks before your move date, or eight weeks during peak season (May through August). That gives you time to compare, verify credentials, and actually book the best option before they fill up.

For more help planning your move, check out our guides on Questions to Ask Before Buying Your First Home and Questions to Ask Yourself Before Moving to a New City.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many moving companies should I get quotes from?

Three at minimum. That gives you enough range to catch outliers (both high and low) and compare service levels. Make sure each company does an actual in-home survey or video walkthrough, not just a phone guesstimate.

What’s the difference between a moving broker and an actual moving company?

A broker takes your booking and sells the job to a carrier you’ve never spoken with. An actual moving company sends its own trucks and employees. Brokers aren’t illegal, but they add a layer of complexity that can make resolving problems much harder. Always ask whether the company you’re talking to will be the one actually moving your stuff.

When is the cheapest time to move?

October through April, on weekdays. The most expensive window is peak season (May through September), especially around the end and beginning of each month. If you’ve got schedule flexibility, a mid-month Tuesday in the off-season will save you the most money. The difference can be 20-30%.

Are movers responsible for items I packed myself?

Generally, no. Most movers only accept liability for items they packed. If you pack your own boxes and something breaks inside, expect the claim to be denied. A smart middle ground: have the movers pack your fragile and high-value items, and handle the books and clothes yourself.

How far in advance should I book movers?

Four to six weeks for local moves. Six to eight weeks for long-distance. During peak season, booking two to three months out isn’t overkill. It’s necessary. Popular dates fill up fast, and last-minute bookings come with premium pricing and very limited choices.