24 Questions to Ask a General Contractor

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Last year, a friend of mine hired a general contractor for a $45,000 kitchen remodel. The guy seemed great. Friendly, showed up on time for the estimate, gave a competitive bid. Three months later, my friend had a half-demolished kitchen, $30,000 out the door, and a contractor who’d stopped returning calls.

That story isn’t unusual. It happens constantly. And nearly every time, the homeowner says the same thing: “I wish I’d asked more questions upfront.”

So here are 24 questions to ask a general contractor before you hand over a dime. They cover licensing, pricing, timelines, communication, and the stuff that separates a pro from someone who’ll wreck your project and your peace of mind. Print this list. Bring it to every meeting. The way each contractor responds will tell you almost everything you need to know.

One rule before you start: Always get bids from at least three contractors. It gives you a realistic price range and makes outliers, both suspiciously cheap and absurdly expensive, really obvious.

Before You Contact a General Contractor

Doing a bit of groundwork before you start calling contractors makes the whole process smoother. You’ll communicate more clearly, get more accurate bids, and avoid wasting time on contractors who aren’t a fit.

Define your project scope as clearly as possible. Write down exactly what you want done, even if it’s rough. “Gut and remodel the kitchen” is better than “we want to update the kitchen.” The more specific you are, the more accurate and comparable your bids will be.
Set a realistic budget range. You don’t need a final number, but knowing your ballpark prevents sticker shock and helps contractors tailor their proposals. A $30,000 kitchen remodel looks very different from a $75,000 one. A project management notebook helps you track bids, timelines, and decisions in one place.
Gather inspiration and design preferences. Save photos, create a Pinterest board, or sketch a rough layout. Contractors aren’t mind readers, and showing them what you’re envisioning saves rounds of back-and-forth.
Check your local permit requirements. A quick call to your city or county building department tells you what permits your project needs. This way, you can verify that any contractor you talk to brings it up themselves, and if they don’t, that’s a red flag.
Look up your state’s contractor licensing board website. Bookmark it. You’ll use it to verify every contractor’s license number, and having it ready means you can check credentials the same day you get a bid.

Licensing and Insurance Questions for General Contractors

1. Are you licensed in this state, and can I see your license number?

Most states require general contractors to hold a valid license. That means they’ve passed exams, met competency standards, and are accountable to a licensing board. If something goes sideways, you have a path for complaints and resolution.

They should hand you a license number without blinking. Verify it yourself on your state’s contractor licensing board website. Check that it’s active, not expired or suspended. Two minutes of your time. Worth it every time.

2. Do you carry general liability insurance, and what are your coverage limits?

General liability protects you if the contractor damages your property. Picture this: a crew member accidentally puts a sledgehammer through your main water line. Without insurance, guess who’s paying for that repair?

Ask for a Certificate of Insurance with at least $1 million in coverage. Then call the insurance company directly to verify it’s current. Printed documents can be outdated or fabricated. Sounds paranoid, but it happens more than you’d think.

3. Do you carry workers’ compensation insurance?

This is separate from general liability, and it’s just as critical. Workers’ comp covers injuries to the contractor’s employees on your property. Without it, an injured worker could file a claim against your homeowner’s insurance, or sue you directly.

Some states exempt sole proprietors with no employees. But if anyone else is working on your project, this coverage must be in place. Verify it with the insurer, not just the contractor’s word.

4. Are you bonded?

A surety bond is basically a financial guarantee that the contractor will finish the job per the contract. If they abandon the project or fail to deliver, the bonding company can compensate you. It’s the difference between “I hope this works out” and having actual financial protection.

Ask for the bond amount and bonding company name. Higher bond amounts generally signal a more established business. Some states require bonding as part of the licensing process.

Experience and Portfolio

5. How long have you been in business, and how long have you been doing this type of work?

Longevity doesn’t guarantee quality, but contractors who’ve been operating five-plus years have survived the market swings that weed out unreliable operators. More importantly, experience with your specific type of project matters more than general years in business.

A contractor who’s done 200 bathroom remodels is a safer bet for your bathroom than someone who mostly builds decks, even if the deck builder has been around longer.

6. Can you show me photos or walk me through three completed projects similar to mine?

Photos are good. Walking through a finished project in person is better. You’re looking at craftsmanship and attention to detail: how tile edges are handled, how trim meets walls, whether paint lines are crisp.

Ask whether those projects came in on budget and on time. The answers are often revealing.

7. Can you provide three references from recent clients?

References let you hear directly from people who’ve lived through a project with this contractor. Call them. Actually call them. Don’t skip this step.

Ask specific questions: Did it stay on budget? Were there surprise costs? How did the contractor handle problems? Would you hire them again? Be cautious if the contractor hesitates to provide names or only offers references from years ago.

8. Have you ever had a complaint filed against your license or been involved in a lawsuit with a client?

Nobody’s perfect. But a pattern of complaints or litigation is a different story entirely. Honest contractors will acknowledge past issues and explain how they resolved them.

Tip: Don’t rely solely on their answer. Check your state’s licensing board and court records yourself. One resolved complaint from five years ago is one thing. Multiple active disputes? Run.

Project Planning Questions to Ask Before Hiring

9. Will you personally be on-site, or will a project manager oversee the work?

Many general contractors run multiple projects at once. The person who wows you in the sales meeting isn’t always the person who shows up at 7 AM during construction.

Get a clear answer about who manages the job daily. Ask to meet the project manager or site supervisor before signing. You need to know who your actual day-to-day contact is, and you need their direct phone number.

10. Who will be working on my property: your own crew or subcontractors?

Most GCs use subcontractors for specialized trades like plumbing, electrical, and HVAC. That’s normal and expected. But you deserve to know who’s actually inside your home and whether they’re licensed and insured.

Ask which tasks they handle in-house and which go to subs. Get names and license numbers. If you hear “I’ll figure that out later,” that should concern you.

11. What permits does this project require, and who is responsible for pulling them?

Unpermitted work can mean fines, forced demolition of completed work, and serious problems when you sell. The general contractor should handle all permit applications. Period.

If they suggest skipping permits to “save you money,” end the conversation. A legit contractor knows exactly which permits your project needs without hesitating, pulls them in their name (not yours), and posts the permit cards visibly at the job site.

12. How do you handle change orders during a project?

Change orders (modifications to the original scope, materials, or design) happen on almost every project. They’re not a problem in themselves. The problem is when there’s no clear process for handling them.

Every change should be documented with a description, the additional cost or credit, and the impact on the timeline. Both parties sign before any changed work begins. “We’ll figure it out later” is exactly how budgets explode. Get the process in writing before work starts.

Pricing and Payment Questions for Contractors

13. Is this a fixed-price bid or a cost-plus estimate?

Fixed-price means the contractor agrees to complete the project for a set amount. Cost-plus means you pay actual costs of labor and materials, plus a percentage fee. Both are legitimate, but they carry very different risk.

Fixed-price gives you budget certainty. Cost-plus can spiral if complications hit. For most homeowner projects, fixed-price offers more protection. If someone proposes cost-plus, make sure the contract includes a “not to exceed” cap. Either way, get the structure in writing.

14. What exactly is included in this bid, and what isn’t?

Two bids that look $15,000 apart might actually be close once you compare what’s included. A “great deal” can quickly become average when it excludes demolition, cleanup, dumpster fees, permit costs, or finish materials.

What to demand: An itemized bid breaking down labor, materials, permits, and allowances. Ask specifically about demolition, hauling, site cleanup, and whether fixtures, hardware, and paint are included or separate. More detail = fewer surprises.

15. What is your payment schedule?

A draw schedule ties payments to completed milestones, maybe 10% at signing, 25% at framing, 25% at rough-in, 25% at finish work, 15% at final walkthrough.

Never pay more than 10-15% upfront. Never pay the final installment until you’ve done a thorough walkthrough and every punch-list item is resolved. If a contractor asks for 50% or more before starting? In many states, that’s actually illegal. It’s always a bad sign.

16. Do you provide lien waivers from subcontractors and suppliers?

Here’s a scenario that shocks a lot of homeowners: you pay your general contractor in full, but they don’t pay their plumber. That unpaid plumber can place a lien on your home. A mechanic’s lien is a legal claim against your property, and it can happen even when you’ve done nothing wrong.

Lien waivers are documents confirming a sub or supplier got paid and waives the right to file a lien. Your contractor should provide them at every payment milestone. If they don’t know what a lien waiver is, that alone tells you enough.

17. How do you handle cost overruns?

Even well-planned projects uncover surprises behind walls or under floors (rotted framing, outdated wiring, plumbing that’s not up to code). The question isn’t whether it’ll happen. It’s how it’s handled when it does.

You want a clear process: contractor identifies the issue, presents options and costs, gets your written approval before proceeding. Some contracts include a contingency allowance (typically 10-15% of project cost) for unforeseen issues. That’s smart planning, not padding.

Communication and Timeline Questions

18. What is the estimated start date and completion date?

“We can start right away” sounds appealing, right? Think about it differently: good contractors are booked out weeks or months. A contractor with zero backlog might not be in demand for a reason.

Get specific dates, not ranges like “sometime in March.” Ask what could cause delays and how they handle setbacks. The best contractors build buffer into their estimates and communicate proactively when timelines shift.

19. How will we communicate during the project, and how often?

Poor communication is the number one complaint homeowners have about contractors. Number one. Not cost overruns, not bad work. Communication.

Agree upfront on how updates happen, how quickly they’ll respond, and who your main contact is. Weekly updates at minimum, daily during critical phases. Ask about their preferred method (phone, text, email, project management app). Written weekly progress reports and same-day response times are what the best contractors offer.

20. What are your working hours, and what days will your crew be on-site?

You need to know when workers arrive, when they leave, and which days they’re at your house. This affects your daily life, your neighbors, and local noise ordinances.

Most crews work Monday through Friday, roughly 7 AM to 4 PM. But ask whether they’ll be at your site every day or splitting time between projects. A crew that only shows up two days a week will double your project timeline. That’s math, not pessimism.

21. What happens if the project falls behind schedule?

Delays cost real money. Extended hotel stays if you’re out of the house. Storage fees. The stress of living in a construction zone longer than planned. You need to understand how delays are handled before they happen.

Some contracts include a “liquidated damages” clause that charges the contractor a daily fee past the agreed completion date. That’s a strong accountability tool. At minimum, they should commit to notifying you immediately when delays arise and providing a revised timeline, not leaving you to wonder.

Subcontractors, Permits, and Warranty

22. Do your subcontractors carry their own licenses and insurance?

Your general contractor is only as reliable as the subs they hire. An unlicensed electrician doing faulty wiring in your home means you end up with a fire hazard and no recourse.

Ask for confirmation that all subcontractors are licensed for their trade and carry their own liability and workers’ comp insurance. Professional contractors keep these records on file and can share them quickly. If it takes them weeks to produce this paperwork, that’s informative.

23. Who is responsible for scheduling and passing inspections?

Building inspections happen at key stages: after framing, after rough plumbing and electrical, and at final completion. Failing one means rework, delays, and more costs. Your general contractor should own this entire process.

They should schedule all inspections, be present when the inspector arrives, and take responsibility for correcting anything the inspector flags. Ask how many inspections they expect for your project and what their plan is if one doesn’t pass on the first try.

24. What warranty do you offer on your work, and what does it cover?

A warranty shows the contractor stands behind what they build. Most reputable contractors offer a minimum one-year workmanship warranty, and many go to two years or beyond. This is separate from manufacturer warranties on materials and equipment.

Get it in writing: what’s covered, what’s excluded, how long it lasts, how claims are handled, and typical response time. A verbal warranty promise is worth exactly the paper it’s not printed on.

Quick Reference Checklist

Print this and bring it to every contractor meeting:

What to Mention or Send Beforehand

Before the contractor comes out for a bid, sending some details ahead of time leads to tighter estimates and more productive meetings.

Your project description and wish list. Even a rough bullet-point list of what you want helps the contractor prepare. “Remove the wall between kitchen and dining room, add an island, replace all cabinets and countertops” is far more useful than “kitchen remodel.”
Photos of the space. Snap pictures of every area involved (current layout, problem spots, anything you want to keep or remove). Texting these over before the visit lets the contractor come with preliminary ideas instead of starting from scratch.
Any existing plans, drawings, or design inspiration. If you’ve worked with a designer, have blueprints from a previous renovation, or have saved reference images, share them. It aligns expectations before the first conversation.
Your budget range. You don’t need to name an exact number, but a ballpark (“we’re thinking $40,000-$55,000 for the kitchen”) helps the contractor gauge whether your vision and your budget are in the same zip code.
Your ideal timeline and any hard deadlines. Hosting Thanksgiving in the new kitchen? Have a baby due in six months? Mention it. Hard deadlines affect scheduling, material lead times, and whether the contractor can realistically take your project on.

Typical Cost Range and Factors

General contractor pricing depends heavily on your project type, scope, and region. Here are some common ranges to use as benchmarks:

Kitchen remodel: $25,000 to $75,000 for a mid-range remodel. High-end or gut renovations with custom cabinetry, structural changes, and premium appliances can push well past $100,000.

Bathroom remodel: $10,000 to $35,000 for a full remodel of a standard-sized bathroom. Adding square footage or relocating plumbing pushes costs higher.

Basement finishing: $20,000 to $60,000 depending on size, whether plumbing is added, and the level of finish (basic rec room vs. full living space with bathroom and kitchenette).

Room addition: $80,000 to $200,000+ depending on size, structural requirements, and finishes. Second-story additions run higher than ground-level expansions.

Whole-home renovation: $100,000 to $400,000+ for a comprehensive remodel of a full house, depending on age, size, and scope.

Factors that move the price:

Project complexity and structural changes. Moving walls, rerouting plumbing, or upgrading electrical panels adds cost fast. Cosmetic updates are cheaper than reconfiguring a floor plan.
Material selections. Stock cabinets vs. custom, laminate vs. quartz, builder-grade fixtures vs. designer. Material choices can swing a kitchen bid by $20,000 or more.
Permit and inspection fees. These vary by municipality but typically add $500 to $3,000 to the project.
Age of the home. Older homes almost always harbor surprises (knob-and-tube wiring, lead paint, asbestos, outdated plumbing) that require remediation before new work begins.
Labor market in your area. Contractor rates vary widely by region. Metropolitan areas and markets with strong construction demand run 20-40% above national averages.
Time of year. Some contractors offer off-season pricing during winter months when demand dips.

Red Flags vs Green Flags

Red Flag	Green Flag
They want a huge upfront payment. More than 10-15% before starting is risky. In some states, taking more than a set amount upfront is literally illegal.	They use a draw schedule tied to milestones, with a small deposit (around 10%) and final payment held until your walkthrough is complete.
No written contract. A handshake deal gives you zero legal protection. If they won’t put it in writing, they don’t intend to be held to it.	They provide a detailed contract covering scope, price, payment schedule, timeline, change order process, warranty, and dispute resolution.
”This price is only good today.” That’s pressure, not a business practice. A confident contractor gives you time to compare bids and check references.	They give you a written quote that’s valid for 30-60 days and encourage you to compare with other bids.
They suggest skipping permits. A contractor who says “we don’t need permits for this” is putting your home, your insurance coverage, and your resale value at risk.	They know exactly which permits your project requires, pull them in their own name, and schedule all required inspections.
Can’t produce license or insurance docs. If they’re legit, this takes five minutes. “I’ll get that to you later” means you won’t get it.	They provide license number, Certificate of Insurance, and bonding information on the spot or within 24 hours.
No physical business address. A contractor with only a P.O. box is harder to track down when problems surface three months later.	They have a verifiable business address, branded vehicles, and a consistent online presence with years of reviews.
The bid is way below everyone else’s. Three bids between $40,000-$50,000 and one at $22,000? That lowball usually means cut corners or a plan to hit you with change orders.	Their bid is competitive and in line with other quotes, with clear line-item detail explaining what you’re paying for.
Cash only. Cash-only requests usually signal someone not paying insurance premiums, not reporting income, and not creating any paper trail.	They accept checks, credit cards, or bank transfers and provide receipts for every payment.

Money-Saving Tips

Get bids during the off-season. Late fall and winter are slower months for many contractors. You’ll have more negotiating leverage, and some offer discounts of 5-15% to keep crews busy.
Be your own demo crew (carefully). Some contractors will reduce the bid if you handle non-structural demolition yourself (removing old cabinets, pulling up carpet, clearing out the space). Just confirm with them first so you don’t touch anything structural, electrical, or plumbing-related.
Choose stock materials over custom. Stock cabinets, standard-size windows, and in-stock tile are dramatically cheaper than custom-ordered alternatives. The quality difference is often smaller than you’d expect.
Finalize your design before construction starts. Change orders are the number one budget killer. Every mid-project change costs more than making the same decision upfront. Nail down your design, materials, and finishes before the contract is signed. A good tape measure is essential for double-checking dimensions and verifying the contractor’s measurements yourself.
Ask about contractor-supplier discounts. Most established GCs get trade pricing on materials (10-30% below retail). Some pass the savings through; others mark it back up. Ask how material pricing is handled and whether you’ll see the actual invoices.
Bundle projects together. If you’re remodeling the kitchen and the bathroom, doing both at once is almost always cheaper than two separate projects. The contractor’s mobilization, dumpster, and overhead costs get spread across a bigger job.

Glossary

Change order: A formal, written modification to the original contract. It documents any change to the project’s scope, materials, cost, or timeline. Both the homeowner and contractor must sign a change order before the changed work begins.
Lien waiver: A document signed by a subcontractor or supplier confirming they’ve been paid and waiving their right to place a mechanic’s lien on your property. You should collect these from your GC at every payment milestone.
Draw schedule: A payment plan that ties your payments to specific project milestones (e.g., 10% at signing, 25% at framing, 25% at rough-in). It protects both sides by ensuring work is completed before money changes hands.
Punch list: A list of minor items that need to be completed, corrected, or touched up before the project is considered finished. You and the contractor create this during the final walkthrough, and all items should be resolved before you release the final payment.
Scope of work: A detailed written description of everything the contractor will do on your project, including tasks, materials, specifications, and deliverables. A clear scope of work prevents misunderstandings and is the backbone of a solid contract.

Helpful Tools and Resources

Our Pick

Project Management Notebook

Keep every bid, change order, payment receipt, and timeline note organized in one place. When you're juggling three contractor quotes and a dozen material decisions, having a single reference saves confusion.

Our Pick

25-Foot Locking Tape Measure

Verify the contractor's measurements yourself. You'll use this during the estimate walkthrough and throughout the project to check that cabinets, countertops, and openings match the plans.

Our Pick

Home Renovation Guide Book

Understanding the basics of framing, plumbing, and electrical helps you communicate better with your contractor and catch potential problems early. Knowledge is the best defense against bad work.

National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) - Find a Remodeler: Search for certified remodelers in your area and access homeowner planning guides from the nation’s largest residential construction trade association.
Better Business Bureau Contractor Lookup: Check any contractor’s BBB rating, complaint history, and customer reviews before signing a contract.
Houzz - Find a General Contractor: Browse contractor portfolios, read verified reviews, and see photos of completed projects similar to yours.

Next Steps

You’ve got the questions. Now here’s how to use them:

Get at least three bids. Use these questions as your interview guide. Compare not just price but how thoroughly and honestly each contractor responds.
Verify everything yourself. Check licenses through your state’s board. Call insurance companies directly. Contact every reference and actually have a conversation.
Read the contract line by line before signing. Make sure it reflects everything you discussed: scope, price, payment schedule, timeline, change order process, and warranty.
Trust your gut. If a contractor is evasive, dismissive, or pushy during the sales process, that behavior only gets worse once they have your money.

For more help, check out our guides on Questions to Ask Before a Kitchen Remodel, Questions to Ask Before a Bathroom Remodel, and Questions to Ask About Permits and Building Codes. You can also visit our Ultimate Guide to Hiring Home Service Professionals for broader advice on hiring any trade.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many general contractors should I get bids from?

Three at minimum. If all three come back in a similar range, you can be pretty confident the pricing is fair for your area. Don’t default to the cheapest. Compare what’s included, how responsive they are, and whether their track record holds up.

Should I hire a general contractor or manage subcontractors myself?

For most projects, a GC saves you time, stress, and often money. They coordinate scheduling between trades, handle permits and inspections, deal with problems as they pop up, and take responsibility for the end result. Managing subs yourself can save the contractor’s markup (usually 15-25%), but it requires construction knowledge, available time, and a willingness to own the liability. Most homeowners underestimate how much work that coordination actually is.

What should a general contractor’s contract include?

At minimum: full scope of work with specifics, total price, payment schedule tied to milestones, start and completion dates, change order process, warranty terms, permit responsibilities, insurance requirements, and a dispute resolution clause. If any of those are missing, ask for them before you sign. Don’t let anyone tell you a shorter contract is “simpler.”

Is it normal for a general contractor to ask for a deposit?

Yes, a small one. The industry norm is about 10% of the total project cost, or no more than $1,000 for smaller jobs. This covers their initial costs for ordering materials and scheduling subs. Anything significantly higher warrants questions. And never pay the final balance until you’ve completed a thorough walkthrough and everything meets your expectations.

How do I verify a general contractor’s license?

Go to your state’s contractor licensing board website. Most have a free search tool where you look up a contractor by name or license number. The listing shows whether the license is active, when it expires, what work it covers, and whether any complaints or disciplinary actions have been filed. You can also call the licensing board directly. It takes about five minutes and it’s one of the most valuable things you can do before hiring.