Sewer line problems are the kind of thing nobody wants to deal with, and the costs can escalate fast if you don’t ask the right questions upfront. A simple blockage might cost $300 to clear. A full sewer line replacement? That can run $5,000 to $15,000 or more. Knowing the right questions to ask a plumber about your sewer line is the difference between making an informed decision and writing a blank check during a stressful situation.
These 14 questions cover everything from diagnosis and repair options to trenchless technology and long-term warranties. Bring this list to the conversation and let the answers guide your decision.
Before You Contact a Plumber
Take these steps before making any calls. They’ll help you describe the problem accurately and evaluate the responses you get.
- Note every symptom you’re experiencing. Slow drains in multiple fixtures, gurgling toilets, sewage smell in the yard, wet spots in the lawn, or sewage backup in the basement. Write down what’s happening and when it started.
- Check if multiple drains are affected. A single slow drain is usually a localized clog. When every drain in the house is sluggish or backing up, that points to the main sewer line.
- Locate your sewer cleanout (if you can find it). It’s usually a white PVC pipe with a cap, sticking a few inches out of the ground near your foundation or in the basement. Knowing where it is saves the plumber time.
- Look up your property’s sewer line history. If you’ve had sewer issues before, previous repair records or inspection reports are valuable context for the plumber.
- Confirm whether you or the city owns the affected section. In most areas, you own the sewer lateral from your house to the property line. The city maintains the main from the property line to the street. If the problem is on the city’s portion, you might not owe anything.
Diagnosis and Inspection
1. Will you run a camera inspection before recommending any repairs?
A camera inspection is the only way to see exactly what’s going on inside your sewer line. Without it, the plumber is guessing, and guessing leads to either unnecessary work or missed problems. The camera shows the location, type, and severity of the issue: root intrusion, cracked pipe, bellied section, offset joint, or buildup.
A sewer camera inspection typically costs $150 to $500 depending on your area and the length of the line. Some plumbers include it free if you hire them for the repair. Either way, never approve a major sewer repair without a camera inspection first. Ask to see the footage yourself. A reputable plumber will show you exactly what the camera found and explain it.
2. What exactly did the inspection reveal, and how bad is it?
After the camera run, you need specifics. “Your sewer line is in bad shape” isn’t an answer. You want to know: Where is the damage? What type of damage is it? How much of the line is affected? Is the pipe structurally compromised, or is it a partial blockage?
The plumber should be able to point to a specific location (measured in feet from the cleanout) and describe the problem clearly. Root intrusion at 35 feet, a collapsed section at 50 feet, a belly (sag) between 20 and 30 feet: those are the kinds of answers that let you evaluate your options intelligently.
3. What is the pipe material, and how does that affect my options?
Older homes (pre-1970s) often have clay, cast iron, or Orangeburg (a tar-paper composite that’s notorious for collapsing). Newer homes typically have PVC or ABS plastic. The pipe material matters because it determines which repair methods are viable and how urgently you need to act.
Cast iron lasts about 50 to 75 years but corrodes from the inside out. Clay is durable but the joints crack and let roots in. Orangeburg has a lifespan of roughly 30 to 50 years and deteriorates rapidly once it starts failing. If your pipe is Orangeburg, replacement rather than repair is almost always the recommendation, because patching deteriorated Orangeburg just postpones the inevitable.
Repair Options
4. Can this be fixed with a repair, or does the whole line need replacing?
This is where things get expensive, so you want an honest assessment. A localized crack or root intrusion at a single joint can often be fixed with a spot repair ($1,500 to $4,000). But if the camera shows damage along 30 or 40 feet of pipe, or multiple problem areas throughout the line, full replacement makes more financial sense than patching several spots that’ll just fail again.
Ask the plumber to explain the reasoning behind their recommendation. If they jump straight to full replacement without discussing less invasive options first, get a second opinion. Conversely, if they want to do a spot repair on a 60-year-old clay line that’s cracking in five places, that’s also worth questioning.
5. Is trenchless repair an option for my situation?
Trenchless methods (pipe lining and pipe bursting) can save your yard, driveway, and landscaping from the devastation of traditional excavation. Pipe lining (also called CIPP, or cured-in-place pipe) inserts a resin-coated liner into the existing pipe that hardens into a new pipe within the old one. Pipe bursting pulls a new pipe through the old one, breaking the old pipe outward as it goes.
Not every situation qualifies. Trenchless methods require the existing pipe to be relatively intact and accessible from both ends. Severely collapsed pipes, back-pitched sections, or lines with multiple sharp bends may require traditional excavation. If the plumber says trenchless won’t work, ask them to explain specifically why. And if they only offer traditional excavation, ask whether a trenchless specialist should take a look.
6. What are the pros and cons of each repair method you’re proposing?
Every repair method has trade-offs, and you deserve a straight comparison:
Traditional excavation gives the crew direct access to the pipe. It’s the most thorough approach and works in any situation, but it tears up your yard, driveway, or landscaping. Restoration costs (re-sodding, repaving, replanting) add $1,000 to $5,000+ to the bill.
Pipe lining (CIPP) is less disruptive but slightly reduces the pipe’s internal diameter. It works best for cracks, joint separation, and minor root intrusion. Typical cost: $80 to $250 per linear foot.
Pipe bursting replaces the old pipe entirely with new material and can even upsize the diameter. It requires access pits at each end but avoids a full trench. Typical cost: $60 to $200 per linear foot.
A good plumber presents these options with honest trade-offs instead of pushing whichever method they specialize in.
Cost, Timeline, and Permits
7. What will this cost, and can I get an itemized written estimate?
Sewer line work is expensive, and a vague verbal number isn’t good enough. You need a written, itemized estimate that breaks out: camera inspection, excavation or trenchless setup, pipe materials, labor, permit fees, backfill and compaction, surface restoration, and any contingencies.
Ask: “Under what circumstances would the final bill be different from this estimate?” Get that answer in writing too. Surprises at depth (unexpected rock, additional damage, utility conflicts) are legitimate cost variables, but you should know the per-foot or per-hour rate for extra work before it starts.
8. Does this job require a permit, and who handles that?
Sewer line repair and replacement almost always require a plumbing or excavation permit from your municipality. The permit triggers an inspection, which confirms the work meets code. Skipping it creates problems when you sell the house and can void your homeowner’s insurance coverage for sewer-related claims.
The plumber should handle the permit as standard practice and include the fee in the estimate (usually $100 to $500). If they suggest working without a permit, that’s a serious red flag.
9. How long will the job take, and what disruption should I expect?
A spot repair or trenchless lining typically takes one to two days. A full traditional replacement can take three to five days depending on the line’s length, depth, and what’s above it (concrete driveway, mature trees, etc.). During the work, you may lose use of your plumbing for several hours each day.
Ask specifically: “Will we be able to use toilets and sinks during the work, or do we need to plan around full shutoffs?” If you’re going to be without plumbing for an extended period, you need to know that in advance so you can make arrangements.
Warranty and Long-Term Protection
10. What warranty do you offer on the repair work and materials?
Sewer line repairs aren’t cheap, so the warranty matters. Pipe lining often comes with a manufacturer warranty of 10 to 50 years on the liner material, plus the plumber’s workmanship warranty on the installation. New PVC pipe installed via excavation or pipe bursting should carry a warranty of at least two to five years on labor and often a lifetime warranty on the pipe material itself.
Get every warranty detail in writing. What’s covered? What’s excluded? Who handles claims, the plumber or the manufacturer? Does the warranty transfer to a new owner if you sell the house?
11. What caused this problem, and how do I prevent it from happening again?
Understanding the root cause (pun intended) helps you avoid a repeat. Common culprits include tree root intrusion, ground shifting, pipe deterioration due to age, grease buildup, and flushing items that don’t belong in a sewer line.
If tree roots are the issue, your plumber should recommend whether to remove or relocate the offending tree, install a root barrier, or use periodic root treatment (copper sulfate or foaming root killer) as maintenance. If grease buildup caused the blockage, they should explain proper disposal practices. You’re not just paying to fix today’s problem; you’re paying for advice that prevents tomorrow’s.
12. Should I consider a maintenance plan or periodic camera inspections?
For homes with older sewer lines, periodic camera inspections (every two to three years) can catch developing problems before they become emergencies. Some plumbing companies offer maintenance plans that include annual inspections, priority scheduling, and discounts on repairs.
Whether a maintenance plan is worth it depends on your pipe’s age and material. If you’ve got a 40-year-old clay line that’s showing early signs of root intrusion, regular monitoring is smart. If you just installed a brand new PVC line, you probably don’t need to inspect it again for 10 years.
Second Opinions and Verification
13. Can I keep a copy of the camera inspection footage?
Yes, and any plumber who refuses this request is raising a red flag. The footage is the diagnostic evidence that justifies the repair recommendation. You need it to get a meaningful second opinion, to verify that the repair was done correctly (with a post-repair camera run), and for your own records.
Most plumbers can email or text the video file, or save it to a USB drive. Some provide a written report alongside the footage. If a plumber won’t share the footage, ask yourself why.
14. Do you recommend I get a second opinion before proceeding?
This question catches a lot of plumbers off guard, and their reaction tells you a lot. A confident professional who stands behind their diagnosis will say something like, “Absolutely, go ahead. You’ll hear the same thing.” A plumber who pressures you to commit immediately, or gets defensive about a second opinion, may not be giving you the full picture.
For any repair over $3,000, a second opinion is worth the extra $150 to $500 for another camera inspection. The second plumber might confirm the first recommendation (giving you peace of mind), or they might offer a less invasive (and less expensive) alternative you didn’t know existed.
What to Mention or Send Beforehand
Before the plumber arrives, provide these details to speed up the process:
- A list of every symptom and when each started. “All drains have been slow for two weeks, and we had a backup in the basement shower on Tuesday” is much more useful than “something’s wrong with the drains.”
- The age of your home and any known pipe material. Older homes with original plumbing give the plumber a head start on what they’ll likely find.
- Photos or video of visible problems. Wet spots in the yard, sewage seeping from the cleanout, or backup in a basement drain. Document it.
- Previous sewer work records. If the line has been repaired, replaced, or scoped before, those records provide critical context.
- The location of your sewer cleanout. If you know where it is, mention it. If you don’t, that’s fine too, but it saves the plumber time searching.
Typical Cost Range and Factors
Sewer line work varies enormously based on the repair type, pipe length, depth, and your location. Here’s what to expect:
Camera inspection only: $150 to $500. Some plumbers waive this fee if you hire them for the repair.
Drain cleaning/rooter service (clearing a blockage): $200 to $600 for mechanical snaking. Hydro-jetting runs $350 to $900.
Spot repair (one section of pipe): $1,500 to $4,000 depending on depth, location, and method.
Trenchless pipe lining (CIPP): $80 to $250 per linear foot. For a typical 50-foot residential sewer lateral, that’s $4,000 to $12,500.
Trenchless pipe bursting: $60 to $200 per linear foot. For 50 feet: $3,000 to $10,000.
Traditional excavation and replacement: $50 to $250 per linear foot. For 50 feet: $2,500 to $12,500, plus $1,000 to $5,000+ for surface restoration.
Key cost drivers:
- Pipe depth. Deeper pipes require more excavation, shoring, and backfill. Lines buried 6+ feet deep cost significantly more.
- What’s above the pipe. A line running under a concrete driveway, patio, or the foundation itself adds complexity and restoration costs.
- Pipe material and condition. Severely collapsed pipes limit your options and may require traditional excavation even if you’d prefer trenchless.
- Length of the affected section. A 10-foot repair is a fraction of the cost of replacing 80 feet of pipe.
- Your region. Urban areas with higher labor costs and more utility conflicts run 20% to 40% above rural rates.
- Permit and inspection fees. Usually $100 to $500 depending on your municipality.
Red Flags vs. Green Flags
| Red Flag | Green Flag |
|---|---|
| Recommends repair without running a camera first. Guessing costs you money. | Insists on a camera inspection before making any recommendations. |
| Won’t share the camera footage with you. What are they hiding? | Gives you a copy of the footage and walks you through what they found. |
| Jumps to full replacement without discussing repair or trenchless options. | Presents multiple options with honest trade-offs for each approach. |
| Verbal estimate only, or refuses to itemize the costs. | Written, itemized estimate that breaks out every cost component. |
| Pressures you to decide immediately. “This could get worse any minute.” | Gives you time to get a second opinion and keeps the quote valid for 30+ days. |
| Suggests skipping the permit to save money. | Pulls permits as a standard part of the job and includes the fee in the estimate. |
| No warranty, or a warranty that only covers 90 days. | Multi-year workmanship warranty plus manufacturer warranty on materials, all in writing. |
Money-Saving Tips
- Get a camera inspection before authorizing any work. The $150 to $500 inspection cost can save you thousands by confirming whether you actually need repair or just a good cleaning.
- Get at least two opinions for any job over $3,000. A second camera inspection and estimate costs a few hundred dollars and could save you several thousand if the first plumber recommended more work than necessary.
- Ask about trenchless options. Trenchless repair avoids the cost of tearing up and restoring your yard, driveway, or landscaping, which can add $1,000 to $5,000+ to a traditional dig.
- Check your homeowner’s insurance and home warranty. Some policies cover sewer line repair or replacement, especially for sudden and accidental damage. Service line coverage riders are available for $50 to $100 per year and can cover up to $10,000 to $15,000 in repairs.
- Confirm who owns the problem section. If the blockage or damage is on the city’s portion of the sewer main, the repair may be the municipality’s responsibility, not yours. Call your city’s public works department to check.
- Schedule during the slower season. Late fall and winter tend to be slower for sewer contractors. You may get better pricing and faster scheduling outside of the spring and summer rush.
Quick Reference Checklist
Bring this to your plumber appointment or phone consultation:
- Will you run a camera inspection before recommending repairs?
- What exactly did the inspection reveal?
- What is the pipe material, and how does that affect my options?
- Can this be fixed with a repair, or does the whole line need replacing?
- Is trenchless repair an option for my situation?
- What are the pros and cons of each repair method?
- What will this cost, and can I get an itemized estimate?
- Does this job require a permit?
- How long will the job take, and what disruption should I expect?
- What warranty do you offer on the repair and materials?
- What caused this, and how do I prevent it from recurring?
- Should I consider a maintenance plan or periodic inspections?
- Can I keep a copy of the camera footage?
- Do you recommend I get a second opinion?
Glossary
- Sewer lateral: The pipe that connects your home’s plumbing to the city sewer main, typically running from your foundation to the street or property line. You’re responsible for maintaining and repairing this section.
- CIPP (Cured-in-Place Pipe): A trenchless repair method where a resin-saturated liner is inserted into the damaged pipe and cured (hardened) in place, forming a new pipe within the old one. Also called pipe lining or relining.
- Pipe bursting: A trenchless replacement method that pulls a new pipe through the old one while simultaneously breaking the old pipe outward. Requires access pits at each end but avoids digging a full trench.
- Belly (sag): A low spot in the sewer line where the pipe has sunk due to soil settlement or improper installation. Waste and water collect in the belly, causing slow drainage and recurring blockages.
- Cleanout: An access point (usually a capped PVC or cast iron pipe) that allows plumbers to insert cameras, snakes, or hydro-jetting equipment into the sewer line. Most homes have at least one near the foundation.
Helpful Tools and Resources
A basic endoscope camera that connects to your phone ($30 to $80) lets you peek inside cleanouts and drain openings yourself. It won't replace a professional sewer camera, but it can help you see obvious blockages before calling a plumber.
If your cleanout cap is cracked, missing, or letting odors escape, a replacement PVC plug costs a few dollars and takes seconds to install. Keep a spare so you're never without one.
Monthly enzyme treatments break down grease, soap, and organic buildup inside your drain and sewer lines without harsh chemicals. A good preventive measure that costs pennies per treatment.
- EPA Septic and Sewer Information: Federal guidelines on sewer systems, maintenance best practices, and environmental considerations for homeowners.
- NASSCO (National Association of Sewer Service Companies): Industry standards for sewer inspection and rehabilitation. Their contractor search can help you find certified trenchless repair specialists.
- Better Business Bureau: Check complaint history and reviews on any plumbing company before authorizing expensive sewer work.
- [Your Municipality’s Public Works Department]: Contact them to determine where your sewer lateral ends and the city’s main begins. This boundary determines who’s responsible for the repair.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if I have a sewer line problem vs. a simple clog?
The biggest clue is whether multiple fixtures are affected. If only one sink drains slowly, it’s probably a localized clog. But if toilets, showers, and sinks throughout the house are all backing up or draining sluggishly, that points to the main sewer line. Other signs include gurgling sounds from drains when you flush a toilet, sewage odor in the yard, and unexplained wet patches in the lawn above the sewer line path.
Is trenchless repair as durable as traditional pipe replacement?
Yes, in most cases. CIPP liners are rated for 50+ years and create a smooth, jointless interior that actually resists root intrusion better than traditional segmented pipe. Pipe bursting installs brand new HDPE pipe, which has a similar lifespan. Both methods meet the same code requirements as traditional replacement. The main trade-off is that trenchless methods cost slightly more per foot than basic excavation, but you save significantly on surface restoration.
Does homeowner’s insurance cover sewer line repairs?
Standard policies usually don’t cover sewer line replacement due to age, wear, or root intrusion. However, many insurers offer a “service line coverage” rider for $50 to $100 per year that covers sewer line repair and replacement up to $10,000 to $15,000. If the damage was caused by a sudden, accidental event (like a construction crew breaking the pipe), your standard policy may cover it. Check your policy and call your agent to ask specifically about sewer line coverage.
How long does a sewer line replacement last?
New PVC pipe installed properly has a projected lifespan of 75 to 100+ years. HDPE (used in pipe bursting) is similarly durable. CIPP liners are warrantied for 50+ years by most manufacturers. The key phrase is “installed properly.” Poor installation, inadequate slope, and failure to address the root cause (like nearby tree roots) can shorten any pipe’s lifespan dramatically.
Can tree roots come back after a sewer line repair?
If you repaired the line but didn’t address the tree, yes. Roots seek out moisture, and they’ll find new entry points at joints or connections. If root intrusion was the cause, your plumber should discuss either removing the tree, installing a root barrier, or committing to periodic root treatment. Trenchless lining is particularly effective against future root intrusion because the cured liner creates a seamless interior with no joints for roots to penetrate.
Next Steps
Start by getting a camera inspection from a licensed plumber. Don’t authorize any major repair until you’ve seen the footage yourself and understand exactly what’s wrong, where it is, and what your options are. For any job over $3,000, get a second opinion. The extra cost of another inspection is negligible compared to the total repair bill.
For more plumbing guidance, check out our Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Plumber checklist and our Complete Guide to Hiring Home Service Professionals.