I’ve seen homeowners get three quotes for the same roof that ranged from $8,000 to $25,000. Same house, same shingles, wildly different numbers. That alone should tell you why asking the right questions to ask a roofer before signing a contract matters so much.
Here’s the thing: most people only replace a roof once or twice in their lives. You’re not supposed to be a roofing expert. But you don’t need to be. You just need the right checklist and 30 minutes of conversation with each contractor. The answers will tell you nearly everything.
These 19 questions are organized so you can work through them during an estimate or consultation. Print this out, bring it to your next appointment, and let the responses do the talking.
Before You Contact a Roofer
A little homework before you pick up the phone goes a long way. You’ll get better estimates, ask sharper questions, and waste less of everyone’s time.
- Know your roof’s approximate age and history. Check your closing documents or ask a previous owner. If you know the last time it was replaced or repaired, share that upfront. It helps the roofer assess what they’re working with.
- Identify the problem or goal clearly. Are you dealing with a few missing shingles, an active leak, or a full replacement? Being specific keeps the conversation focused and prevents unnecessary upselling. Use compact binoculars to inspect from the ground and take photos of what you see.
- Check your homeowner’s insurance policy. Review your coverage for roof damage, including deductibles and any exclusions for age or material type. If you’re filing a storm claim, have your claim number ready.
- Research your HOA restrictions. Some HOAs dictate shingle color, material type, or even the brand you can use. Find this out before you get three bids on a material your HOA won’t approve.
- Look up your state’s contractor licensing requirements. A quick search for “[your state] roofing contractor license” tells you exactly what to expect so you can verify credentials on the spot.
Licensing, Insurance, and Roofing Credentials
1. Are you licensed and registered to do roofing work in this state?
Licensing requirements vary wildly by state. Some require a specific roofing license; others lump it under general contracting. But here’s what doesn’t vary: an unlicensed roofer has zero accountability if they botch your roof. Worse, hiring one could void your homeowner’s insurance on roof-related claims.
Ask for a license number on the spot. Then verify it yourself on your state’s contractor licensing board website. Takes two minutes. If they hesitate, get vague, or say they “don’t really need one,” that’s your cue to leave.
2. Do you carry general liability insurance and workers’ compensation?
This one isn’t negotiable. If an uninsured worker falls off your roof, you could be on the hook financially. General liability covers damage to your property. Workers’ comp covers injuries to the crew.
Tip: Don’t just accept a printed Certificate of Insurance. Call the insurance company on the certificate and confirm the policy is actually active. Policies lapse all the time, and some contractors hand out expired documents. You want at least $1 million in general liability coverage.
3. How long has your company been in business under this name?
Roofing is one of those industries where shady operators close up shop, dodge their warranty claims and bad reviews, and pop back up under a brand new name six months later.
Three to five years under the same name is a reasonable floor. Ask for references from projects completed two or more years ago, not just last month’s jobs. Newer companies aren’t automatically bad, but dig deeper into the owner’s background before committing.
4. Are you certified by any roofing material manufacturers?
GAF, CertainTeed, Owens Corning: the big manufacturers all run certification programs like GAF Master Elite or CertainTeed SELECT ShingleMaster. These require specific training, insurance levels, and installation standards. The real perk? Certified contractors can offer enhanced warranties that regular installers simply can’t.
A GAF Master Elite contractor, for example, can offer the Golden Pledge warranty covering both materials and workmanship for up to 25 years. A non-certified installer working with the same shingles? You’ll get a fraction of that coverage.
Roofing Materials and Installation Details
5. What roofing materials do you recommend for my home, and why?
Not every material works on every roof. Your roof’s slope, your climate, HOA rules, and your budget all factor in. A roofer who pushes the same product on every customer without evaluating your situation is skipping the homework.
A good answer considers your roof pitch, ventilation, and local weather. They should explain trade-offs between architectural shingles vs. three-tab, whether metal roofing makes sense for your area. Be cautious if someone pushes only the most expensive option without explaining what you actually gain from the upgrade.
6. What type of underlayment will you install?
Underlayment is the water-resistant barrier under your shingles, basically your roof’s backup plan if shingles get damaged or blown off. There are three types: felt (old-school tar paper), synthetic, and self-adhering peel-and-stick.
Synthetic is the industry standard now because it handles moisture better than felt and lays flatter. If you’re in a cold climate or anywhere prone to ice dams, you should also see self-adhering ice and water shield along the eaves, valleys, and around penetrations. A roofer who plans to use nothing but 15-pound felt across the entire roof? Ask them why.
7. How will you handle the flashing around chimneys, vents, and skylights?
Honestly, flashing failures cause more roof leaks than most people realize. Flashing is the metal installed wherever the roof meets a wall, chimney, vent, or skylight. Reusing old, corroded flashing is a shortcut that almost guarantees leaks within a year or two.
What a good answer sounds like: “We replace all step flashing, counter flashing, and pipe boots with new material.” They should specifically address your chimney: whether they’ll cut into the mortar joint for counter flashing or use a surface-mount option with proper sealant.
What a bad answer sounds like: “We’ll reuse what’s in good shape.” That’s code for “we don’t want to spend the time.”
8. Will you replace the drip edge along the eaves and rakes?
Drip edge is the metal strip along the edges of your roof that directs water away from the fascia and into the gutter. Many building codes now require it on new installations. Skipping it can void your warranty and invite water damage along the roofline.
The answer should be a clear yes. Aluminum is standard. It goes underneath the underlayment along the eaves and on top of it along the rakes. Any roofer who calls drip edge “optional” is waving a red flag at you.
9. How will you handle roof ventilation?
Poor attic ventilation can shorten your shingle life by years, cause ice dams, and jack up your energy bills. A balanced system needs intake vents at the soffits and exhaust vents near the ridge.
The roofer should assess what you have now and recommend a balanced setup, typically a ridge vent paired with soffit vents. One thing to watch for: mixing ventilation types. Adding a ridge vent while leaving a powered attic fan running creates competing airflow and actually makes things worse. A knowledgeable roofer will catch this.
Pricing, Payment, and Contract Questions for Roofers
10. Can you provide a detailed, written estimate that breaks down materials and labor?
A single lump-sum number tells you almost nothing. You can’t compare bids fairly, and you have no idea what you’re actually paying for.
You want a line-item estimate that spells out the shingle brand and product line, underlayment type, flashing, drip edge, ventilation components, number of squares (one square = 100 square feet), tear-off and disposal costs, and any extras like replacing rotted decking. A roofer who won’t itemize may be hiding cheap materials or padding their margins.
11. What is your payment schedule, and do you require a deposit?
How a roofer structures payment tells you a lot. Full payment upfront? That’s one of the oldest roofing scams out there.
A reasonable deposit, somewhere between 10% and 30%, covers material costs. The balance should be due after the work is finished and you’ve inspected it. Some roofers split it into three payments: deposit, mid-project, and final. That’s fine too. What’s not fine: cash-only demands, no written payment terms, or anyone who wants the full amount before they’ve laid a single shingle.
12. What happens if you find damaged decking during the tear-off?
This is where surprise costs live. Rotted or damaged decking (the plywood or OSB beneath your shingles) often can’t be detected until the old roof comes off. It’s common, and it shouldn’t catch anyone off guard.
What to get in writing: A per-sheet or per-square-foot price for decking replacement (typically $75-$150 per sheet of plywood/OSB). The contract should also say they’ll contact you for approval before doing additional work beyond a specified dollar amount. No blank checks.
13. Is everything we’ve discussed included in the written contract?
Short answer: if it’s not in the contract, it doesn’t exist.
Verbal promises vanish the moment there’s a dispute. Every detail (materials, cleanup, warranty terms, timeline) needs to be written down. The contract should include the full scope of work, material specs (brand, product, color), start and completion dates, total cost, payment schedule, warranty info, change order process, and dispute resolution. Read every line. Every single one.
Roof Warranty and Workmanship Questions
14. What warranty do you offer on your workmanship?
Two warranties matter on a new roof: the manufacturer’s warranty on materials and the contractor’s warranty on labor and installation. Here’s the catch: a manufacturer’s warranty is effectively worthless if the roof was installed incorrectly, because most material warranties explicitly exclude problems caused by bad installation.
Look for a workmanship warranty of at least five years, ideally ten or more, in writing. Ask what it covers, what voids it, and whether it transfers if you sell the house. A contractor who won’t warranty their work beyond a year or two? They’re telling you something about their confidence in their own crews.
15. What does the manufacturer’s warranty cover, and what are the exclusions?
Manufacturer warranties range from 25 years to “lifetime,” but the fine print is where people get burned. Many standard warranties are prorated, meaning coverage shrinks over time. Some only cover the cost of replacement materials, not the labor to install them.
Ask the roofer to walk you through the specific warranty tier. GAF, for instance, has a standard System Plus warranty, an enhanced Silver Pledge, and the top-tier Golden Pledge. Each covers different things. Is it prorated or non-prorated? Does it include labor? What’s the claims process? These details matter more than the number of years printed on a brochure.
16. What could void either warranty?
This trips people up every time. Both manufacturer and workmanship warranties have exclusions, and most homeowners don’t learn about them until they file a claim and get denied.
Common warranty-killers include poor attic ventilation, skipped maintenance, unauthorized modifications, and damage from pressure washing. A transparent roofer will proactively explain these conditions. They’ll tell you about ventilation requirements, maintenance expectations (keeping gutters clear, removing debris), and restrictions on walking on the roof. If they bring this stuff up without you asking, that’s actually a great sign.
Roofing Project Timeline, Process, and Cleanup
17. What is your projected start date and how long will the job take?
Roofing season gets booked fast, especially in spring and after major storms. A roofer who promises to start tomorrow either doesn’t have enough work to stay busy (not great) or is overpromising (also not great).
Most residential roof replacements take one to three days depending on size, weather, and complexity. Get a specific start date or narrow window, not “sometime next month.” Ask how weather delays are handled and how they’ll communicate schedule changes. Those details belong in the contract.
18. Who will be on-site supervising the work each day?
Some roofing companies subcontract the actual installation to crews they don’t directly employ. That’s not automatically a deal-breaker, but you need to know who’s watching the quality of work happening on your roof.
Get a name. A project manager or foreman should be present during the work. Ask whether the crew members are employees or subs. If subs, confirm they’re insured and that the roofing company takes full responsibility for their work under the contract.
19. What does your cleanup process look like when the job is finished?
A roof tear-off creates a serious mess: old shingles, nails, felt paper, flashing, broken material. Nails left in your yard will find tires, bare feet, and dog paws. How a roofer handles cleanup honestly reflects how they handle the entire job.
Expect tarps protecting your landscaping and siding during tear-off, a dump trailer or dumpster on-site, and a thorough cleanup that includes running a magnetic nail sweeper across your yard, driveway, and walkways. The contract should state that they’re responsible for all debris removal and that you’ll do a final walkthrough together before the last payment is released.
Quick Reference Checklist
Print this and bring it to every roofing estimate:
- Are you licensed and registered in this state?
- Do you carry general liability and workers’ comp insurance?
- How long have you been in business under this name?
- Are you certified by any roofing material manufacturers?
- What roofing materials do you recommend for my home?
- What type of underlayment will you install?
- How will you handle flashing around chimneys, vents, and skylights?
- Will you replace the drip edge along eaves and rakes?
- How will you address roof ventilation?
- Can you provide a detailed, itemized written estimate?
- What is your payment schedule and deposit requirement?
- How do you handle hidden damage like rotted decking?
- Is everything we discussed included in the written contract?
- What is your workmanship warranty and how long does it last?
- What does the manufacturer’s warranty cover and exclude?
- What could void either warranty?
- What is your projected start date and job duration?
- Who will supervise the work on-site each day?
- What does your cleanup process include?
What to Mention or Send Beforehand
Once you’ve narrowed it down to a few roofers you want to meet, sharing some details ahead of time makes the estimate visit faster and more accurate.
- Your roof’s approximate age and any known history. If you know when it was last replaced, what material is on there now, or whether previous repairs were done, pass that along. It saves the roofer from guessing and gives them a head start.
- Photos of problem areas. Got a leak, missing shingles, or visible damage? Snap a few photos from the ground or through an attic access point and text or email them over. Don’t climb up there yourself; just give them what you can safely see.
- Your insurance claim information (if applicable). If you’re filing a storm damage claim, share your insurance company name, claim number, and adjuster contact. Many roofers work with insurance regularly and can coordinate directly.
- HOA guidelines on roofing materials. If your neighborhood has restrictions on shingle type, color, or brand, send that document over before the estimate. It prevents a wasted visit if the roofer’s preferred materials aren’t on the approved list.
- Your budget range, if you’re comfortable sharing it. You don’t have to reveal your exact number, but a ballpark helps the roofer tailor recommendations. “We’re hoping to stay under $15,000” is enough to steer the conversation productively.
Typical Cost Range and Factors
Roofing costs vary dramatically by region, materials, and roof complexity. Here’s what you can generally expect:
Full roof replacement (asphalt shingles): $8,000 to $25,000 for an average-sized home (1,500-2,500 sq ft). Higher-end architectural shingles push toward the top of that range, while basic three-tab shingles land closer to the bottom.
Metal roofing replacement: $15,000 to $40,000+ depending on the metal type (standing seam vs. metal shingles) and roof size.
Roof repairs (patches, leak fixes, flashing replacement): $300 to $2,500 for most common repairs. Isolated leak fixes and a few missing shingles are on the low end; valley or flashing overhauls run higher.
Factors that move the price:
- Roof size (measured in squares). One square covers 100 square feet. More squares means more materials and labor.
- Pitch and steepness. Steeper roofs require extra safety equipment and take longer, which adds to labor costs. Anything above a 6/12 pitch bumps the price noticeably.
- Number of layers to tear off. Removing two layers of old shingles costs more than one. Some jurisdictions cap how many layers you can have.
- Decking condition. Rotted or damaged plywood/OSB underneath adds $75-$150 per sheet to replace, and you won’t know the full extent until tear-off begins.
- Complexity (dormers, valleys, chimneys, skylights). Every penetration and angle increases labor time and flashing requirements.
- Material choice. Three-tab asphalt is cheapest, followed by architectural shingles, then metal, tile, and slate at the top.
- Your region. Urban areas and high-cost-of-living markets run 20-40% above national averages.
Red Flags vs Green Flags
| Red Flag | Green Flag |
|---|---|
| They want full payment upfront. No reputable roofer asks for 100% before starting. A deposit is normal, but the full amount before work begins is a scam. | They offer a reasonable deposit (10-30%) with the balance due after completion and your inspection. |
| They showed up at your door after a storm. “Storm chasers” target neighborhoods after severe weather, offer rock-bottom prices, do shoddy work, and skip town before the first leak appears. | They’re a local company you contacted yourself, with a verifiable physical address and years of presence in your area. |
| No written estimate or contract. A handshake deal or a price scribbled on a business card isn’t a professional operation. | They provide a detailed, itemized written estimate and a thorough contract that covers scope, materials, timeline, and warranties. |
| ”This price is only good today.” Classic pressure tactic designed to stop you from getting competing bids. | They encourage you to get multiple bids and take your time deciding. Their quote stands for 30+ days. |
| No physical business address. A P.O. box doesn’t count. If they’re not around in two years, your warranty is wallpaper. | They have a real office or shop you can visit, show up in branded trucks, and appear in local business directories. |
| They suggest skipping permits. No permit means no inspection, which means problems when you sell and liability if the work doesn’t meet code. | They pull all required permits themselves and schedule inspections as part of the standard process. |
| They want to shingle over the old roof. A second layer hides damage, adds weight, and often voids manufacturer warranties. | They recommend a full tear-off, inspect the decking, and explain why starting fresh protects your investment. |
Money-Saving Tips
- Get estimates in the off-season. Late fall and winter (outside of storm season) are slower months for roofers. Many offer lower pricing or off-season discounts to keep crews working. You can save 10-15% just by timing it right.
- Ask about manufacturer rebates and promotions. GAF, Owens Corning, and CertainTeed all run seasonal promotions. Your roofer may not mention these unless you ask.
- Don’t automatically go with the cheapest bid. Compare scope. The lowest number often excludes items the other bids include. Compare line by line so you’re looking at equal value, not just the bottom number.
- Bundle repairs with a neighbor. Some roofers offer multi-home discounts if they can do two or three roofs on the same street during the same mobilization. It cuts their travel and setup costs, and they’ll pass some of that savings to you.
- Choose architectural shingles over premium designer styles. Standard architectural shingles offer excellent durability and curb appeal at a fraction of the cost of designer or luxury lines. Unless you need a specific aesthetic, the mid-range product is usually the sweet spot.
- Keep up with maintenance to extend your roof’s life. Cleaning gutters, trimming overhanging branches, and replacing damaged shingles promptly can add five to ten years before you need a full replacement. That’s thousands of dollars in delayed costs. A waterproof emergency tarp in the garage protects a damaged section during storms until a professional can get out.
Glossary
- Square: A roofing unit of measurement equal to 100 square feet. When a roofer says your roof is “30 squares,” that means 3,000 square feet of roof surface. Bids are often priced per square.
- Underlayment: The water-resistant barrier installed directly on the roof deck, underneath the shingles. It’s your second line of defense if water gets past the shingles. Types include felt paper, synthetic, and self-adhering ice and water shield.
- Flashing: Thin metal pieces installed at joints and transitions, such as around chimneys, skylights, vents, and where the roof meets a wall. Flashing directs water away from these vulnerable areas and is one of the most common failure points on a roof.
- Soffit: The underside of the roof overhang, between the edge of the roof and the exterior wall. Soffits often contain intake vents that are critical for proper attic ventilation.
- Ridge vent: A ventilation component installed along the peak (ridge) of the roof. It allows hot, moist air to escape from the attic and works in tandem with soffit vents to create balanced airflow.
- Drip edge: An L-shaped metal strip installed along the eaves and rakes (edges) of the roof. It channels water away from the fascia board and into the gutter, preventing rot and water damage at the roofline.
Helpful Tools and Resources
Check your roof from the ground safely. Spot missing shingles, cracked flashing, and damaged vent boots without climbing a ladder. Useful for your own pre-estimate review and post-job inspection.
When a storm damages your roof and the roofer can't get there for a few days, a tarp over the damaged area prevents interior water damage. Keep one in storage for emergencies.
A tube of roofing sealant can temporarily seal a small leak around a vent boot or flashing until the roofer arrives. Not a permanent fix, but it buys you time and prevents water damage.
- NRCA Consumer Guide (National Roofing Contractors Association): Free guides on choosing roofing materials, finding qualified contractors, and understanding warranties from the leading industry trade association.
- GAF Roofing Calculator: Find GAF-certified contractors in your area and explore material options. GAF is the largest roofing manufacturer in North America.
- Better Business Bureau Contractor Search: Look up any roofing company’s BBB rating, complaint history, and customer reviews before you sign anything.
Next Steps
Get at least three written estimates and use this checklist to compare them side by side. The contractor who gives clear, direct answers to these questions, and backs everything up in writing, is usually the one worth hiring. Vague answers and verbal promises? Those are your signal to keep looking.
For more help with your roofing project, check out our guides on Questions to Ask About a Roof Replacement, Questions to Ask a Roofer After Storm Damage, and Questions to Ask About Roof Warranty Coverage. You can also visit our complete guide to hiring home service professionals for advice that applies to any contractor.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many roofing estimates should I get before making a decision?
Three is the minimum. It gives you a realistic price range for your area and makes it dead simple to spot bids that are way too high or suspiciously low. Don’t just compare bottom-line numbers. Compare the scope of work and materials side by side.
Should I always go with the lowest bid?
No, and this is where a lot of people go wrong. The lowest bid often means cheaper materials, skipped steps, or an inexperienced crew. It can also signal a roofer who isn’t properly insured or licensed. Compare bids on equal terms (same materials, same scope, same warranty) and weigh the total value.
How long does a typical roof replacement take?
One to three days for most homes, assuming decent weather and a straightforward layout. Steeper pitches, complex designs with multiple valleys and dormers, or surprise decking damage can push it longer. Your roofer should give you a timeline based on your specific roof, not a generic answer.
Is it worth getting a roof inspection before asking for replacement quotes?
Absolutely. An independent inspection, separate from a contractor trying to sell you a new roof, gives you an unbiased read on your roof’s condition. You might find out that targeted repairs can buy you another five to seven years. That’s worth knowing before you spend $15,000.
Can I negotiate the price with a roofer?
You can, but focus on value rather than just haggling the number down. Ask whether upgrading to a better shingle line fits your budget, whether they offer manufacturer rebates or financing, or whether scheduling during the off-season could lower the cost. A good roofer will work with you.