Why the Right Questions Can Save You Thousands
After helping people navigate hundreds of contractor hires, here’s what separates the good experiences from the nightmares: it almost always comes down to what you asked (or didn’t ask) before signing anything.
The pattern is painfully predictable. A homeowner gets three quotes, picks the cheapest one, and crosses their fingers. Three weeks later, the “licensed” contractor turns out to have no license. The $3,800 quote balloons to $7,200. The warranty they promised? Never put in writing.
Here’s the thing about hiring home service professionals: the qualified, honest ones welcome your questions. They expect them. The ones who dodge questions, get vague, or pressure you to sign fast? That’s all the information you need.
This guide is your master resource for hiring home service professional questions that actually protect you. We cover the 10 universal questions you should ask every single contractor, then break it down by trade (plumbing, roofing, HVAC, electrical, general contracting, painting, landscaping, moving, and pest control) with links to our detailed, trade-specific guides.
Bookmark this page. Print the checklist at the bottom. Use it every time you bring someone new into your home.
10 Questions to Ask Before Hiring Any Home Service Professional
These apply to every trade. Plumber, roofer, electrician, painter. Doesn’t matter. Think of these as your baseline. Skip them and you’re gambling.
1. Are you licensed and insured in this state?
This is non-negotiable. A valid license proves the professional has met your state’s minimum training and competency requirements. Insurance (both general liability and workers’ comp) protects you if someone gets hurt on your property or if the work causes damage to your home.
Ask for the license number and look it up yourself on your state’s licensing board website. Takes two minutes. Also request a certificate of insurance and confirm it’s current, not expired from six months ago.
Red flag: “I’m between renewals right now” means they’re not licensed. Move on.
2. How long have you been in business?
Experience matters, but context matters more. A company with 15 years in business has weathered recessions, supply chain problems, and the kind of project surprises that only teach you through repetition. That said, a newer company with strong references and a solid background can still be a great hire.
The sweet spot: at least 3-5 years in business, with specific experience on projects like yours. A roofer with 20 years of experience but who’s never done a flat roof isn’t the right fit for your flat roof.
3. Can you provide three references from recent jobs similar to mine?
Past performance is the single best predictor of what your experience will be. And the key word here is “similar.” References from a $2,000 bathroom remodel don’t tell you much about a $40,000 kitchen gut.
Here’s the part most people skip: Actually call the references. Ask if the work was done on time, on budget, and whether they’d hire this person again. If a contractor can’t or won’t provide references, that tells you everything.
4. Will you provide a detailed written estimate?
A verbal quote is worthless. It’s just words in the air. A written estimate protects both you and the contractor by documenting the scope of work, materials, timeline, and cost before anyone picks up a tool.
The estimate should itemize labor and materials separately. It should describe the work in specific terms: “replace 24 linear feet of copper pipe” not “fix plumbing issues.” Ask whether the estimate is free and, critically, what could cause the final price to change.
5. What’s your timeline for starting and completing this project?
A professional who’s booked out 3-4 weeks? That’s usually a good sign, because they’re in demand. A professional who can start tomorrow might be available for a reason.
Get specific dates, not “a couple of weeks.” Ask what could cause delays and how they’ll communicate schedule changes to you. A contractor who can’t give you even a rough timeline is either overbooked or disorganized, and neither one ends well for you.
6. What happens if something goes wrong or I’m not satisfied?
Even great professionals make mistakes. What matters is what happens next. You want to know their process for handling problems BEFORE a problem exists, not when you’re standing in your kitchen with water pouring through the ceiling.
A good answer includes a clear policy on redoing unsatisfactory work at no extra charge and a willingness to discuss issues openly. A defensive reaction to this question? That’s your answer.
7. Do you use subcontractors, or will your own crew do the work?
Not a trick question, and using subs isn’t automatically a problem. But you need to know who’s actually going to be in your home. Will the person you interviewed be the person doing the work? Or are they sending someone you’ve never met?
If they use subcontractors, confirm those subs carry their own insurance. Ask who your daily point of contact will be. And ask who’s responsible if the subcontractor’s work isn’t up to standard, because someone needs to be.
8. What permits are needed, and will you handle them?
Many home improvement projects require permits from your local building department. Work done without required permits can result in fines, void your homeowner’s insurance, and create serious headaches when you try to sell your home.
A reputable professional knows exactly which permits your project requires and handles the process themselves. Be very suspicious of anyone who suggests skipping permits to “save you money.” They’re not saving you anything. They’re transferring their risk to you.
Tip: You can call your local building department directly to verify what permits are needed. It’s free and takes five minutes.
9. What’s your payment schedule, and what forms of payment do you accept?
Payment terms tell you a lot. Legitimate professionals typically ask for a deposit of 10-30% with the balance due in stages or upon completion. That’s normal and reasonable.
What’s NOT normal: demanding full payment upfront, cash-only, or a deposit over 50%. These are classic red flags. Paying by check or credit card gives you a paper trail and potential dispute options if something goes wrong. Cash gives you nothing.
10. Do you offer a warranty or guarantee on your work?
A warranty means the professional stands behind what they did. Without one, you have zero recourse if the repair fails or the installation breaks down three months later.
Get the warranty in writing. Ask what it covers, how long it lasts, and what you need to do to keep it valid (some require annual maintenance, for example). Also ask about manufacturer warranties on any materials they install. Those are separate from the labor warranty, and you’ll want both.
Questions by Trade: Category-by-Category Guides
The 10 universal questions above are your starting point. Every trade has its own critical questions on top of those. Below, we cover the highlights for each type of home service professional, with links to our complete in-depth guides.
Plumbing
Plumbing problems range from a $150 dripping faucet to a $15,000 sewer line replacement. The stakes are high, because water damage is one of the most expensive types of home damage to repair, and it happens fast.
Key Questions to Ask a Plumber
Do you charge a flat rate or by the hour? Flat-rate pricing means no surprises. Hourly pricing can spiral, especially if the job gets complicated. Know which model you’re dealing with before they start.
What’s your diagnostic fee, and does it apply toward the repair? Most plumbers charge $75-150 just to show up and diagnose the problem. Good plumbers credit that fee toward the repair if you hire them. If they don’t, that’s not a dealbreaker, but it’s worth knowing upfront.
Can you explain the problem and give me options at different price points? A trustworthy plumber shows you the issue and presents solutions ranging from basic to premium. A shady one pushes the most expensive fix without mentioning alternatives.
Do you offer emergency or after-hours service, and what does it cost? Pipes don’t wait for business hours. Weekend and midnight rates can be 1.5x to 2x the standard rate. Know the number before you need it.
See our full guide: Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Plumber
Roofing
Your roof is your home’s first line of defense. A bad roofing job doesn’t just look bad. It leads to leaks, mold, structural rot, and tens of thousands in cascading damage. Roofing also attracts more storm-chasing scammers than almost any other trade.
Key Questions to Ask a Roofer
Will you do a full roof inspection before giving me a quote? Any roofer who gives you a price from the ground is guessing. A proper inspection means getting on the roof (or using drone technology) to assess the actual condition. No inspection, no trust.
What materials do you recommend for my home and climate? The right choice depends on your region, your home’s structure, your HOA rules, and your budget. A knowledgeable roofer explains the trade-offs between asphalt shingles, metal, tile, and other options, not just pushes whatever they have on the truck.
How do you handle hidden damage discovered mid-job? Roofers frequently find rotted decking or water damage once old shingles come off. Ask how they’ll communicate surprises and how pricing works for additional work. Get this process in writing before they tear anything off.
Are you certified by any roofing material manufacturers? Certifications like GAF Master Elite or CertainTeed SELECT ShingleMaster mean the roofer has met specific training and quality standards. These certifications also affect your material warranty coverage, sometimes dramatically.
See our full guide: Questions to Ask a Roofer Before Signing a Contract
HVAC (Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning)
Your HVAC system controls your home’s comfort year-round, and replacing it is a $5,000-$15,000 decision. The wrong system or a sloppy installation can cost you hundreds per year in wasted energy for the next 15 years.
Key Questions to Ask an HVAC Technician
Will you perform a Manual J load calculation to size the system for my home? This is the industry standard for determining the right system size. An HVAC system that’s too big short-cycles, wastes energy, and wears out faster. Too small and it never keeps up. A company that skips this step and just “eyeballs it” is cutting a major corner.
What SEER rating do you recommend, and what’s the real-world energy cost difference? Higher SEER means lower bills but higher upfront cost. Ask for a realistic comparison, not the manufacturer’s best-case scenario. In some climates, jumping from 16 SEER to 20 SEER doesn’t save enough to justify the price difference.
What does your maintenance plan include? Regular maintenance extends the life of your system and catches small problems before they become $3,000 emergencies. Ask what the plan covers, how often they’ll come out, and what it costs annually.
What brands do you install, and why those specifically? Some HVAC companies push one brand because they get the fattest margin on it, not because it’s the best fit. A trustworthy tech explains why they recommend a specific brand for your situation, and they should carry more than one option.
See our full guide: Questions to Ask Before Hiring an HVAC Technician
Electrical
Don’t cut corners on electrical work. Faulty wiring is a leading cause of house fires, roughly 46,000 per year in the U.S., according to the Electrical Safety Foundation. An unqualified electrician can put your family at genuine risk.
Key Questions to Ask an Electrician
What type of electrical license do you hold? Licensing varies by state. Some distinguish between journeyman and master electricians, and a master electrician has significantly more training. For complex work (panel upgrades, full rewires, or new construction), a master electrician is worth the premium.
Will the work meet the current National Electrical Code? The NEC updates every three years. Your electrician should be working to the latest standards, not the code from when your house was built in 1987.
Will you pull permits and arrange inspections? Electrical work almost always requires permits and inspections. This isn’t optional. Unpermitted electrical work is dangerous, can void your homeowner’s insurance, and will haunt you when you sell.
How do you handle existing wiring that’s not up to code? Older homes are full of surprises: knob-and-tube wiring, aluminum wiring, ungrounded outlets. Ask how they’ll handle these discoveries and what the cost implications look like before they’re wrist-deep in your walls.
See our full guide: Questions to Ask Before Hiring an Electrician
General Contractors
Kitchen remodel. Home addition. Basement finish. If your project involves multiple trades, you probably need a general contractor to coordinate everything. Choosing the wrong GC is one of the most expensive mistakes a homeowner can make, often costing tens of thousands of dollars and months of delays.
Key Questions to Ask a General Contractor
Can I see completed projects similar to mine? Photos and references from similar work are infinitely more valuable than a slick website. Ask for before-and-after photos. Better yet, ask if you can visit a completed project in person or talk to the homeowner.
How do you handle change orders? Change orders (modifications after work has started) are where budgets explode. A good GC has a clear, written change order process where you approve pricing before any extra work happens. A bad one does the work first and sends you the bill.
Who will manage my project day-to-day? The person selling you the project might not be the person running it. Find out who your daily point of contact will be, how often the GC personally visits the site, and how you’ll communicate (text, email, weekly meetings).
What’s your process for handling disputes? Miscommunication happens on big projects. It just does. Ask whether they have a structured way to resolve disagreements before things escalate to lawyers.
See our full guide: Questions to Ask a General Contractor Before Hiring
Painters
The difference between a paint job that lasts 8 years and one that peels within 12 months? Prep work and materials. That’s it. A quality paint job transforms your home. A cheap one just delays the problem.
Key Questions to Ask a House Painter
What prep work is included in your estimate? Sanding, priming, caulking, scraping, patching. This is where the real work happens. If the estimate doesn’t mention prep at all, ask specifically what’s included. A painter who skips prep is giving you a paint job that won’t last.
What brand and grade of paint will you use? There’s a massive quality gap between a $25/gallon budget paint and a $55/gallon premium. Ask which brand, which product line, and how many coats. A good painter recommends quality paint and explains why the extra cost pays for itself in durability.
How do you protect my furniture, floors, and fixtures? Paint splatters. It’s inevitable. Professional painters use drop cloths, plastic sheeting, and careful taping. If they’re vague about protection, your hardwood floors are going to pay the price.
See our full guide: Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Painter
Landscapers
Landscaping is an investment in curb appeal and property value. A well-designed landscape can add 5-12% to your home’s value. But it can also go sideways fast. Dead plants, poor drainage, erosion that sends water toward your foundation instead of away from it.
Key Questions to Ask a Landscaper
Do you have experience with plants and conditions specific to my area? Climate, soil type, sun exposure, and local pest pressure all determine what thrives in your yard. A landscaper who knows your zone will recommend plants that actually survive past September. One who doesn’t will sell you whatever looks good at the nursery.
Does your quote include ongoing maintenance, or is that separate? Some landscapers include a maintenance period (watering new plantings, checking for issues) in their price. Others hand you the project and disappear. Know what you’re paying for.
How do you handle drainage and grading? Poor drainage leads to standing water, foundation problems, mosquito breeding grounds, and dead plants. This isn’t an afterthought. Ask specifically how they plan to manage water flow on your property.
See our full guide: Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Landscaper
Movers
Moving is stressful enough without dealing with broken furniture, surprise fees, or a company that holds your belongings hostage until you pay an inflated bill. The moving industry has more bad actors than most people realize.
Key Questions to Ask a Moving Company
Are you licensed with the FMCSA (for interstate moves) or your state’s regulatory body? Legitimate movers have a USDOT number for interstate moves. You can verify it on the FMCSA website in under a minute. If they can’t provide one, stop the conversation.
What’s your claims process for lost or damaged items? Breakage happens. What separates legitimate movers from the rest is how they handle it. Ask about their liability coverage options (released value vs. full value protection) and the claims process. Get it in writing.
Is the estimate binding or non-binding? A binding estimate locks the price. A non-binding estimate is a guess, and your final bill could be dramatically higher. Always push for a binding or “not-to-exceed” estimate based on an in-home or video survey, not a phone quote.
What extra fees should I know about? Stairs, long carries, heavy items, elevator charges, shuttle trucks if a full-size truck can’t reach your home. Hidden fees are the #1 complaint in the moving industry. Ask about every possible surcharge before you sign anything.
See our full guide: Questions to Ask Before Hiring Movers
Pest Control
Pest problems affect your health, damage your home’s structure, and make daily life miserable. The chemicals involved require careful handling. You want someone who’ll solve the problem safely and effectively, not someone who just sprays and prays.
Key Questions to Ask a Pest Control Company
What pest did you identify, and how severe is the infestation? A real professional inspects your home and identifies the exact pest before recommending treatment. Be cautious of anyone who prescribes a solution before doing a thorough inspection. “You’ve got bugs, we’ll spray” is not a diagnosis.
What treatment methods do you use, and are they safe for my kids and pets? Ask about the specific chemicals or methods they’ll use, how long you need to stay out of treated areas, and what precautions you should take. A responsible company explains this proactively. You shouldn’t have to pry it out of them.
Do you guarantee results, and what happens if the pests come back? Pest control often requires follow-up treatments. Ask if their guarantee includes free return visits if the problem isn’t resolved. Most reputable companies offer at least a 30-day guarantee with re-treatment at no cost.
See our full guide: Questions to Ask a Pest Control Company
How to Verify a Contractor’s Credentials
Asking the right questions is step one. Verifying the answers is step two. Don’t skip step two.
Check Their License
Every state maintains a database of licensed contractors. Search for “[your state] contractor license lookup,” enter their name or license number, and confirm the license is active. Not expired. Not revoked. Not suspended. Active. This takes less time than making a cup of coffee.
Verify Their Insurance
Ask for a certificate of insurance (COI) and call the insurance company directly to confirm the policy is current. You’re looking for two things: general liability insurance (covers damage to your property) and workers’ compensation (covers injuries to their employees on your property). Without both, you’re exposed.
Look Up Their BBB Record
Check the company’s profile at bbb.org. Pay attention to the number and nature of complaints, and whether the company actually responded to them. A few complaints over many years isn’t alarming, since every business has unhappy customers. A pattern of unresolved complaints is.
Read Online Reviews Strategically
Reviews are useful, but you need to read them with a critical eye:
- Look at patterns, not outliers. One bad review among 200 good ones doesn’t mean much. The same complaint showing up 15 times does.
- Read the negative reviews first. Are people complaining about quality? Communication? Pricing surprises? Repeated themes are the signal.
- Check multiple platforms. Google, Yelp, Angi, and the BBB. Great Google reviews but terrible BBB complaints? That’s a warning sign.
- Watch for fakes. Overly generic five-star reviews posted in clusters, using eerily similar language? Probably not real customers.
Check for Legal History
Search your local court records for lawsuits involving the contractor. Many states also let you check for complaints filed with the attorney general’s office or consumer protection division. It takes a few minutes and can save you from a documented problem.
Understanding Estimates and Contracts
Getting a fair deal starts with understanding what you’re signing. Most homeowners don’t read their contracts carefully. Don’t be most homeowners.
Estimates: What to Expect
- Get at least three estimates for any project over $500. Three gives you a realistic range and helps you spot outliers in both directions.
- Make sure estimates cover the same scope. If one quote is $4,000 less than the others, it’s probably leaving something out. Cheaper isn’t better when the scope is different.
- Ask what’s NOT included. Cleanup? Disposal of old materials? Permits? These can add hundreds or thousands to your bill if you weren’t expecting them.
Contracts: What Should Be In Yours
Never start a project without a written contract. Here’s what a solid one includes:
- Detailed scope of work: exactly what will be done, step by step
- Materials to be used: specific brands, models, and quantities
- Total cost and payment schedule: deposit amount and when each payment is due
- Start and completion dates: with consequences for significant delays
- Permit responsibilities: who pulls them and who pays for them
- Change order process: how modifications are priced and approved
- Warranty information: what’s covered, for how long, and how to make a claim
- Dispute resolution: mediation, arbitration, or other resolution methods
- Cancellation policy: your right to cancel and any associated fees
Red Flags in Estimates and Contracts
Walk away if you see:
- An estimate dramatically lower than all others (they’ll make it up in change orders)
- Vague descriptions like “fix as needed” or “various repairs”
- No mention of permits on a project that clearly needs them
- High-pressure tactics (“this price is only good today”)
- A demand for full payment before work begins
- No written warranty
- A “contract” that’s one paragraph long
Your Master Checklist: Print This and Use It Every Time
Use this checklist every time you’re hiring a home service professional. Check off each item as you go.
Before You Make the Call
- Identified what type of professional I need
- Checked my state’s licensing board website
- Set a realistic budget range for the project
- Made a list of at least three professionals to contact
Credentials and Background
- Are you licensed in this state? (Verify the license number yourself)
- Are you insured? (Request and verify certificate of insurance)
- How long have you been in business?
- Can you provide three references from similar recent jobs?
Scope and Pricing
- Will you provide a detailed written estimate?
- What’s included and what’s not?
- What’s your payment schedule?
- What forms of payment do you accept?
- How do you handle unexpected costs or scope changes?
Timeline and Process
- When can you start?
- How long will the project take?
- Who will be on-site doing the work?
- Do you use subcontractors?
- What permits are required, and will you handle them?
Guarantees and Follow-Up
- Do you offer a warranty or guarantee?
- What happens if I’m not satisfied with the work?
- What does the warranty cover, and how long does it last?
- How do I reach you after the project is complete?
Final Steps Before Signing
- Read the entire contract before signing
- Confirmed the contract matches the estimate
- Verified license and insurance independently
- Called at least one reference
- Checked online reviews on at least two platforms
- Kept copies of all documents and communications
Helpful Tools and Resources
These free tools make it easier to verify credentials, check reputations, and avoid common scams, no matter what trade you’re hiring for.
- BBB.org (Better Business Bureau): Look up any company’s complaint history, rating, and whether they’ve responded to customer disputes. A solid first stop before signing anything.
- State Licensing Board Lookups: Every state maintains a searchable database of licensed contractors. Search for “[your state] contractor license lookup” to find yours. Verification takes less than two minutes and costs nothing.
- Angi (formerly Angie’s List) / HomeAdvisor: Read verified reviews, compare pricing estimates by project type, and check how long a company has been listed. Cross-reference with Google and BBB reviews for the most complete picture.
- FTC Home Improvement Scam Alerts: The Federal Trade Commission publishes up-to-date warnings about contractor scams, door-to-door fraud, and storm-chaser tactics. Worth a quick read before any major project.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many estimates should I get before hiring a home service professional?
Three is the minimum for any project over $500. That gives you a realistic range for your area and helps you spot prices that are suspiciously low or unreasonably high. Make sure each estimate covers the same scope of work, otherwise you’re comparing apples to oranges.
Should I always hire the cheapest option?
Almost never. The cheapest bid usually means lower-quality materials, less experienced workers, or corners being cut somewhere you can’t see. The best value is typically in the middle of the range: someone who charges a fair price, communicates well, has strong references, and stands behind their work. The cheapest contractor you hire twice is more expensive than the mid-range one you hire once.
What should I do if a contractor asks for full payment upfront?
Walk away. Full stop. Legitimate contractors ask for a deposit of 10-30% before starting, with the balance due in stages or upon completion. Paying everything upfront gives the contractor zero incentive to finish, and it leaves you with no leverage. This is one of the most common signs of a scam, and it’s how people lose thousands of dollars.
How can I tell if a contractor is actually licensed?
Search online for “[your state] contractor license lookup.” Enter the contractor’s name or license number. The state database will show you whether the license is active, what type of work it covers, and whether there are any complaints or disciplinary actions on file. Don’t take their word for it. Verify it yourself.
What’s the difference between a binding and non-binding estimate?
A binding estimate is a guaranteed price. The contractor commits to completing the work for the stated amount, even if complications arise. A non-binding estimate is an educated guess, and the final bill can be significantly higher. Always ask which type you’re getting. Push for binding when possible, especially for larger projects.
Do I need a written contract for small jobs?
Yes. Even a $500 job deserves a written agreement. It doesn’t need to be a 10-page legal document. A simple one-page agreement covering the work, the price, the timeline, and any warranty is enough. If a professional refuses to put anything in writing, that’s a red flag regardless of the job size.
What should I do if I’m unhappy with completed work?
Start by contacting the professional directly. Explain the issue calmly and specifically, and reference your contract and warranty. Most reputable professionals want to make it right, since their reputation depends on it. If they refuse, your options include filing a complaint with your state’s licensing board, contacting the BBB, leaving an honest review, or consulting a consumer protection attorney. Keep all documentation: photos, emails, texts, and your contract.
Start Your Search With Confidence
Hiring a home service professional doesn’t have to feel like a gamble. When you ask the right questions, verify the answers, and get everything in writing, you eliminate most of the risk. Not all of it (nothing does that), but most of it.
Use this guide as your starting point, then dive into our trade-specific guides for deeper coverage:
- Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Plumber
- Questions to Ask a Roofer Before Signing a Contract
- Questions to Ask Before Hiring an HVAC Technician
- Questions to Ask Before Hiring an Electrician
- Questions to Ask a General Contractor Before Hiring
- Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Painter
- Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Landscaper
- Questions to Ask Before Hiring Movers
- Questions to Ask a Pest Control Company
Your home is your biggest investment. Protect it by asking the right questions every single time.
Glossary of Home Service Terms
These terms come up across trades: plumbing, roofing, electrical, general contracting, you name it. Knowing them keeps you from nodding along when you should be asking follow-up questions.
Change Order: A written modification to the original contract after work has already started. It covers any change to the scope, materials, timeline, or price. Every change order should include the new cost and your written approval before the extra work happens. Without a formal change order process, your budget is a suggestion, not a limit.
Lien Waiver: A document signed by the contractor (and their subcontractors or suppliers) confirming they’ve been paid and waiving their right to place a lien on your property. Always collect lien waivers as payments are made, especially on large projects. If a subcontractor doesn’t get paid by your GC, they can legally put a lien on your home, even though you paid in full.
Scope of Work: The detailed written description of exactly what will be done, what materials will be used, and what the finished result should look like. A vague scope is the #1 reason projects go over budget. “Install new flooring” is not a scope. “Remove existing vinyl, prep subfloor, and install 800 sq ft of 3/4-inch oak hardwood with satin finish” is.
COI (Certificate of Insurance): A one-page document proving the contractor carries active insurance, typically general liability and workers’ compensation. Ask for this before work starts and verify it with the insurance company directly. An expired or forged COI leaves you personally liable for injuries or property damage.
Punch List: A list of small items that need to be completed, corrected, or touched up before a project is considered finished. Think scuffed paint, a crooked outlet cover, or a door that doesn’t latch properly. You and the contractor walk the project together, build the punch list, and the contractor addresses every item before final payment. Don’t make that last payment until the punch list is done.
Permit: An official authorization from your local building department allowing specific construction or renovation work. Permits exist to ensure work meets safety codes. Your contractor should handle the application, pay the fee, and schedule required inspections. Unpermitted work can result in fines, void your homeowner’s insurance, and create serious problems when you sell.
Code Compliance: Meeting the minimum standards set by local and national building codes for safety, structural integrity, and proper installation. Codes cover everything from how electrical wiring is run to how far a water heater must sit from combustible materials. Work that isn’t code-compliant can fail inspection, require costly rework, and create genuine safety hazards.
Load-Bearing Wall: A wall that supports the weight of the structure above it: the roof, upper floors, or both. Removing or modifying a load-bearing wall without proper engineering and permits can cause catastrophic structural damage. If any project involves moving or opening up a wall, your contractor should verify whether it’s load-bearing before touching it. This typically requires a structural engineer’s assessment.